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Nine Nights is all we have.

Hello great and wonderful Rick Steves Forum! As you can see from the title I have nine nights and nine nights only to showcase a large and wonderful country to my parents. My husband and I went to Scotland in 2017 and had a glorious 18 days. We did the loop starting in Edinburgh, Stirling, Aviemore, Inverness, Portree, Glencoe, back to Edinburgh. We had planned on coming back in 2020 to visit other spots and actually had airline tickets rescheduled twice but alas we are
ended up scrapping it after two cancellations due to covid. My parents had expressed interest in a Scotland trip for some time now and I had worked out a perfect 14 night itinerary allowing us some time in new spots for my husband and I along with the traditional ones. But alas it is not to be. My parents have decided they no longer want to be gone any longer than 10 nights on trips so that is what I have, including the flight that gives me 9 nights mid May. Alas I am slightly stressed pairing this down.

My parents did visit Brodie Castle as well as Urquhart Castle off a cruise ship two years ago and have stated that they feel no need to return to Inverness. While I feel there are certainly other things to see such as Culloden and Fort George I talked to my husband and we agreed on skipping it.

There will be no hill walking this trip. My parents are in their mid 70’s and while they are healthy, hiking is not for them. They both enjoy history and scenery however. Mom has mentioned Skye but it is a long way up there so that has me hesitant. They are not big city people but I am insisting on at least two nights in Edinburgh as I think my parents would enjoy the castle and the museums there.

My husband is very proficient in driving on the left as he lived in the Bahamas for a time. I was thinking of bookending 2 nights Edinburgh with 2 nights Stirling. Our flight on departure doesn’t leave until 3pm.

That only leaves us with 5 nights only in between. Any thoughts on where you would spend them? I welcome any feedback and other suggestions. Open to other bases that might be more central as well, especially if it would keep us from having to move. We would obviously spend time sightseeing between the bases. Here are a few thoughts we had.

Edinburgh 2N
Ballater 2N
Portree 3N
Stirling 2 N

Edinburgh 2N
Oban 3N
Fort William 2
Stirling 2

Looking forward to your suggestions!

Posted by
9905 posts

Stirling is easily doable as a day trip from Edinburgh, and would save you from traveling and spending 2 nights there. I don't think you really need 2 nights. If it were me, I would opt for 3 nights in Edinburgh, which would give you time to explore the city and take a day trip to Stirling (and Stirling Castle).

Posted by
738 posts

In doing research for our upcoming short trip, we decided to kind of stay in the southern part of Scotland (with a long day trip with Rabbies to the Highlands) but are using only public transportation, so you have more flexibility. In addition to taking a day trip to Stirling, have you considered the Borders region as a day trip or a couple of nights there? So much history and beautiful landscapes. You could include the coast as well-North Berwick, Dunbar- and do a circular route back up from the Borders through there. Just a thought.

Posted by
243 posts

Mardee - Yes! I would agree with a day trip to Stirling if all we were doing was Stirling. We would use it has a base to visit Culross, Doune, Falkirk, and whatever else we could fit in. We would be using it as a stopping point from Skye or wherever else we were coming from which would take most of the day so in reality would have only one full day there.

Posted by
928 posts

Why Ballater? This is the outlier. What are you hoping to see and do in the area?

If mom wants Skye and if this is likely her only chance, I would find a way.

  • 2 nts Edinburgh
  • 1 nt Alberfeldy or Pitlochry (to break up drive)
  • 3 nts Skye
  • 2 nts Glencoe (Glen Etive drive) or Oban (2 or 3 Island tour or Kilmartin Glen) via Armadale-Maillig ferry
  • 1 nt Stirling

All scenic, no backtracking.

Have you thought of sending your parents home and you and your husband stay an additional week?

Posted by
243 posts

Hi Jeanm-

Great question regarding Ballarter. Balmoral is now offering limited tours May- July that go through more of the palace than before. It was of interest. My husband and I spent several hours in Pitlochry on our way to Aviemore in 2017 so we were looking for something different. That area also offers other castles that may be fun to see. It was just a thought of doing something different. We all love history and royal history so now that more of the house can be viewed we thought it might be a neat thing to add and a new location to visit for my husband and I seeing as we have been to so many of the hot spots before. My husband and I will return someday for sure but we will be traveling home with my parents this trip and are hoping to schedule a hiking trip to Switzerland in the fall.

Posted by
928 posts

For royal connections have you visited Glamis Castle, childhood home of the late Queen Mother? They have an excellent tour. It's about halfway between Edinburgh and Ballater.

Any interest in staying in a castle? Can everyone climb stairs?

Leslie Castle in Aberdeenshire is a guesthouse now. It's about an hour from Ballater, in the heart of castle country.

On the other side of the country, we spent 2 nights at Barcaldine Castle, about 20 minutes outside of Oban in 2023.

Posted by
243 posts

Jeanm - Yes everyone can do stairs! I am sure a castle stay would add some fun. We will be sure to check them out. Thanks for the suggestions!

