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Just got home from Scotland

We just got home from our 3 week trip to Scotland, and I thought I'd share an "executive summary" as I get around to my normal report.

This trip was a "jam packed" type with a rental car and few multi-night night. Not for everyone, but we like to see lots of things. I know others might hate this travel style. Also, our favorites are birding/ruins/music.

In 21 days, we had one evening with a little rain. Otherwise over 60F every day with lots of sun.

Day 1/2 Fly from west coast US to Glasgow (via Iceland). Got off the flight, took a bus to Queens Street and got on the train to Aberdeen. Spent the evening at the Blue Lamp with the Aberdeen Folk Club's weekly session.

Day 3 Walk/bus around Aberdeen, wife did a bunch of reading about her kin at Kings College Library. Spent the evening at The Northern Bar with a splinter group of the Aberdeen Folk Club.

Day 4 Get rental car in town and headed north to visit my "estate" (my wife bought me a lairdship of 1 sq foot of land after last trip, Slains Castle, Bullers of Buchan, Pitslago Castle, then Rosehearty.

Day 5 Troup Head RSPB, Bow Fiddle Rock, Craigmin Bridge, Elgin Cathedral, to Nairn with surprise house concert at the B&B.

Day 6 Clava Cairns, Culloden, Cairn Laith, Whaligoe Steps, Sinclair Castle, to Wick.

Day 7 Duncansby Head/Stacks, John o'groats (for flat tire replacement on a bank holiday miracle), Dunnet Head, realized Puffin Cove was restricted, Smoo Cave, to Durness.

Day 8 Rock Stop Museum, Allt Chranaidh Falls, Wee Mad road, Knockan Crag NR, tp Ullapool. Crazy accordion musician at pub.

Day 9 Rhue Lighthouse, Falls of Measach, to Shieldag and on to Locharron. Finally a little rain and too cloudy for the best chance for the Aurora.

Day 10 Attendale Gardens, Invergary Castle, Falls of Foyer to Fort Augustus.

Day 11 Crarae Gardens, Royal Castle of Tarbert (saw adder!), Kennecraig Ferry to Port Askaig to Bowmore.

Day 12 Loch Gruinart, Machir Beach, Port Mor Cafe, Finlaggan, Bridgend Woods

Day 13 Mull of Oa, Kildalton Cross, three Distillery walk - half by car, half walk - only drinking for wife :-(

Day 14 Early ferry from Port Ellen, The Red Lion (Outlander) in Culross for lunch, to Anstruther with harbor stroll.

Day 15 St. Andrews Castle & Cathedral, Montrose Wildlife Trust, Fowlsheugh RSPB, Dunnattar Castle, to Stonehaven.

Day 16 Cullerie Stones, Culsh Earth House, turn in car in Aberdeen, fly to Sumburgh, Sumburgh Head to Lerwick. Great session at The Lounge.

Day 17 Muckle Voe Lighthouse, Frankie's for lunch, Fort Charlotte, Town Hall (stained glass), great session at Marlex. (Second trip to Shetland, so don't list what we missed!)

Day 18 Ferry over to Bressay to visit wife's 19th century house ruin, and Heritage Museum, then lunch in Lerwick and ferries to Yell and Unst, Muness Castle, Clivocast, Keen of Hamar, to Baltasound.

Day 19 Bobby's Bus Stop, Hermaness Reserve for fabulous gannett and puffin viewing, Victoria's Tearoom, Boat Haven, Heritage Museum, Skinbladner.

Day 20 Ferries back to Shetland mainland, Sumburgh Lighthouse (again), flight to Edinburgh. Fabulous Edinburgh Shetland Fiddlers session at Digger's (just two of us in snug).

Day 21 Train/bus to Glasgow for LONG flight home to PNW.

Wouldn't do anything different except maybe one lodging choice in Wick. Too much to see with too little time. Back to Scotland in 2026.

Posted by
2600 posts

May is often the best month for Scotland weather-wise.

Posted by
783 posts

We always visit the Isles in May. Even had great weather in late April and early June.

Posted by
14818 posts

What an excellent time you had! I love your Shetland sights - I enjoyed the Victoria Tea Room (northernmost tea room in the UK, hahaha!) as well as many of the other sights you saw. What a place!

Where did you all stay for your night/s in Aberdeen? Just curious. I stayed at the PI last August which was fine but may do something different when I go back to Orkney/Shetland in 2025.

Pam

Posted by
8157 posts

So many wonderful destinations, jjgurley! I'm getting nostalgic just looking through it. Especially Slains Castle and the Bullers of Buchan. Two of my favorite places.

Posted by
3097 posts

What a great trip! Thanks for sharing. Eagerly waiting for the long version.

Posted by
6713 posts

Thanks for sharing this, but now I need a nap! In awe of your driving skill and stamina. What are you, 25 or so? ;-)

We're going to Scotland in August, a much more staid itinerary, but flying Icelandair as you did. Can't wait for your full report.

Posted by
1232 posts

A pity you could not have made it a bit earlier for the Shetland Folk Festival on the first weekend in May. A totally mad weekend. It was our first visit to Shetland and we tagged on a couple of nights on Unst. Did you stay in the Baltasound Hotel - also totally mad in a 70s tribute way. And the weather was incredible that week - sunny, warm and no wind.

