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New plan: Small Isles via Elgol or Raasay with our new found time on Skye?

Off the back of my last post, I've talked my sister out of watching the Jacobite cross the Glenfinnan Viaduct (she's agreed arriving 2 hours early to see the train cross for 2 minutes is a bit overkill) so instead we will head from Glencoe in the morning to Mallaig and hop on the morning ferry to arrive on Skye around 10/11am.

The caveat is she wants to do one of the speed rib boat tours from Skye so need to work that into the plans for the day.

There are 2 options I've looked at and would appreciate any input as to which to pick!

  1. Elgol

We'd arrive in Elgol around midday for the Aquaxplore sailing to Canna, Rum and Soay. I understand it's the best trip they offer to see wildlife so not necessarily a must for us as we'll have done wildlife tours by boat and vehicle just days prior in Mull but understand the scenery is phenomenal (thanks @ScotlandMac!) and it's a lovely day out. We'd spend some time in Elgol afterward before making our way to Portree.

  1. Raasay

This would be a bit more jam packed but could be marvellous. We'd head straight to Raasay upon arriving in Armadale and have lunch and potter around for a bit. Where it picks up is that we'd do a rib tour around the Sound of Raasay returning at 4:30pm followed by a distillery tour at 5pm which I'm told will finish up with enough time for us to catch the 6:05pm ferry. It's a bit chockers but I understand the tours are both so close in proximity it shouldn't be an issue going from one to the other within the time we'd be working within.

Any advice as to which to pick? 

If we go with #1 for the Elgol option, does anyone know how long we can expect the drive to be from the Armadale ferry in June? Google says it's just under an hour but mindful things can move slowly on Skye. The boat trip departs at 12:30pm so we'd want to be at Elgol by 12:10/12:15pm at the absolute latest so wondering if we chance the 10:15am ferry arriving at 11:00am or if we're better off with much more of a time buffer by taking the 9:30am ferry.

Posted by
8684 posts

Personally, if heading for Elgol, I wouldn't want to be on the 2nd ferry.
If it's a bit late or you encounter something slow moving on the road you are snookered. Also, having spent £82 on the boat trip what happens if the Armadale ferry is cancelled by weather?
At least with Raasay you have buffer time to divert via the bridge If need be.

If you went for raasay on the 2nd ferry you could even see the morning westbound diesel train at Glenfinnan at 0848, when parking is easy

Personally Elgol would give me too much anxiety. Too much can go wrong. YMMV.

Posted by
44 posts

@isn31c With the Raasay plans, do you think what we'd have planned for the afternoon would be too ambitious? My understanding is that because everything is in close proximity it should be feasible but would appreciate a sense check!

Posted by
1562 posts

Hi, Victoria,

I'm with isn31c on this one. First of all, on your initial post, you said that you're coming from Glencoe. If that's still the case, you have quite a drive just to get to Mallaig. You'd be looking at the better part of 90 minutes, and don't forget that you have to arrive 30 minutes before the ferry departure time, otherwise you'd stand a chance of losing your spot on the ferry. If the ferry is not sailing due to weather, there is a big sign on the A830 outside of Caol, which will let you know, and also if it's running late. If the ferry is cancelled, that would give you the opportunity to turn arond and take the bridge.

You didn't say which day you are sailing. There is a different Mallaig-Armadale schedule just about every day. It's a good 75 minutes, more like 90 minutes, from Armadale to Elgol. The road to Broadford is fine, but unless you drive like Stirling Moss (sorry, I should have said Jackie Stewart!), that road from Broadford to Elgol is slow going.

In order to get from Glencoe in order to catch the 12:30 AquaXplore, you'd need to catch the earliest ferry out of Mallaig, or get a really early start, and take the bridge. As you'll be on an RIB, you'll need to hit the loo in Elgol before you get on board. The public loo (50 pence) is up a steep hill from the jetty, so you'd need to take care of business before driving down to the jetty. Sorry to be a bit crude about that, but forewarned is forearmed!

If you decide to go with the RIB cruise on Raasay, you'd need to take the 1:00 p.m. ferry from Sconser to get to Raasay in time for your 2:00 p.m. trip. Sconser is the better part of an hour from Armadale. This is a turn up and go ferry, but you should still count on being at the ferry slip at least 15 to 20 minutes ahead of departure time so that you don't lose the opportunity to sail. The next ferry doesn't leave until 3:00 p.m. The last time we went to Raasay, the ferry had just departed, but they saw us arriving at the slip, and came back for us. I will always hold CalMac in highest esteem for that!

On a good day, Portree is about 90 minutes from Armadale. It looks shorter, but I can tell you that unless you drive like the aforementioned Moss/Stewart, it's closer to 90 minutes.

