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Itinerary Help

We are heading to Scotland transatlantic arriving in Edinburgh around 3:00 pm April 13 . It will be our first trip to Scotland ,we are in our late 60's and like being active . We would much rather see beautiful scenery and going for hikes vs. going to museums. Any advice about changing our itinerary, places to stay ,restaurants and activities would be appreciated.
April 13 Edinburgh
April 14 Edinburgh
April 15 Edinburgh

April 16 Rent a car from the Edinburgh airport and head to Stirling/St Andrews/Crail/ Pitlochry and ending up in the Oban / Glencoe area . Where we would like to explore and go for some walks/hikes. Any suggestions which location would be better to stay ?
April 17 Glencoe
April 18 Glencoe

April 19 Drive to Isle of Skye for 2 nights . Is this enough time at Isle of Skye ?
April 20 Isle of Skye

April 21 Drive to Moffat for 2 nights
April 22 Moffat Any suggestions on wear to stay ?

April 23 Drive to Glasgow airport, drop the car off and fly to Islay and stay one night in Islay .

April 24 Fly to Glasgow for the night
April25 Fly to Amsterdam.

Posted by
7977 posts

Interesting to see someone visiting Moffat, great place to be for the scenery and hikes. Both in Dumfriesshire and in the Borders.
It's really day trip terrain to me, so I have never stayed there. When I do overnight in the area I usually stay in Dumfries, half an hour down the road, where I have a cosy little B and B that I use.
But in Moffat I know that a lot of people really like both the Annandale Arms and the Buccleuch Arms. Both are old coaching inns from pre motorway days and both have high local reputations.
I would happily go for either if I was staying there, based on reputation.

Posted by
175 posts

I don't think you have enough time for Skye. It takes awhile to get there, things are spread out once you're there, and it's a beautiful area (really, all of Scotland is). We had three nights in Skye last April and that was a good minimum. I would suggest you cut something out and add a night to Skye; adding a night to Glencoe would be ideal, too.

Edinburgh is fantastic but you could potentially get away with just two nights there, given your interests. We found it to be a wonderful city but the main sights are pretty close together and can be seen quickly, if needed.

Posted by
2305 posts

I’m not sure where in your itinerary you are allowing time for going on hikes (or museums, apart from in Edinburgh)...

April 16 - That is a lot of driving for the day . You are talking about 250 miles and 7+ hours without any stops to get to Oban. Continue to Glencoe area and that adds on another 35 miles and nearly another hour to the drive time...

That distance may not seem far, but driving in Scotland is slow. It will take a lot longer to cover distances than you might expect. Many roads are narrow and winding. Overtaking isn’t easy.

Are you planning on any sight seeing that day - Stirling Castle, St Andrews etc? If so, forget it as you wont have time, although you will see some wonderful scenery through the car window...

If the loop around Crail and St Andrews is a must, you can make it a more manageable drive by removing Pitlochry. Use the Forth Bridge to do a loop round the coast through Crail and St Andrews and then cut back across the middle to Stirling and then across to Oban. This is about 200 miles but is still going to take about 6 hours PLUS stops.

2 nights on Skye is effectively only a day and a bit. I’d agree with Coffee Girl that isn’t much time and is definitely short changing Skye. Rather than heading for Skye, have you thought about Mull instead? It is easily reached by ferry from Oban and is also scenically very good. Tobermory the main town is very attractive with its brightly coloured houses along the shore. You also have chance to visit Iona too with its early Christian heritage or the delightful Ulva. There are also all the antiquities around Kilmartin Glen just south of Oban.

You could easily fill in the four days based around Oban, Mull and Glencoe. It’s also less far to drive to Moffat too.

What are your plans for Moffat?

If you want completely different suggestions, head to Biggar, just under an hours drive away. Biggar Gas Museum
in the old gas works which used to make all the gas for the town is one of only 3 left in the UK and part of our lost heritage. We found it a fascinating place to visit and it still retained all the old evocative smells! Biggar itself is an attractive small town and the museum is also fun. They don’t get many overseas tourists so will be delighted to see you!