Posted by
147 posts

Thank you for sharing your marvelous trip report! Your vacation was filled with music, whisky, and various adventures: a flat tire, a snake, fossils, a private ferry, and a private concert are what I found most interesting. Plus I am wondering about the full lyrics to that reworking of "Ring of Fire." I also liked your format of interspersing photos with text.

Posted by
8157 posts

jjgurley, what a lovely, lovely trip report! It was such a pleasure seeing so many of the places I visited and loved, and much more! Oh, I miss Scotland! I need to get it back on my future agenda!

I have a question, though. I saw that Arnold Clark didn't charge you for the unmatched tire, but I'm assuming you had to pay for that. Did Arnold Clark reimburse you for what you had to pay? Or your credit card?

Posted by
783 posts

Since I hadn't bought tire insurance, I was afraid that I would pay to have the tire replaced with a like brand, in addition to paying for the used latex equipment. The agent scratched his chin, talked with his supervisor, then said "we're all square". They asked for the receipt I had for the new tire. Unfortunately, I failed to get a copy, so getting a reimbursement from my card carrier would have been harder than $95 is worth.

Posted by
8157 posts

That makes sense—I don't blame you for taking care of it yourself. 5-6 hours is a long time to wait and I'm really glad you were able to get it fixed quickly.

I agree with you about St. Olaf's—good food and slow service, but they were very nice. I spent one night there before heading south towards Edinburgh (with another stopover in Dunfermline) and thought it was a lovely hotel.

Posted by
1306 posts

What a wonderful trip report. I am off to Shetland in September so I will be saving your trip report to shamelessly crib for top tips for our trip. Thank you!
Jacqui (Skyegirl)

Posted by
783 posts

There's a current TV series called Shetland: Scotland's Wonderous Isles. Not sure who is producing it, but it has 5 episodes so far.

Posted by
8157 posts

Jacqui, are you going to be there for Shetland Wool Week? Still on my radar!

Posted by
1476 posts

Sounds like my kind of holiday! I'm in Gairloch right now, and it has been pouring rain all day (mostly horizontal rain, for that matter!) However, we are comfortably ensconced at the Gairloch Hotel, where we have just had the best meal in 51 years of visiting Scotland (Haggis stuffed chicken).

We spent most of yesterday travelling from Inverness to Drumbeg. Mrs A will never let me forget the B869! I treated her today to the delightful road from Lochinver to Stac Pollaidh, by way of Inverkirkaig. JJ, is that the Wee Mad Road you were referring to?

Tomorrow it's off to Skye, then back to the mainland and down to Oban and Islay. I was really sweating the trip to Islay, as CalMac didn't open up the ferry schedule for those sailings until a couple of weeks before our departure from the U.S. After Islay, off to Bute, then the Rhinns of Galloway to see some of the locations from 2000 Acres of Sky.

It's good to be back! (Both in Scotland and on the forum) This is the first time we've ever been able to access the internet while we've been on the road.

Mike (Auchterless)

Posted by
783 posts

Someone here called the route from Lochiniver to Stac Pollaidh as such - I think it might have been Stuart? Really not that "mad" till you run into a camper van that ignores the warning signs. We passed two that were about to meet. I wonder how that turned out...

Posted by
1306 posts

Mardee - no sadly not there for wool week (again!), but accommodation was at a premium and we wanted to visit Unst so we took what the ferry and accommodation gods would provide.

Auchterless - so good to see you back. Hope you are enjoying the summer weather on Skye today!

Posted by
1476 posts

Hi, Jacqui,

Summer weather? Well, at least it didn't rain today down here in sunny Breakish! Meals at CafeSia have gone up considerably in cost since our last visit, and ASDA have taken over the petrol side of the CoOp in Broadford.

On the plus side, we found some half price doughnuts at the CoOp in Kyle, and the free toilet at said CoOp was a welcome respite to having to pay or leave a donation at the loos coming down the West Coast!

It's good to be back!

Mike (Auchterless)

Posted by
1306 posts

Mike,
Amy's Place cafe in Torrin is doing cake at £3 a slice today as she's baked too many cakes. Fab cake and nice views of the mountains.
Jacqui

Posted by
1476 posts

Hi, Jacqui,

Damn! I hate to miss a good bargain! We were up at the North end of Skye today, visiting the Falls of *** (I know it's supposed to be kept a secret!) and the Fairy Glen. Afterwards, we drove the 855 round to Staffin. So many camper vans! I found out later that all of the money collected for parking at the various sites goes to the Council in Inverness, and Skye gets none of it. The person who told us this said that that money could be used to repair some of the roads on Skye. After today's drive, I have to agree! I think that I found just about every pothole on the Trotternish Peninsula!

One more day on Skye before heading off to Mallaig on Monday.

Mike (Auchterless)

Posted by
1306 posts

Mike, ah yes those falls! My B&B guests must have been on your tail. If you and Mrs Auchterless need or desire refreshment tomorrow and happen to be planning a trip out west let me know. You’d be very welcome to call in. We are on the way to Glendale.
Jacqui

Posted by
1476 posts

Hi, Jacqui,

We had planned to go to the music session at the Edinbane Inn, but it appears that they are shut for the week. I think that we'll try for one of Calum's seal trips out of Plockton today. Thank you very much for the invite. Call me at 0744 4783840. It would be good to meet you, if we're not too pressed for time. How are the roads out your way?

Mike (Auchterless)