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Posted by
7366 posts

Thank you for the story. Looks like lots of worthwhile places to visit are present, and will be forthcoming. The Britannia is certainly great to visit, too. I will say that we did a hit-and-run, taking the bus from Edinburgh to Leith and the mall by the harbor, but after touring the former Royal Yacht, and a quick tour of the mall, we got back on the bus and returned to be Edinburgh - “parachuting,” as the article suggested. A future trip would benefit from a longer visit to Leith.

Posted by
5807 posts

I was there yesterday exploring the new tram route.
It's always been a bit of an undiscovered part of Edinburgh, but the associated street realm works have really smartened up Leith and made it so much more attractive.
The Guardian might have mentioned that York Place tram stop no longer exists (just the ghosts of the platforms)- that stop has been relocated a block or so away and is called Picardy Place now.
Unlike in many other cities the trams don't get priority at traffic signals at intersections. So even on Day 2 of operations with lots of staff everywhere, the nominally 8 minute service gets odd bunching and gaps.
But it really is a great way to get down to Leith- far faster than any of the 5 bus routes.
At the Ocean Terminal the tram stops right outside the Mall doors, it is worth getting off for a few minutes at the previous stop- Port of Leith. There you get a far better feeling of the layout of the Port (still very much a working port). You are also steps away from The Fingal- the former Northern Lighthouse Board Tender which is now a luxury floating hotel, and gets rave reviews.
It's a shame that the Guardian didn't mention that the final stop, one beyond the Ocean Terminal, is Newhaven. This is a former fishing town with a rich history of it's own. It is also a tender port for smaller cruise ships (next one due in on Sunday) and there is a Premier Inn down there beside the former lighthouse- I have stayed there before now. Bus #11 from the City Centre stops right outside the PI, whereas it is a few minutes walk from the tram stop.
There is a 24 point self guided walking tour you can download by QR code on site. The centre piece of the harbour is the former Fishmarket. That is now Restaurants and a Fishmonger- the latter sells fish which have been landed in the harbour about 10 metres away. I saw that happening yesterday.
I didn't note the name down, but across the street is a Bistro. I would have to say that yesterday when I looked at their menu I was salivating at it, and extremely keen prices.
It's not often I look at a menu and think 'wow'.
If the food is as good as the menu that would be a treat. I was there on a day trip so that wasn't on the cards.

If arriving into EDI early in the morning it would be worth staying on the airport tram and going down to Leith or Newhaven for breakfast, and definitely worth thinking of for evening dining.

I actually did a circular route yesterday, continuing to the Airport on the Skylink 200 from Ocean Terminal, then tram back into the city from the Airport, then to St Giles'. That was a last minute choice as I was meant to take #35 from OT direct to Holyrood House and then on to the National Museum of Scotland.
I was pleasantly surprised at how relatively quiet the Royal Mile was, after recent reports of the crowds.

Posted by
3768 posts

Cyn, you're welcome! Glad you enjoyed this article. This gives us some great ideas for exploring Leith.

isn31c, thanks for sharing your additional information and on-the-ground experience.
I will certainly be retracing your footsteps and looking for some of the restaurants, cafes, hotels mentioned.
That Premier Inn sounds great.
I did look at the links for food mentioned in the article, and in my opinion, the best looking ones were:

Polentoni, an Italian deli, at 38 Easter St. (Seafood featured):
https://www.facebook.com/polentonideli/?locale=en_GB
and
The Sicilian Pastry Shop, in business since 1979.
14-16 Albert Street.
Traditional Sicilian cannoli's, rum baba's, Italian cakes & pastries. Family Business.
https://www.thesicilianpastryshoplimited.co.uk/
The Large Strawberry Tart looks fabulous.
https://www.thesicilianpastryshoplimited.co.uk/pasticcini--individual-cakes-3-c.asp

We will be in Edinburgh and Leith in the fall.
Looking forward to having a new area to explore.