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Scotland 2024

Hi all, I'm in the early stages of planning a trip to Scotland in 2024, probably in late August/early September (May is also a possibility, but I have grown to love fall travel as a way to end the summer). This will be a solo trip, 10 days on the ground, and I'm not planning to rent a car (both for budget reasons and the fact that I'm not comfortable driving on the opposite side of the road).

Ideas I have so far are about 3 days in Edinburgh (with one of those as a day trip to Stirling Castle), and the Rabbie's five day tour to Mull, Iona and the Isle of Skye. I'm a history/literature aficionado (English Lit major in college), but this particular trip I'm more interested in getting out in nature and experiencing the "wildness" of the Scottish landscape. The spirituality of Iona also is a draw for me, hence why I'm interested in that particular Rabbie's tour.

A few questions as I'm in the early stages of dreaming:

If you've been on a Rabbie's tour, what was your experience? Did you get much chance to get out of the bus and see things on your own? I'll be 36 at the time of the trip, so I'm generally beyond the budget backpacker mindset, but would hope to connect with others at least somewhat close to my age.
With two more days to fill along with Edinburgh and a guided tour, what are your recommendations to fill the time? I love the thought of hiking in the Cairngorms, but I'm not sure if it's too far, unless I combined that with Stirling (e.g. starting in Edinburgh for a few nights, head up to Stirling and into the Cairngorms from there, then back down to Edinburgh for the Rabbie's tour)
Without a car, is there any benefit to trying to piece together Mull/Iona and the Isle of Skye on my own? While I'm perfectly comfortable and capable of traveling around 100% solo, given my limited time, the tour seemed like a good way to connect those more remote spots.
Thanks for any insights at this very early stage!

Posted by
1745 posts

I haven't done a Rabbie's tour, so I can't comment on that.

I did some hiking both in Cairngorms and in Perthshire (as well as elsewhere in Scotland -- I was there for five weeks), and my favorite hikes were around Pitlochry and Dunkeld. As an English lit aficionado, you might enjoy seeing Birnham Wood, just outside Dunkeld. That's also closer than Cairngorms. Also right on the train line. (Cairngorms is best with a car I think.)

Check out WalkHighlands.co.uk to see which hikes sound most interesting to you. The ones I did (all easy) were these:

https://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/perthshire/linn-of-tummel.shtml

https://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/perthshire/salmon-ladder.shtml

https://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/perthshire/birnam.shtml

https://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/perthshire/larches.shtml

Posted by
1450 posts

Be aware that accommodations are booked additionally and paid separately from Rabbies Tour price. This is explained on their site.

Posted by
113 posts

Kathleen thanks! I did see that on their site :-)

Posted by
27122 posts

Edinburgh hotel rates go up a great deal during August because of the Edinburgh Festival and the Fringe Festival. I haven't been able to find the festival dates for 2024, but they end on August 27 and 28 this year.

Posted by
6323 posts

Linnae, I would definitely go for the tour. It would be hard to do Mull and Iona without a car. Bus transport is not always readily available so you would be doing a lot of waiting. And it's even worse on Skye. I think a Rabbies tour sounds ideal.

Here are some reviews and comments about that particular Rabbies tour that might be helpful:
https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/trip-reports/fell-in-love-with-the-scottish-highlands-skye
https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/scotland/tours-from-edinborough

And one from TA: https://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUserReviews-g186525-d654641-r280980623-Rabbie_s-Edinburgh_Scotland.html

Posted by
113 posts

Acraven, good tip! I'd probably be looking at dates at the very end of or just after the festival in August into September-hopefully aligning with Labor Day in the US to take advantage of at least one paid federal holiday and reduce the PTO days from my own bank I'd have to use :-D

Posted by
4085 posts

In the overall scheme of things, a 5 day tour isn’t a bad idea, but you can do this on your own solo if you want. You could take a West Coach Motors tour from Oban to Mull and Iona - it gives you a bit more freedom with timings. Then, if you wanted to do a bit more on your own, you could leave the tour at the ferry and catch the bus to Tobermory for overnight. Then it’s a long but interesting (and not difficult) day of public transportation from Tobermory to Armadale on Skye. I think Lane picked up some really great-looking tours (and someone else I can’t remember) locally on Skye?

Nothing wrong with the 5 day Rabbies Tour at all - just depends on how you want to go about it. You lose part of the guiding advantage but most likely save money.

Posted by
1120 posts

Just a note on weather up here on Skye. Bearing in mind that Scottish weather is at best unpredictable and often somewhat damp, I'd recommend May over August anytime. August seems to often be very wet and in fact the last few days would bear that out in bucket loads of absolutely torrential rain. May, while sometimes showery is a lovely month with spring flowers, lambs and often a fair bit of sun. Later in September can also be good, but August would not be my choice.

Rabbies get good reviews.

Jacqui (Skyegirl)

Posted by
5764 posts

By public transportation from Tobermory to Armadale you would end up coming back to Oban eventually en route, as there simply isn't another way. You can't go over from Tobermory to Kilchoan as there isn't a ferry early enough to meet the daily bus.
Unless by chance your trip coincided with the annual repositioning journey of Paddle Steamer Waverley from Oban and Mull to Armadale sometime in late May/early June.
Without a car though the Armadale route to Skye is quite tricky, once on Skye.
The bridge route is far better.

Posted by
15016 posts

I've taken a few one day tours with Rabbies and will take more in the future.

You get plenty of time off the van. The driver/guides are very knowledgable and friendly.

I am even looking at a couple of their multi-day tours because you get commentary from the guide, can sit back and enjoy the view, and will able to see more in the same amount of time as trying to do it on your own.

And I'm usually an independent traveler.

Posted by
4085 posts

isn31c, thank you. I did this route July 2022 (ferry Tobermory - Kilchoan, bus to Fort William, train to Mallaig, and ferry to Armadale). Sounds long and was an early start but went without a hitch. I wasn’t aware the times/routes had changed as the 7:20 ferry and 7:56 bus is still on the Calmac and Shiel bus websites for this summer.

Posted by
5764 posts

That ferry is the least of it now, if it's not cancelled due to weather or on a tidal timetable, or broken down.
Yes Texas travel mom is right in principle but it is now really hard work.
Hinging a whole travel day on a once a day connection, starting with a ferry is high risk.
The bus from Kilchoan currently has an indeterminate arrival time in Fort William, due to diverting round the Loch owing to the saga of the broken down Corran ferries, now many months old.
When you do get to Armadale the bus timetable is terrible now. You can only connect on sensibly on a non schoolday. On a school day you can only get to Broadford, then have a 2 hour wait for a bus which has come from Fort Wiliam over the bridge!!
For the same reason Armadale is no longer a place to tour the island from by bus due to the very bad current service.

Because of the Skye bus service, or lack of it, I would take a very deep breath before doing it in 2023 and I do lots of mad, unhinged things by public transit, including my current trip.
On island you would now realistically need a car or some kind of tour arrangement if taking that route.

Really the Rabbies 5 day tour sounds a very good option.The

By transit now I would take the Knoydart mail boat trip or a small isles round trip from Mallaig in the afternoon, stay in Mallaig overnight then an early ferry next day for the single Armadale to Portree bus.
That also covers you for if you had to divert via Oban due to a ferry issue.

Posted by
113 posts

It sounds like the tour is the way to go! Thanks for the insights! Now I need to figure out how out the best way tp fill up the extra few days besides that and the days in Edinburgh. Time to dig more into the guidebooks!