Had you considered taking a Small Isles trip out of Mallaig with CalMac? The schedule is really convoluted, but the voyages can make for a peaceful day of sailing, with the opportunity to see minke whales or dolphins along the way. There are two routes at present - Eigg and Muck, or Rum and Canna. Most of these are sailed on the Loch Nevis, unless she has been called in to duty elsewhere.

isn31c had mentioned the nature trips aboard the Western Isles. They also have daily trips (the "Knoydart Taxi") to Inverie on Knoydart, and the afternoon run also takes in Tarbet, on Loch Nevis, as well as Inverie. It's a pleasant way to spend a few hours on the water.

I hope that gives you enough information to help you along with your travel plans.

Best wishes,

Mike (Auchterless)

p.s.: If you end up in Elgol for any length of time, there is not a whole lot to do. You can take a short walk up the east side of Loch Scavaig, past the schoolhouse, to a point where you can see all the way up to the Lodge at Camasunary at the far end of the loch. It's one of the prettiest views in Scotland, right in to the heart of the Cuillins. You can also take the short walk to Prince Charlie's cave, which is on the headland just south of the jetty at Elgol. That walk can be found on the Walk Highlands website. There's a small tearoom in Elgol, or you can pick up a cuppa at the village shop.

p.p.s.: If you have a mobile (cell phone), let the folks at Bella Jane/AquaXplore have your number, just in case they have to cancel due to the weather. That would save you a drive to Elgol.

Posted by
44 posts

Appreciate the detailed input Mike!

I underestimated the few departures from Sconser to Raasay so we may have to think long and hard about it. To make the 11:30am ferry, we’d be cutting it fine with a 10:15am arrival on Armadale. The only way I can think we could make it work is by perhaps having lunch somewhere along the way (to give us a gap before the rib boat tour) and taking the 1pm ferry to Raasay. Though I suppose if the time we have on Raasay is just for the rib boat tour and distillery with no time on either side, it may not be worth our while with the fuss.

My ‘back up’ plan thought of for the day may have to be the one we go with to avoid too busy a day with close timings.

What do you think were we instead to take the 11:45am Mallaig - Armadale ferry (to allow a bit of a later start), popping in at Torabhaig Distillery for the 12:30pm tour, having a bite of lunch before continuing to Portree, and then taking the 4:15pm Sky Seafari rib tour from Portree pier?

It would be a bit tight with getting to Torabhaig Distillery (we'd have 15 minutes to make the drive, but given the nature of it, can probably join a few minutes late if running behind, or alternatively, if the ferry were delayed, we'd just skip it) but I would like to think it may be more realistic?

Our accommodation is right near the Portree Pier (2 minute walk) so assuming we allowed 45-60 minutes for lunch, it would give us 1hr45mins to get from Armadale to Portree and drop our luggage off, which I think would be ok?

Posted by
8684 posts

I personally think that Raasay as proposed is tight. The distillery tour is 45 to 60 minutes. And the non driver wants their three tastings afterwards, and you want to get your drivers drams from them. You are meant to be at the pier for the last sailing of the night by 1755, and have a short drive to get there. It should work but is a bit optimal, especially on the last sailing of the night.

I would like to think they would call the ferry to hold it for you if a bit late , but it isn't my personal style to ask for a favour. I want it to work for you but......

For plan B can you even join the tour late?

My feeling is to take the 1145 ferry. Book for 2pm at Talisker, then Portree as above. From the ferry times this is a Friday, when schools finish early so you won't be facing their traffic on the way from Talisker.

2pm is still a tad tight, but the best of the 3 non Raasay options IMO.

Posted by
44 posts

Thanks for the suggestion @isn31c - that’s a much better idea!

How long would you suggest we estimate for the drive from Armadale to Talisker Distillery and then from Talisker to Portree?

I doubt we’d have time for a proper lunch stop but could make it work.

I’ll also check in with Torabhaig if we’d be ok if we were a tad late for their 12:30pm tour as I’d prefer to support the independent distillery if possible! That section of road isn’t single track so I think we’d possibly make it bang on time for their tour start time.

Posted by
8684 posts

An hour from Armadale to Talisker- so even if you add on a factor of 50% you are close enough. I'd allow that much of a 'just in case' factor personally but it still gets you there with a few minutes in hand.

And being on that ferry you will be passing Fort William at around 10am. From FW to Talisker over the bridge (if you divert that way due to weather) is 2 hours 30- say 3 hours- still gets you to Talisker on time. Less of a 'just in case' factor as better roads.

(From FW to Armadale is 2 hours over the bridge- say 2 hours 30)- So much the same arrival time as on the ferry.

30 minutes Talisker to Portree- make that 45 minutes to allow for parking, and walk to the pier. That possibly gives you 30 minutes in hand to make the boat trip, assuming the distillery tour takes an hour.