Another suggestion is the Museum of Lead Mining at Wanlockhead - about a 45 minute drive from Moffat. It’s a wonderful drive to get to the highest village in Scotland and one of the most isolated, especially in southern Scotland. It is surrounded by the Lowther Hills - bare windswept grass...

Posted by
8065 posts

Rather than heading for Skye, have you thought about Mull instead? It is easily reached by ferry from Oban and is also scenically very good. Tobermory the main town is very attractive with its brightly coloured houses along the shore. You also have chance to visit Iona too with its early Christian heritage or the delightful Ulva. There are also all the antiquities around Kilmartin Glen just south of Oban.

I would second wasleys' recommendation for Mull. I was there in May of this year and loved it. I spent 4 nights on the island and could have spent more. Tobermory is just a delight with its gorgeous harbor and shops and lodgings that sit right next to ion the boardwalk. Iona was also wonderful and is well worth a day visit. The scenery on the island just lovely. I especially liked it because it did not have the crowds that are on Skye, although I don't think you'll have that problem in April.

Posted by
8 posts

Thank you for your thoughts . From the reading I have done it was my impression that the drive from Pitlochry to Glencoe is particularly beautiful. I was thinking of going to the Isle of Skye this trip as it will be in April and hopefully not so busy vs. going there in the summer, for example . I certainly can cut out a day in Edinburgh and delete Stirling ,St Andrews etc. and add a day in Isle of Skye . Does anyone have any suggestions for where to stay Glencoe vs. Oban ? Also has anyone been to Islay ? I am debating on a day trip vs. over night . Thank you for your input .

Posted by
47 posts

I spent six nights on Islay in 2017. I wouldn't want to go through all the hassle of getting there for just one night, let alone a daytrip! I would take that night and add it to Skye. Or you could break up your plan for April 16 into two days. I don't think that day is really feasible the way you have it laid out (eg. too much driving, not enough time to get out of the car and see anything).

Posted by
2305 posts

the drive from Pitlochry to Glencoe is particularly beautiful.

Actually that applies to nearly all the drives in Scotland, particularly on the west side....

In the time you have available, Islay is a non runne, unless you completey replan the holiday. It's a good excuse to come back!

Posted by
5210 posts

There is a restaurant in Edenburgh you might want to try. The name is Maison Bleue at 36 Victoria St. just off George IV Bridge St. just off High St. (The Royal Mile) and close to the castle. You can't miss the blue façade. Did not need reservations for lunch, bur reservations are advised for dinner. Small place, same ownership for years, and excellent food. Go to googlemaps.com, type in the address, and you'll be able to locate it easily. You can use the street view to "walk" to it before leaving home.

If you do make it to Oban, a place that has excellent sea food is The Waterfront Fishhouse.

Posted by
1701 posts

I can recommend staying in Glen Coe at the Glencoe Inn. The inn is across the street from Loch Leven, and has a bar and several restaurants. One of our best meals of the trip was at The Gathering located at the inn. Glen Coe is absolutely stunning! We loved this area of Scotland. One of our highlights was the drive down the Glen Etive road to Loch Etive. This is a 12-mile one-way road that ends at Loch Leven. The valley is so green and the road follows the Etive River. In June there were probably thousands of rhododendrons. This drive is considered one of the most beautiful drives in Scotland, and a scene from Skyfall was filmed here.
Here is a link to the Glen Etive Road.
https://www.ontheluce.com/glen-etive-road-scotland/

I would spend a minimum of 3 nights on Skye but 4 nights would be even better. We followed this 3-day driving itinerary (stayed 4 nights) which helped us stay organized, and ensured we didn't miss any highlights.
https://www.ontheluce.com/isle-of-skye-itinerary/

The Isle of Skye and Glen Coe are our two most favorite parts of the trip. The scenery in both places is unique and beautiful and will take your breath away. Skye is large so the crowds in June didn't deter from our enjoyment of our trip. April will be less crowded.

