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My turn...Hi Mike :)

I have had good advice from Texas Travel Mum and Mike in the past and I hope they will chime in now :)

We were going to do this trip in May 2023 but unfortunately my partner had two emergency surgeries in Prague so we never made it. Now all is good, so time for a do over :)

We will arrive very late on May 25th and spend 4 nights in Edinburgh before renting a car. Then driving to Stirling before getting to Oban. I know this is rather late and a lot of places have already gone, but wondering if we should spend 1 night in Oban and then 3 nights in Tobermory or 2 in Oban and 2 in Tobermory? After that we will drive to Broadford on Skye for 4 or 5 nights. Then we will drive to the Cairngorms for 3 nights before heading back to Edinburgh for 1 or 2 nights.

We are older but active. Want to hike, see castles, drink whiskey, stay in a combo or airbnbs and b&b, eat some good food, but don't want to rush as we know the driving will take longer than we imagine.

Feel free to comment and share any ideas as would be much appreciated. Mostly thinking about Oban and Mull and what to do.

Thanks do much.

Posted by
8882 posts

As you are heading to Skye from Tobermory you need to get the Armadale ferry booked soon.
That is on a single ferry timetable due to a shortage of ships so only has limited space. You won't make the 1130 crossing so are on the 1400 or 1600 - last of the day.

Likewise Oban to Craignure- smaller ships than normal are expected to be running that route in late May. Book on a Loch Frisa sailing ASAP.
If you book on an Isle of Mull sailing it is very likely that will be replaced with the far smaller Loch Coruisk and you may be bounced off it onto the Corran ferry/Fishnish route at short notice.
First find what rooms are available on Mull- that may determine your split of nights for you.
In Oban don't forget the Oban distillery.

As you have made your preferred respondents clear I won't write more.

Posted by
5071 posts

Ok, I am laughing.

isn31c will give you the best advice available for the ferries. So heed it. I think Mardee drove on Skye and am pretty sure Allan did, but I did not.

As for the number of nights, I really like how you are taking it slow. Maybe because that’s what I like to do. Ha!

If it were me on the Oban/Tobermory question, I would say 1 night Oban (because you are planning to get there slowly via Stirling) and then 3 nights Tobermory. However I would check a couple of things: one being if it’s puffin nesting time and if the tours are running. I took a tour to the Treshnish Islands and Fingall’s Cave from Tobermory, which worked better for me. I also wanted to go to Iona, but doing my trip this way meant I needed to go a separate day, taking the bus to and from the ferry to Iona (a change in Craignure). I didn’t drive Tobermory to the ferry (which is long) but a few people have reported on it. If you WANT to go to Iona, you would need to check current bus schedules and allow a full day if not driving. But the tours also run to and from Oban to all 3 stops. And if weather arises one day, it’s nice to have extra days to try to fit any of this in - your choice where you are in the meantime. There are some posts somewhere about drives you could take from Oban if you opt that way. (It’s all just choice but mine would be staying longer on Mull.)

However all your choices may be bounded by where you find lodging, with only 2 months to go. Skye and Mull will be the hardest.

edit: And you may be bounded by ferry availability.

Posted by
8882 posts

The ferries are in a very precarious situation at the moment, unprecedented since Cal Mac was formed from the Caledonian Steam Packet Company and David MacBraynes 52 years ago.
There is a very significant nervousness in the air currently.
Two years ago, when Mardee was there, they still had some creative slack in the system to be able to rustle up extra sailings out of thin air.
Until at least the week after you are there, this year they have literally run out of ships due to various maintenance issues. All routes (except one) remain open, but with different vessels being deployed and fewer sailings on some routes and even different ports being used (notably to the Isle of Arran). It is also a total unknown what happens if any more ships go technical as there is nothing left in the pot. The best that will happen is they arrange passenger only charters to cover.

I am also somewhat nervous about suggesting people divert to Mull from Oban via Fishnish in case the council owned Corran ferry breaks down again, as it did in 2023 for many months- when that happens it adds hours on to the drive. Also there is a risk of overwhelming the capacity on the Fishnish ferry.

The summer bus timetables for Mull are also not announced yet, which doesn't help- that means that the apps are showing no service running- which is false. We know what the timetable should be, but not for definite.

This is a very, very difficult situation to advise on. Mull can't afford to lose it's tourism. Personally I am not married to the car. My own advice until things sort themselves out is very clear, but will be contradicted by others and go unheeded. Be very flexible and use public transport where possible (and it is better than often acknowledged).
It is possible for instance (although the timetables are not yet on line) to do Stirling, then Stirling to Oban direct by bus (that day arrange luggage storage with stasher or equivalent in Stirling). Overnight in Oban, cross next day as foot passenger. If you feel you really can't survive on Mull without a car then arrange on island rental from one of the two island companies. Likewise for Skye.

