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Scotland in May

My husband and I are planning a trip to Scotland in May 2027. The plan is to fly into Edinburgh, rent a car, and the next day start our journey to Glencoe, Portree, Inverness, and Stirling. We’ve been to Edinburgh before so we want to see other parts of Scotland this trip which is why we’re not spending any time in Edinburgh. We’re not really city people; we prefer smaller towns or villages, quaint shops, historic landmarks, cozy restaurants, and scenic beauty. Unfortunately, we won’t be able to do much this trip in terms of outdoor activities like hiking.

This is our proposed agenda:

Day 1 - arrive in Edinburgh
Day 2 - drive to Glencoe
Day 3 - drive to Portree
Day 4 - Portree
Day 5 - Portree
Day 6 - drive to Inverness
Day 7 - Loch Ness
Day 8 - Culloden
Day 9 - travel to Stirling
Day 10 - Stirling
Day 11 - drive to Edinburgh and return home

It might seem like we've alloted too much for travel time and we don’t like to schedule too much on travel days, but we will definitely be out and about on those days. We like to walk about our destination and get our bearings, stop in at the shops, enjoy a good meal. Does this seem doable? What places do you recommend to stay and eat at each stop? What are your must do/see activities?

Posted by
1706 posts

Are you planning to spend a whole day exploring Loch Ness, e.g. a boat trip or something like that? If you just want to see Loch Ness then you could do that on the way to Inverness from Portree. Indeed with a whole day allocated to getting from Portree to Inverness you could visit Fort Augustus where there are some interesting lock gates on the canal that joins Loch Ness, the take in the view of Loch Ness from the waterside in the village, before either approaching Inverness from the less busy side of Loch Ness or taking the main A82 road alongside the loch, maybe pausing at Urquhart Castle. You might even have time for a boat trip on the Loch.

Between Skye and Inverness you would also pass Eilean Donan Castle. You could pause at Dornie Community Centre, from where you get a great view (and photo) of the castle, without any parked cars of buses in the shot. You'll have seen the best side of the castle and won't need to pay the entrance fee to go inside what is a very cramped and rather disappointing castle.

It looks as though you are planning 3 nights in Skye and have decided to base yourself in Portree. What kind of accommodation are you looking for? Would you consider other locations in Skye? Portree is our 'capital' and largest village but the entire island is very scenic and you could also consider other locations. But it depends what type of place you are looking for and your budget.

When you say a 'good meal', do you mean fine dining? If so then Edinbane Lodge in Skye is fantastic - and they also have B&B rooms, which are lovely. Skye also has a brilliant 1 Michelin Star restaurant, called Lochbay. It's casual, serving a seafood tasting menu in a beautiful old fishing cottage right on the seafront at Lochbay on the Waternish Peninsula.

Are you planning to base yourself in Inverness also for 3 nights? If you are looking for a good hotel there then I'd recommend the AC Marriott, which is modern, well located on the river and has a car park as well as excellent breakfasts. We like the Black Isle Bar for their beers and pizzas (wood fired oven). It's convivial with shared tables and a good atmosphere.

Culloden won't take a whole day, but I'd recommend visiting Fort George and possibly going to Chanonry Point to hopefully see dolphins.

Hopefully this is of some use!
Jacqui

Posted by
2034 posts

Driving from Portree to Inverness, plot a route that goes through Duirinish (highland coos roam freely in the village), Plockton, Shieldaig, and then through Torridon. The scenery around Torridon is spectacular - we think it rivals Skye. The road is also less crowded. Your full day in Inverness you could drive along Loch Ness, stopping at Urquhart Castle, heading on to Fort Augustus, then driving back through Whitebridge to visit Culloden and Clava Cairns. That would give you another free day to fit into your trip. If this were our trip I would drive through Applecross and Fearnmore, then spend the extra night in the Torridon region. The Kelpies are an interesting stop near Edinburgh Airport if you have not already seen them.

Posted by
2 posts

Thanks for all the suggestions! I’ll definitely do my research and see what we can fit into the schedule.

Loch Ness and Culloden are just the highlights of the days in the Inverness area – I’m sure we’ll have time to check out other things like Urquhart Castle and Fort George, etc…

Yes, we will be 3 days in Skye (and the same for Inverness). We haven't booked anything in Portree so we're open to suggestions for alternatives. As for accommodations, we haven’t set a budget but the room is just a place to lay my head at the end of the day so we’re just looking for a clean, comfortable room with private bath. I think we’d like an inn or bed and breakfast best but we’ll consider all places, if you have any to suggest.

And thanks also for the route suggestion! We definitely want to meander through the villages and take in all the scenery. Especially the coos!

Posted by
1706 posts

Cynthia's suggestion is a good one, although the 'north road' as locals call it is certainly a lot busier than it used to be. It's the way locals go to Inverness because we generally need to get there fast (enough e.g. for hospital appointments or to pick up supplies) and the A82 along Loch Ness is very slow. You will earn the thanks of locals if you pull off the road to look at scenery and coos, rather than driving slowly. If I had a penny for every tourist I've had to pass driving very slowly, filming the scenery, coos, random buildings etc, I would be nearly as rich as the recently announced trillionaire.

Clean, comfortable and reasonably priced accommodation can be had at The Dunvegan (ask for a sea view). It's also an excellent 'fire kitchen' restaurant. There are a couple of other good places to eat in Dunvegan, The Old School and Isle of Spice (a wonderful new Indian restaurant run by the loveliest family - sited rather bizarrely at the local petrol station!).

In Portree there are numerous B&Bs, some with sea food, but Tianavaig House in Penifiler (just 10 minutes drive south of Portree) has 3 lovely rooms (2 with views across the sea back to Portree). Continental breakfast is provided. It's on AirBnB.

If you want to stay in a pub, then the Old Inn in Carbost might suit? It's near the Fairy Pools and Talisker distillery and has live music sessions from time to time.

Posted by
219 posts

Route from Inverness to Portree
I am traveling to Portree next May. I had planned on the "southern route", past Urquhart Castle, Ft Augustus and Eileen Donan Castle. Now I'm seeing recommendations for the "northern route" through the Toridon area. Which would you with local knowledge recommend? Thanks sue

Posted by
1706 posts

Sue, if you want to see the two castles you will need to do the southern route, but my personal preference for driving is the northern route. Less congested and I find the scenery more spectacular. But the drive up through Glen Shiel and along Loch Cluanie is pretty impressive