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Looking for suggestions on our Scotland Itinerary for September

We (couple in our 50's) are going to Europe for 2 months (our 1st trip overseas). After England, we are heading to Scotland, where we have 10 days. We prefer a relaxed pace, not big crowds and besides scenic beauty are interested in historical and cultural sights and activities. Most of the rest of our trip will be in cities, so except for Edinburgh, we wish to spend the rest of the time seeing some countryside.
Thanks for your comments and suggestions!

Arrive in Edinburgh night before by train.
Day 1,2,3: Edinburgh
Day 4 Train to Pitlochry; Overnight Pitlochry
Day 5: Pitlochry Highland Games
Take early evening train to Inverness; Overnight Inverness
Day 6: Pick up rental car
Drive Caledonian Canal
Overnight Glen Coe area
Day 7: Glen Coe walks; Overnight Glen Coe area
Day 8: Drive to Oban, early ferry (with car) to Mull
Ferry to Iona; explore Iona maximum time until last ferry back
Overnight Mull
Day 9: Explore Mull
Ferry back, Dinner and overnight in Oban
Day 10: Scenic drive to Glasgow
Overnight Glasgow

Specific Questions:
• Is 3 days too much to devote to Edinburgh proper; should we plan on a day side trip?
• Sights on Caledonian Canal: not interested in Loch Ness, would be interested in a short boat trip but the ones I’ve seen so far all emphasize Loch Ness Monster. Urquhart castle worth seeing? Recommended stops, walks, picnic spot?
• Glen Coe: looking for suggestions for 2-3-mile walks without having to walk up big hills; suggestions on where to stay; is this the place to go for scenic walks for the “less fit”? If not, where would be?
• Mull/Iona: We want to stay longer on Iona than the standard tour allows (2 hours), so I thought of either taking the earliest and latest ferry or staying over on Iona; thoughts?
• Mull: worth spending the day on and, if so, should we go back and stay overnight in Oban or Mull? Best sights, walks on Mull?
• I ran into a very nice site which lists best places to stop on a scenic drive between Oban and Glasgow; any places your favorites?
• We’re from the Pacific NW, so used to clouds and drizzle, but for weather too bad for outdoor activities, alternative things to do at any of the above places would be appreciated!

Thank you!

Posted by
106 posts

I have only been to Scotland once so others may chime in. I think you want a relaxed pace yet it looks like you will be doing a lot of driving. Walking along the river in Inverness and taking the early morning Jacobite Cruise up Loch Ness to Urquart Castle were the highlights of my trip. Edinburgh, loaded with history and Art Museums I could spend an easy 3 days or more there. Iona is very small. I think 2 hours is plenty of time there. I went to the monastery, walk around, had lunch. Pitlochry Highland games should be fabulous.

Posted by
11 posts

Thanks Pissaro, for your feedback. I thought I had cut down on the driving by taking trains to Pitlochry and Inverness but I see your point. We spent 2 months on the road last fall in a trip from Seattle to Houston and I became very tired of driving. Google lists Inverness to Glencoe as 2 hours, another 1 hour to Oban and 2 hours from Oban to Glasgow so it sounded relatively short since all taken on different days.
Good to know about the boat ride; it's given short shrift in Rick's book but it sounds appealing.

Posted by
11 posts

And in regards to Iona, 2 hours just seems rushed to me as we have a strong interest in early church history and then want to have time for a leisurely walk. If we go on our own, we can take our time and go back to Mull when we're ready was my thought.

Posted by
1376 posts

Hi, OKgals,

You could spend three weeks in Edinburgh and not see everything. But if you're limited to three days, I'd recommend climbing Arthur's Seat and Calton Hill for starters, walking the Royal Mile from Holyrood Palace to the Castle, having a stroll through Princes Street Gardens; walk down Victoria Street to the Grassmarket, and back up via Candlemaker Row and Greyfriars Kirk.

The Botanical Gardens would be worth a visit, as would many of the closes (alleys) that lead off of both sides of the Royal Mile. Be sure to look up - it's really amazing to think of 18th. century Edinburgh, when some of those tenements were 10 floors high, with no toilet facilities.

If the weather's bad, there are lots of free museums close to Princes Street.

If you'd like a guided tour of Edinburgh, you may want to give Bill Hill a call. It would be a walking tour, but also via public transportation. Bill's telephone number is 44 7899 878857 if you're calling from the U.S., and 07899 878857 if you're already in Britain. In addition to being an excellent tour guide, Bill is also one of the funniest and funnest Scotsmen you're likely to encounter.

If you do run out of things to do in Edinburgh (not likely!), Stirling is a short train ride away. It's like Edinburgh in miniature.

As you're going to be driving down the A82 alongside Loch Ness and the Caledonian Canal, there's not really a lot to see, other than Loch Ness. It's a good road, surface wise, but unfortunately it's the main road out of Inverness going south. The result is that it's heavily traveled, and many drivers insist on going faster than the speed limit. So you may get a lot of tailgaters, and cars passing you on the right. The best thing to do is just maintain a steady speed and enjoy the scenery. There are several laybys along the A82 where you can stop to have a break and a picnic.

Urquhart Castle is worth stopping by to get some photos, as it's in a dramatic position overlooking Loch Ness, but unless you really want to visit a ruined castle, I'd recommend giving it a miss. I'd also recommend skipping the boat trips on Loch Ness, and maybe taking some of the walks along the River Ness. However, don't let me discourage you. If you decide to take a boat trip, pick one that goes where you want to go. They pretty much are limited to Loch Ness, but you can find one that doesn't include a trip to the castle.

If you're overnighting in Inverness, there's live Scottish folk music every night at The Gellions, on Bridge Street, across from the Tourist Information office. It's mostly traditional and contemporary, not ceilidh band music.

There are eight ferries a day from Fionnphort to Iona. Give yourselves more than two hours on Iona - it's well worth it. There is really limited accommodation on Iona - best to find somewhere in Fionnphort.

There aren't a lot of easy walks on Mull. The best low level walks would be around Tobermory, around the grounds of Duart Castle (the castle is worth a visit), and on the island of Ulva. Ulva is reached by a small boat off of Oskamull on the B8073.

If you want a change of pace from the Caledonian Canal, and don't want to take the ferry round trip from Oban to Craignure, you could take the A830 east from Fort William, then turn south on the A861 at Lochaline. At Salen, you have a choice of taking the B8007 toward Ardnamurchan, and catching the Kilchoan to Tobermory ferry; or staying on the A861 to Strontian, then taking the A884 south to Lochaline, for the ferry to Fishnish. The B8007 is a spectacular road, but it's mostly a hilly, single-track road, with passing places. However, sailing in to Tobermory Harbour will be one of the highlights of your trip.

If you decide to take the ferry from Kilchoan or Lochaline, be sure to be aware of the ferry schedules! Then you can sail to Oban from Craignure.

Have a wonderful holiday!

Posted by
1376 posts

p.s.: As it's your first time in Britain, just a reminder that you'll be driving on the left side of the road. The driver will be sitting on the right side of the car, and shifting with his or her left hand. Most of the rental cars are standard shift, with five or six forward gears. If you think that you'd be uncomfortable with that, you could request a car with automatic transmission. They're a little more expensive to hire, but it's one less thing to have to think about.

Enjoy yourselves!