I was there yesterday exploring the new tram route.
It's always been a bit of an undiscovered part of Edinburgh, but the associated street realm works have really smartened up Leith and made it so much more attractive.
The Guardian might have mentioned that York Place tram stop no longer exists (just the ghosts of the platforms)- that stop has been relocated a block or so away and is called Picardy Place now.
Unlike in many other cities the trams don't get priority at traffic signals at intersections. So even on Day 2 of operations with lots of staff everywhere, the nominally 8 minute service gets odd bunching and gaps.
But it really is a great way to get down to Leith- far faster than any of the 5 bus routes.
At the Ocean Terminal the tram stops right outside the Mall doors, it is worth getting off for a few minutes at the previous stop- Port of Leith. There you get a far better feeling of the layout of the Port (still very much a working port). You are also steps away from The Fingal- the former Northern Lighthouse Board Tender which is now a luxury floating hotel, and gets rave reviews.
It's a shame that the Guardian didn't mention that the final stop, one beyond the Ocean Terminal, is Newhaven. This is a former fishing town with a rich history of it's own. It is also a tender port for smaller cruise ships (next one due in on Sunday) and there is a Premier Inn down there beside the former lighthouse- I have stayed there before now. Bus #11 from the City Centre stops right outside the PI, whereas it is a few minutes walk from the tram stop.
There is a 24 point self guided walking tour you can download by QR code on site. The centre piece of the harbour is the former Fishmarket. That is now Restaurants and a Fishmonger- the latter sells fish which have been landed in the harbour about 10 metres away. I saw that happening yesterday.
I didn't note the name down, but across the street is a Bistro. I would have to say that yesterday when I looked at their menu I was salivating at it, and extremely keen prices.
It's not often I look at a menu and think 'wow'.
If the food is as good as the menu that would be a treat. I was there on a day trip so that wasn't on the cards.
If arriving into EDI early in the morning it would be worth staying on the airport tram and going down to Leith or Newhaven for breakfast, and definitely worth thinking of for evening dining.
I actually did a circular route yesterday, continuing to the Airport on the Skylink 200 from Ocean Terminal, then tram back into the city from the Airport, then to St Giles'. That was a last minute choice as I was meant to take #35 from OT direct to Holyrood House and then on to the National Museum of Scotland.
I was pleasantly surprised at how relatively quiet the Royal Mile was, after recent reports of the crowds.