Posted by
1371 posts

As a local I can completely concur with the advice you've had from isn31c and Mike (Auchterless). I think you've made the right decision to abandon your first two options of Elgol and Raasay. The timings are way too tight. I've done the rib on Aquaexplore many times and it's wonderful but parking in Elgol can be impossible, the boats don't go if the weather isn't right and the drive from Armadale to Elgol could take you close to 2 hours in tourist season.

For Raasay the ferries won't wait! That day sounds more doable than Elgol, but still timings are tight.
Armadale to Talisker could take an hour with the traffic and Talisker is owned by Diageo so very much a corporate experience. It'd then be about an hour from Carbost to Portree.

Armadale to Torabhaig is an easy drive of around 15 minutes. You'll have a much less stressful day!

Posted by
840 posts

The Jacobite spends the night in Fort William, and we found that they let anyone stroll the station, take selfies etc. We did it near departure time, but I'd assume the train just sits on the platform all evening and night - someone else will have to comment on if you can stroll up to it at 7am or 8pm or if it gets moved to a siding.

To complicate decisions, there's a day trip available from Arisaig to a couple of the Small Islands, including a couple of hours on Canna for puffins.

Posted by
8684 posts

Seeing the Jacobite at Fort William station is not that easy.

It gets shunted in and out to sidings every night, but also operating practices changed last year.

I have video evidence from visits by four different people on different dates that the platform is now barriered off with ticket holders only admitted.
Cal Sleeper passengers on the opposite platform are apparently now not being allowed to loiter or to make a cross platform connection- instead being sent to the back of the queue.

The best chance to view is probably from the Morrisons car park before the sleeper arrives and blocks the view.

The empty stock for the 1015 arrives at 0917. It gets back from Mallaig at 1603 and is shunted back out at 1624. If required for the unbookable 3rd (Q) train it arrives back at 1733 for the 1743 to Arisaig arriving back at 2118 (and shunted back out ten minutes later). This evening service rarely runs.

The empty stock for the 1250 arrives at 1159, gets back from Mallaig at 1908, and is shunted back out to the sidings ten minutes later.

Posted by
1562 posts

I've managed to get several photos of the Jacobite with steam up at the terminus in Mallaig. As the locomotive stops short of the platform, it is very difficult to get a decent photograph from the end of the platform. However, there are several vantage points from which good photographs can be taken. A decent telephoto lens comes in very handy!

You can also get up close to the Jacobite at the level crossing at Morar. That's probably the best spot to get photos of the locomotive if you don't want the hassle of parking at Glenfinnan. It's certainly not as dramatic as seeing the train crossing the viaduct, but it's about as close as you can get without riding the train. And yes, I have photos from there! Although I was staying about 50 yards away in Morar at the time.

Happy Trainspotting!

Mike (Auchterless)

Posted by
44 posts

Thanks all!

Reading back over things, I'm thinking we may be better not doing a whisky tasting only hours before a high speed boat tour...

We'll pair things right back and simply aim for the Skye Seafari rib cruise. Looking at the 2:30pm Kilt Rock cruise or the shorter 4:15pm cruise through the Sound of Raasay so that we're not putting too much pressure on ourselves.

Thinking we'll take the 10:15am ferry if taking the earlier cruise, or 11:45am ferry if taking the later cruise. Likely the latter so we can have a bit more of a sleep in or otherwise have time to make short stops on the drives to Mallaig and then to Portree.

If anyone has any suggestions for lunch spots between Armadale and Portree, would love to hear them (we'll be having all our dinners in Portree hence would prefer to have lunch en route to give some business to a restaurant outside of Portree).

Posted by
1562 posts

Hi again, Victoria,

A couple of quick recommendations for lunch between Armadale and Portree:

Cafe Sia, Broadford (on the left side of the A87, just at the north end of the village)

Sconser Lodge (in Sconser, about 200 yards before the ferry terminal, on the right, just past the golf course)

And if you're really pressed for time, there's Siaway Fish and Chips across from the car park in Broadford, or sandwiches/wraps from the Co-op in Broadford.

I'm sure that Skyegirl will pitch in with some personal favourites!

Best wishes,

Mike (Auchterless)

Posted by
1371 posts

Cafe Sia as Mike says is pretty good.

I'd avoid Deli Gasta in Broadford as it gets far too busy and they just can't cope with demand. Service is slow.
Coffee Bothy in Broadford is decent and quick service too. Great cakes.
Also An Crubh which is on the Sleat peninsula about 20 minutes from Armada is excellent. It's a community run general store and cafe.

In Portree you could try Gasta at LAS, which is the Skye Candles shop and also the island cinema. They do decent pizza (wood fired oven), sandwiches, bagels and salads. Also some cakes.
Also in Portree Cafe Ariba is decent with good views of the harbour.
For evening meals Scorrybreac is a well regarded fine dining restaurant.

Once in Portree you will need reservations for dinner unless you plan on hotel room picnics or fish and chips.