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Itinerary: Edinburgh--Fort William--Portree--Inverness

My wife and I are planning a trip to Scotland for the first time. We are physically fit and love scenic day hikes. We are not drinkers, so not interested in distillery tours.

Our current plan is...

  • 2 nights in Edinburgh (arrival city and one full day touring)
  • 3 nights in Fort William (Loch Lomond & The Trossachs National Park on the way, a couple of days hiking in the area)
  • 4 nights in Portree (hiking on the Isle of Sky)
  • 2 nights in Inverness (Loch Ness and the area)
  • Back to Edinburgh for an evening flight

Here's where we lack confidence in our plan...

  • Is driving to Fort William after visiting The Trossachs National Park too much, or would you recommend staying in Glencoe? While it is backtracking, we planned to drive back over to Glencoe, from Fort William, for a day of activity to minimize nights in different towns. However, I will gladly defer to the judgment of those who are familiar with the area and recommend a night or two in Glencoe before moving on to Fort William.

  • Should we spend three nights or four nights in Portree?

  • Is Inverness and the area worth seeing for a couple of days after being in Portree, or is there somewhere else we should see instead on our way back to Edinburgh?

Thanks for your experienced advice!

Posted by
1549 posts

Hi, bigtex-1836,

Battle of the Alamo?

I think that your trip to Fort William depends on how much time you want to spend in the Trossachs. Many people who visit the Trossachs make the main part of their visit a boat ride on Loch Katrine aboard the Sir Walter Scott. If that's your plan, it's a two hour voyage. The Walt traverses the length of the loch, and if you want to hike back from Stronachlachar, it's about 12 miles on a relatively easy trail and paved road. You can also hire a bicycle for the return trip. If you're just looking for hiking, there are some really good hiking trails in the Trossachs. Most of them are fairly easy, and can be found on the WalkHighlands website.

From the Trossachs to Fort William is about a two hour drive via the A85/A84/A82. That will take you straight through Glencoe. Fort William is not that far from Glencoe, and there is a much greater choice of accommodation, so even if it means doubling back a little, you'd most likely be better off basing yourselves in Fort William for three days. You'd most likely end up seeing things that you'd missed on your first time through Glencoe.

The amount of nights you'll want to stay in Portree depends on how much you want to see. Based on previous experience, I'd say that three nights are adequate, four nights are even better. If you're planning to do a lot of hiking on Skye, there are many partial or full day hikes available. Again, the WalkHighlands website will give you a pretty good idea of what's available, although there are some good ones which aren't on the website. Raasay is good for a day by itself.

Once you leave Skye, you can spend the better part of your departure day heading up the west coast (God's Country - sorry, Texas!) on your way to Inverness. Once you cross the bridge, drive through Duirinish and Plockton, over the hill to Lochcarron, then follow the A896 to Kinlochewe, and on to Inverness from there. For a great side trip, you could take the Bealach-na-Ba pass to Applecross, then take the coast road around to Shieldaig. There are some good hikes in the Beinn Eighe/Glen Torridon area.

If you want to see the best of Loch Ness on your way south (If you decide to travel south along the loch), it's actually best seen from the eastern shore via the B862/B852, through Dores and Foyers. That will dump you out on to the A82 at Fort Augustus, which you can follow back south. However, you will be going back through Fort William and Glencoe, which you've already seen

For a slightly different return journey from Inverness, you could take the A96 to Nairn, the A939 to Ballater, and the A93 south through Glenshee and Blairgowrie, picking up the motorway to Edinburgh at Perth. That would give you a different perspective.

Whichever routes you decide to take, have a wonderful time in Scotland!

Best wishes and safe travels,

Mike (Auchterless)

p.s.: I'm assuming that you'll be taking the A830 from Fort William to Mallaig, and the ferry over to Armadale, then leaving Skye via the bridge. If that is your plan, please be sure to make a reservation for the ferry, and give yourselves enough time to visit some of the beautiful beaches along the way.

Posted by
6 posts

Thank you for such a detailed response!

This is really helpful (especially for a Texan!).

Posted by
8515 posts

Raasay is good for a day by itself.

I definitely agree with Mike! I loved Raasay and highly recommend visiting there for some hiking. It's an easy 20+ minute ferry ride from Sconser on Skye, and it is usually blessedly uncrowded. I would keep the extra night in Portree just for the joy of visiting Raasay. :-) https://raasay.com/

Posted by
2430 posts

Is Inverness and the area worth seeing for a couple of days after being in Portree

It is very different to Portree. There's plenty to do and see in the area:

• Culloden Battlefield - site of the last battle to be fought on British soil

• Clava Cairns - believed to be the inspiration for Craig na Dun in the very popular TV series ’Outlanders’

• Fort George - possibly the mightiest artillery fortification in Britain, built after the Battle of Culloden to control the Highlands and crush any future Jacobite rebellions. Also you may be luck and see bottle nose dolphns from the ramparts

• Black Isle - still undiscovered with some attractive small villages (Cromarty) and a cloutie well...

Glen Affric and Glen Cannich - two of the prettiest glens in Scotland and still unspoilt with some lovely walks.

A bit further to drive is Elgin with its ruined abbey, Dornoch with its catedral where madonn'a son was christened, Newtonmore with its fascinating Folk Museum, Aviemore, centre for outdoor adventures and walks or the Strathspey Steam Railway

There's loads to do and see and it is very different to other places on the itinerary. Inverness is the main centre for the area with a lot of choice of accommodation. Some people love the city, others are scathing about it... (I lIke it.) If you wanted to stay somewhere smaller, think about Nairn on the coast, Beauly a small town with a ruined abbey or Strathpeffer, a Victorian spa town...

If you haven't already come across the Undiscovered Scotland website , it is well worth spending time on it. It covers lots of places that never feature in the guide books. Start with the relevant map page and follow the links to text pages with pictures and lots of information.

The Walk Highlands website is the walkers 'Bible'