Posted by
291 posts

Ballater is not a bad choice and there's plenty to see and do in the area. The scenery is not as dramatic as that which is on the west coast but is attractive in its own right and there are enough gentle walks around and about for those who would like a leg stretch but not much more.

Ballater and nearby Braemar are pretty highland villages with independent shops for browsing and coffee shops and eateries when you need a break.

Braemar Castle reopened last year after a £1.6 million restoration and is the only community run castle in Scotland and worth a visit if you have time

www.braemarcastle.co.uk

As for Balmoral if the inside tours are of interest then keep a close eye on the castle website and book tickets as soon as they go on sale because they sell out quickly. Please be sure of what you are buying because I've heard of people paying for general entry tickets mistaking them for interior tour tickets, which is not what anyone wants to happen.

Nearby Crathie Kirk where the royal family have worshipped since the time of Queen Victoria has been closed to the public for the last few years. I understand the elders of the kirk would like to reopen it to visitors but for one reason or another this has not happened. At the moment all you can do is walk up to the building and sit on one of the benches outside and admire the view from there. Perhaps by next May the situation will have changed and entry will be possible.

Posted by
10015 posts

The Balmoral Estate war memorial is worth seeing, as it features a number of swastikas. No one was to know in 1922, after WW1, when the memorial was built, as to what a swastika would come to represent. It is used in its far older meaning as a symbol for the sun in Sanskrit- meaning well being, good fortune or luck.

Posted by
243 posts

Thank you sownack & isn31c- Very helpful!! If we end up over that way your insights will be very helpful. I think they would enjoy all you have mentioned. At this point I am about to tell my parents that they can choose one side of the country or the other!!

Posted by
243 posts

Trying not over do it. I am thinking we need to choose east or west. I called my parents this morning and they both said they didn’t have a preference. Just said to pick some spots with the prettiest scenery and that they wanted some castles. Dad mentioned something about Brave Heart in the background over my mother stating she really wasn’t fussed where we went. My head hurts.

Thoughts on:

A: Edinburgh 2
Fort William 2
Portree 3
Stirling 2

Another thought would be

B:Edinburgh 2
Oban 2
Portree 3
Stirling 2

The trip to Mull is so weather dependent it had me leaning towards the Fort William Glencoe area given we will be heading to Skye. Although my parents do not hike at all so that will limit us there but there are some nice drives etc we could do with a full day there.

Given my parents interest in history and the possibility of day trips from Stirling I have also contemplated spending more time there.

C Edinburgh 2
Fort William/Glencoe 1
Portree 3
Stirling area 3

And finally if we did an east focused trip I was thinking this.

D. Edinburgh 2
St Andrews 2
Ballater or somewhere in Aberdeenshire 3
Stirling 2

If you were taking people for their one and only trip to Scotland where would you go? I am trying to get things settled today so I really appreciate your feedback!

Posted by
928 posts

If castles, Braveheart and an island experience are high on the list:

  • 2 nts Edinburgh
  • 3 nts Royal Deeside for castles
  • 3 nts Oban for island tour, Kilmartin Glen
  • 1 nt Stirling via Callander & Trossachs or Inverary & Loch Lomond

The drive from Ballater to the west coast will be a full day, but can be broken up with stops for spectacular scenic views and lunch. Ben Nevis and Glencoe Valley will give you Braveheart connections

Driving from Stirling to the airport, stop at Dunfermline Abbey for more William Wallace/Braveheart. Your then about 1/2 hour to the airport.

Glencoe Valley is beautiful. Ft. William itself holds no appeal to me.

If it is a one and only Scotland trip I would not ignore the Highlands and Scottish lochs.

Posted by
10015 posts

Scotland is so big that you can't see all of it on one trip, so you have to be selective. Before considering the North Isles or the Outer Hebrides it is further from the English border to John o' Groats than it is from London to the border.
As you are going in May weather is unlikely to be a major issue in reaching Mull/Iona or any other island.
You've been to Skye and Glencoe before so I favour itinerary D, but adding Perth and Scone Palace.

I am however pleased to see someone giving Stirling two nights- the time it deserves.

What you could do is to fly into Aberdeen by connection in Europe, then working south to Edinburgh. I'm not sure why St Andrews needs 2 nights. That could be substituted with one of the Fife fishing villages.

If you were trying to fit in an island you could visit Islay by flying there from Glasgow, and local car rental.
But I think that is over extending yourself.
I agree East or West is better. As you've done west before then maybe East is better this time.

Posted by
243 posts

isn31c- Thank you for your feedback. St Andrews has two nights so we could take a day and visit the fishing villages along the coast. I do not expect to rush to St Andrews and would stop to sightsee on the way there so would really only have a day and a half with two nights. I am trying to not have one night stays if possible. As far as exactly where we would base it is questionable. I would not be opposed to outside the city center. My husband knows a family that owns a gin distillery there so it was on the table as a possibility. Flights are already booked in and out of Edinburgh from our home airport.