I do think that you have too much planned for this trip, and April 16 just seems impossible to me. I don't know anything about Moffat. And we did spend 2 nights in Anstruther on the Fife Coast and enjoyed it, but if it were me I think I would omit Moffat and Islay, and add those nights to Skye, and perhaps another night to Glen Coe, or Glasgow.

OR as Amy suggests, break up your plan for April 16 and spend a night somewhere. You could overnight in Crail. It's a short drive from Edinburgh, and the Fife Coast is beautiful with small fishing villages. And you can hike for a couple hours on the Fife Coastal Path.

Posted by
7977 posts

I don't know anything about Moffat. And we did spend 2 nights in Anstruther on the Fife Coast and enjoyed it, but if it were me I think I would omit Moffat and Islay, and add those nights to Skye, and perhaps another night to Glen Coe, or Glasgow.

What is it about this forum? People know nothing about a place so just say to omit it out of ignorance. Instead they stay on the same little well worn circuit which misses out huge parts of the country, rather than expanding horizons, or allowing others to do so, There are personal reasons why the OP wants to go to the Moffat area (although that reason is a bit further down the M74, maybe Lockerbie would better suit the OP's reasons). Either way Moffat is only about an hour south of Glasgow on the M74 and Lockerbie call it 90 minutes for ease. I used to do Carlisle to Gourock reliably in 2 hours. Yes crossing Glasgow you need to know which lane to be in on the freeway, and keep swapping lanes for the most efficient route but week on week it was the same timing. Carlisle to Abington services (north of Moffat) is 1 hour exactly. Abington services may be a functional place but does have a Harry Ramsden's fish and chip place!

There are some great undiscovered (to Americans, or the RS guides anyway) places in the south western and western Borders part of the country.

Coming from the West Highlands you would use the Erskine Bridge/M8/M74 route not the M8 Kingston Bridge route or the Great Western Road route into Glasgow.

It's the same with Islay. Far too few people on this forum go there, out of ignorance, because they are following the same little trail round the country, don't know how easy Islay is to get to, and don't know what is there. It is not to run down Skye or Glencoe, but there are equally good places in Scotland which are not just following the flock of sheep. People complain about crowds and how hard it is to find rooms on the likes of Skye. Well spread the load.

Posted by
2305 posts

Well said isn31c. Moffat is one of the undiscovered places in Scotland and is definitely worth visiting. There is some stunning scenery around there too and completely different to what has already been seen.

kmkwoo - add Moffat, along with Dumfries and Galloway to the itinerary for your next visit - you may be pleasantly suprised!

Posted by
1343 posts

Hi Kenneth -

“We would like to explore and go for some walks/hikes”

Glencoe is stuffed with brilliant walks, but, dependent on your definition of ‘walks/hikes’, not many of them are especially easy. I would refer you to the excellent resource of https://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/ which describes and grades the listed walks. I see many US hikers (and to be fair, many U.K. hikers too) walking in trail shoes, even on such mammoth treks at the AT, CDT and PCT, but while you might get away with them if conditions are favourable, boots are normally de rigeur for Scotland, because it’s usually wet underfoot and the terrain is often the type of sharp rocky stuff which will eat trail shoes, plus boots will give you ankle support, much needed for walking through heather and or bogs! The gabbro rock on Skye in the Black Cuillin will slice lumps off even the most durable boots. So something to think about, re footwear. And clothes too. Waterproofs and Windproofs a necessity unless you are only straying a couple of hundred metres from your car. There’s a ton of info on this very site about layering up for U.K. weather conditions, which I’m sure a quick search would bring up.

Finger wagging over, Glencoe is fantastic and Skye has some of the best walking in Britain if you are ambitious and reasonably fit! (For that reason alone I’d be tempted to stay on Skye longer, but I realise you are trying to squeeze the maximum out of the time available).

Ian

Posted by
1343 posts

P.S. Don’t miss the Hikers Bar at the Clachaig Inn in Glencoe. Noisy, rammed with slightly noxious (sweaty and grimy!) hikers, great ale, live music and good grub - get there early if you want a table!