Of course everything may have resolved itself by late May, sooner than expected. Literally no-one knows. My own deep gut reaction is that the problems may go on further into June than CalMac and everyone else expect and dearly hope for. The current situation is hugely frustrating, but new ships arriving through this year will finally cure the underlying issues.

At best I don't want people going into the situation blindfold. Forewarned is fore-armed. What you do with the information is ultimately your choice.

Posted by
209 posts

As always great tips so thanks so much and I am a person who is asking for advice as I don't know, so I am listening and heeding :)

We will have a car and as I mentioned and we will be moving slowly.

Heeding advice, we will spend one night in Oban and we will get there late in the day so spend the next day checking out the area (hope that is enough to see Oban before taking the last ferry from Oban to Mull (will book today) and then driving to the airbnb. I managed to find two good places, based on the reviews anyway :) Then spend two full days on Mull maybe take day, trips but if not just enjoy the beauty.. Then we would have to "get off" Mull so I will look into that ferry schedule now. Just to clarify which one do you guys suggest?

So hopefully the two ferries needed on our trip will be working. If we get to go to see puffins etc but that would be an add on :)

Thanks for all the tips.

Posted by
341 posts

I rented a car and spent 4 nights on Skye last May. I did some hiking while there.

Posted by
5071 posts

I did the public transportation from Edinburgh to Mull - but didn’t go via Stirling. And I did without a car till Skye, going from Tobermory via Ft William and Maillag to Skye, then picking up a car just for my time there. But from Skye I headed a different direction, so am no help at this point.

Posted by
8882 posts

I'm assuming you've found places to stay in Tobermory, not elsewhere on Mull.

If so take the first ferry over from Tobermory to Kilchoan. That ferry can't be booked- turn up and go. Then book the 1400 ASAP from Mallaig to Armadale.
Normally I would say to get to Mallaig, then do the lunchtime wildlife cruise or the Knoydart mail boat cruise, then a later ferry to Skye, but....

So from Kilchoan I would then take the divert down to Ardnamurchan Point lighthouse and back (30 minutes each way for the scenery, and the most westerly point in mainland Britain) then proceed to Mallaig. You should have time to fit in a stop at the stunning silver sand beaches at Morar and hopefully be able to see the morning steam train passing through Arisaig station headed for Mallaig. Be sure to be in line at Mallaig a minimum 30 minutes before sailing.

Hopefully you have time for a quick lunch in Mallaig.

If the Kilchoan ferry isn't running for any reason hightail it down Mull to Fishnish and get the first available sailing to Lochaline (another unbookable route). Unless there is a long, long line (if the Craignure route has a problem) you still have time to get to Mallaig via Strontian then turn left to get back on the road to Mallaig.

Worst case if Fishnish has a long line, and the Sat Nav at Strontian says you can't get to Mallaig on time just go to Skye via the bridge. But that shouldn't happen, touch wood.

You will know if the Mallaig ferry is off (from the app and the boat crews from Mull)- if so at the A830 junction (coming from Kilchoan) turn right for the Skye Bridge via Fort William. Via Fishnish turn right at Strontian for the Corran ferry to Fort William and the bridge.
If the Corran ferry is off I'm not sure whether to say continue on from Corran round Loch Linnhe and Loch Eil via Camusnagaul to the A830, or turn left at Strontian for Acharacle as above. I suspect the two routes are as long as they are short, although the route round the Lochs feels never ending.

Posted by
209 posts

Thanks so much.

Yes I got a place in Oban and Tobermory which seem great. Does help that we will have a lot of daylight for driving and exploring. I have booked the 5.15pm ferry on May 30th so we can have a fullish day in Oban and then the ferry and probably 40 to 50 min drive to our airbnb.

I will do what you suggested about the best way to Broadford, let's hope they don't cancel any ferries that way.

Very much appreciated.

Posted by
10814 posts

When we drove from Oban to Portree we used the bridge. We didn’t want to be so tightly scheduled to take the ferry. When we left Skye to drive to Inverness we went back over the bridge.

Posted by
8693 posts

Hi, nicola,

You've gotten some great advice so far. In terms of driving, I've used Arnold Clark on my last two trips to the UK. Earlier this year in England, I was there for almost 6 weeks and rented directly with Arnold Clark. In 2023 when I was in Scotland for 3 weeks, I rented from them through their broker, Celtic Legend for my trip to Scotland. Both rental experiences went very well. Arnold Clark is a pleasure to deal with. Their agents explain everything to you and make sure that you understand the fine print. They are good about upgrading sometimes, and very courteous and helpful. I will always use them in the UK for future rentals.

https://www.arnoldclarkrental.com/
https://www.celticlegend.co.uk/car-rental/

In terms of driving itself, driving on the left is fairly easy. After the first couple of minutes, you'll get the hang of it. Just remember when you first start up the car to think to yourself, "Go left." That's the time when you forget. Some folks put little notes on the dash. The first time, I messed up leaving the parking lot but after that I was fine (and so was the other driver who politely waited for me to come to my senses and get in the correct lane).