Posted by
8 posts

I must say I really appreciate everyone's comments!! Clearly I have bitten off too much and will adjust. The funny thing is I originally was going to include the Orkney Islands also . Certainly I second trip is in order. ianandjulie luckily I have good hiking boots and rain gear having tested them in the Canadian Rockies . You mentioned AT,CDT and PCT I am sorry but I don't know what these are referring to .
Thanks again everyone all these tips are very helpful.

Posted by
7977 posts

AT-Appalachian Trail 2,200 miles eastern US from Georgia to Maine,
CDT- Continental Divide Trail 3100 miles Mexico to Canada, up the 'middle' of America,
PCT-Pacific Crest Trail 2700 miles Mexico to Canada up the west coast.

Posted by
1701 posts

To isn31c and Wasleys,
I would like to clarify my comments. I didn't mean to diss Moffat, and I apologize if that is how it sounds. And certainly venturing off the well worn beaten tourist path has its merits. I was just giving advice based on places that we visited and enjoyed. IMO, the OP's itinerary is too busy, and I think most people agree. So when advising someone that their itinerary is too busy and perhaps they should omit a destination, it's only normal, I think, to recommend the places that person has visited. I really can't recommend Moffat since I haven't been there, and I wanted to be honest and admit I haven't been there.

The problem that we all have when traveling is that there never is enough time to visit every place, and most people have to make the difficult decision of what to omit.

I am sure that if we have the opportunity to return to Scotland and we decide to visit Moffat, that we would enjoy it very much.

I do understand how you feel and why you are frustrated to hear the comment I made. As an example, I get frustrated when I hear people on this forum advise people not to visit Malaga, Spain, because it allegedly is nothing more than a transportation hub. They say that because that is how Rick treats Malaga, when in fact, Malaga is a wonderful place to visit with so much to see and do.

Posted by
8 posts

kmkwoo thank you for your clarification. You are correct everyone has said I am ( was ) trying to do too much. This forum has been very helpful in deciding what is realistic and my original plan was not.

Posted by
2305 posts

Thank you for that clarification kmkwoo. - Many people when answering a question about a possible itinerary just love to tell the OP what they have done, regardless whether it is helpful or not. We need to look at the needs of the OP and try and address them.

Posted by
7977 posts

But somewhere in all of this I would like the OP to get to his ancestral home near to Moffat. The exact location has been confirmed, as has the fact that it still exists, quite close to the M74. He has expressed that wish, and having come so far it would be a shame for him to miss the chance, for the sake of a 1/2 day round trip from Glasgow, if that is all the time spare in the final analysis.

Posted by
8 posts

Does anyone have a suggestion on where to rent a car and which company ? Also will a USA drivers license suffice ?
Thank you

Posted by
2305 posts

Arnold Clark, or their US subsiduary Celtic Legend are highly recommended. You won't want a car in Edinburgh so hire the day you leave, picking up from Edinburgh Airport and do a one way hire dropping off at Glasgow Airport.

Posted by
19 posts

A US driver's license will suffice. In September 2023, we rented an excellent car from Arnold Clark. We booked it in January 2023 through Celtic Legend whose knowledgeable agents were quick to respond and provided added value. Enjoy your travels!

Posted by
63 posts

Since you want to hike in Scotland, have you considered checking out Macs Adventures?

They will set up an itinerary so you can hike from inn-to-inn and they will transport your bags for you, so you only need to carry a day pack. You can choose from a a range of excursions, from easy to difficult.

We've heard great things about Macs. It has a loyal following. We booked a trip with them to hike the West Highland Trail (10 days, 11 nights) next Fall with some added time in Glasgow, Isle of Skye, and Edinburgh.

Might be worth a look.

Posted by
2305 posts

They may be an excellent company Deborah, but I don’t see where they would fit into the itinerary Kenneth is proposing...

Posted by
63 posts

@wasleys, no worries. Macs has lots of options and is great about customizing to fit any timeline or plan. Not sure it's the right solution in this case, but I figure folks are like me and appreciate any sorts of tips. You never know what might end up being the perfect solution for that person, right?