The hardest part of driving involves the single-track roads. Not only are the roads narrow, but there is no shoulder, so you have to be careful not to veer too quickly to the right or left, as you can ruin a tire by going off the road. Keep in mind there are plenty of passing places, and you'll get the etiquette down pretty quickly. Here's one video that is helpful: Driving on Single Track Roads

On Skye, some of the roads have heavy potholes you need to watch out for. There are some good roads there, though. For example, the road from Armadale to Portree is a 2 lane well-kept road. Mull's roads were generally pretty decent but mostly single-track. In other places, they get a lot easier. I had no problems driving along the coastal road from Inverness to Cruden Bay and farther south.

Posted by
8693 posts

And now onto Mull. I vote for 3, if not 4 nights there. I love Mull, possibly more than Skye. Tobermory is charming and there is a lot you can see and do there. I stayed 4 nights in one of the harbor B&Bs and parked in one of the free car lots on the harbor. It's lovely to be able to walk down through the shops and restaurants that line the harbor. Bring your camera as it's very photogenic. You can visit the Isle of Mull Cheese Shop (Sgriob-ruadh Farm), which is about a mile from the harbor. There are self-guided tours to meet the farm animals and learn about traditional cheese making. There is also a cafe and a farm shop.

Also, there is a short walk from the harbor car park along the wooded hillside to Aros Park with woodland trails, a lochan and really nice waterfalls. A walk from the other end of Main Street leads along a coastal path to the Rubha Nan Gall Lighthouse. There are amazing views out over the Sound of Mull. And another short walk up the hill towards Baliscate leads to the Baliscate Standing Stones. Nearby is the site of the Baliscate Chapel, the subject of a BBC archaeology dig.

You also might want to stop at Isle of Mull Pottery, which is just beautiful. They sell some in the shops along the harbor but the main shop is in the town up above Main St. (you will pass it if you go to Calgary).

The Tobermory Bakery is wonderful—definitely stop here for one of their delectable pastries, take-away sandwiches and coffee or tea. Their Millionaire's Shortbread is incredible! There is a shop at the end of the harbor that is farthest from the ferry terminal that sells handmade chocolate with a tea room, and along the way are some very nice gift shops - I bought half my souvenirs in Mull (and I'm picky about stuff like that). Lots of nice restaurants, too. There is also a catch-and-release aquarium that is interesting, too.

Don't miss Calgary Beach, which is about a 35-40 minute drive from Tobermory. It's very narrow and the single track roads run through the mountains with some switchbacks, so you will need to go slow through much of it. It's well worth a visit to see the beautiful beach.

And of course, there is the Isle of Iona, the birthplace of Christianity in Scotland and filled with so much history. It makes for a wonderful day trip from Tobermory. You can drive to Fionnphort (which is a long drive—Google says 1.25 hours, but my trip took a little under 2 hours), then take the 10 minute ferry over to Iona, see the ruins and the history there, have some lunch, walk on the beach. It's an amazing day.

Posted by
209 posts

Hi there Mardee

Thanks for all the information about cars and Mull. I am actually English but live in San Diego so not worries about driving :) I do realize single track is more challenging. One reason why I wanted to do this trip at a slow pace was because I know the driving will take much longer and we will be doing lots of stops. I was able to get a very good deal from Hertz so with the car renal I am good, but thanks!

The information about Mull was great! We decided to stay 3 nights and actually enjoy it rather than just rushing everywhere and you have given some great suggestions, thanks.

Looking forward to this trip and I thank everyone for their help as it certainly makes it easier :)

Posted by
8693 posts

Sounds like you are all set, then! Yes, that does make a difference that you're a Brit, lol!

Have a wonderful trip!

Posted by
4832 posts

Don't miss Calgary Beach, which is about a 35-40 minute drive from
Tobermory. It's very narrow and the single track roads run through the
mountains with some switchbacks, so you will need to go slow through
much of it. It's well worth a visit to see the beautiful beach.

It seems everything has been covered so I'll just 2nd the recommendation for Calgary Beach. Beautiful blue water, fine white sand, all it's missing are the palm trees. I hope you have enough time dedicated to Stirling before you leave for Oban, we spent about 6 hours there including 4 at the castle.