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Inexperienced traveller needs advice

Hello…. I am being treated to a trip to Scotland by my son and need some guidance with planning. I have very little travel experience and I've never been out of the States. He is taking care of the travel arrangements and lodging, but I am deciding what to see and where to go. I'd like to know if I'm over-planning or making some other rookie mistakes. We are meeting in London because he wants to see the city and do a side trip to Stonehenge.

Here is the plan thus far:

April 30

Arrive Gatwick 9 a.m., take train to London where my son should be waiting. (Victoria Station I believe.) Since I’ll likely be jet lagged, we will do something easy like a bus tour of the city, maybe some walking around depending on how tired I am.

May 1

More sightseeing, such as Westminster Abbey, the Tower, Buckingham Palace, and I must see Jimmy Page’s house LOL. I don’t know what else. Suggestions welcome.

May 2 & 3

Edinburgh by train, arrive 2:15 pm. I would like to visit Edinburgh Castle, Roslyn Chapel, the Royal Mile, the nearby abbey ruins whose name escapes me at the moment, the National Gallery Museum, as many castle ruins as we can fit in such as Dirleton. Are two days enough?

May 4

Rent car and drive to Glen Coe. I would like to stop at Stirling on the way, and also an abandoned village called Lawers. Depending on what time we arrive, maybe do one of the easy walks and/or walk about the town a bit. Spend night.

May 5
Hiking/walking. Spend the night.

May 6
Drive to Skye, stop in Fort William. (I think there was a hike to a waterfall I wanted to do) After FW, Eileen Donan castle. Anyone know the minimum time I should plan to spend at the castle? After that, we head to Skye and spend the night. Too much for one day? I can skip FW if so.

May 7
Fairy Pool hike. My son wants to see some cliffs and there are two places on Skye. Can we do both in one day?

May 8 Skye
I’m not sure what to do here. Should we spend another day on Skye? Is there enough worth exploring for nearly 3 days? If not, we will head back to Edinburgh today rather than tomorrow.

May 9
Undecided.

May 10 thru 12 (Tentative)
We are toying with the idea of taking the train to Paris, spend two nights, and head back to London on the 12th. I am a little concerned we are trying to do too much, but I would sure love to go. Advice please.

May13th, do the side trip to Stonehenge. Spend night in London.

May 14

Train to Gatwick then fly home.

The only things that are written in stone are my flight dates, London hotel for the first two nights, and the train to Edinburgh is booked - unless those are refundable.

Question: We are planning to drive back to Edinburgh, drop the car off, and either fly or take a train back to London, whichever is less expensive. If anyone knows a better way of going about getting back to London, I’m all ears.

Just looking to make this trip as enjoyable and hassle free as possible. I welcome any suggestions from experienced travellers, especially those days I’m not sure what to do with (8th & 9th). Thank you!

Marianne

Posted by
5687 posts

I'm a big Beatles fan, and on my first trip to London I did a Beatles walking tour which was a lot of fun. Is there such a thing as a Led Zeppelin tour? Could be - I would check into it (google for it).

I would try to walk and stay active that first day to keep awake - and try to go to bed at normal bed time in the UK, to try to adjust to the time zone more quickly. Just a personal preference.

I did a quick train train trip to Paris on my first trip to London. For me it worked out great (helps that I love trains), and I loved Paris. So I wouldn't rule it out, but some would say you are trying to do too much. If you have an undecided day in the UK, why not add it to Paris? Three nights would be better than two to get a feel for Paris, which is huge.

Posted by
545 posts

I can address some of your Scotland plans.
May 2 & 3 Edinburgh - If you're arriving at 2:15 pm on May 2, you don't have two days, you actually have less than 1.5 days. I think this is a lot to try and do in that time. Edinburgh Castle is worth at least a couple of hours. You can experience the Royal Mile by walking up it to go to the Castle. Roslyn Chapel is a 30-minute drive from Edinburgh city center. That trip is close to half a day right there. That National Gallery is lovely, I would think you'd need at least 1.5 hours there. Not sure where the castle ruins you're referring to are, so hard to say how long that will take. You may want to prioritize your "must see" sites and your "like to see" sites in Edinburgh. Visiting all these places may be possible, but think how much time you'd realistically like to spend at each one.

If you're going back to Edinburgh on May 8 or 9 and staying another day, then you should be able to see some of the sites then.

You have a good itinerary for the rest of the time in Scotland. Stirling Castle is really cool. I liked it a little better than Edinburgh Castle. Glencoe is really beautiful. Just take into consideration your activity level and what you're used to. Looks like you're planning a good amount of hiking. Allow some time to rest if you need it. Scotland is wonderful, enjoy your trip!

Posted by
1219 posts

For your days 2&3 you have too much. Edinburgh Castle is great to see. The Abbey you are referring to - is it the ruins of the one that is kind of attached to Holyrood? If so you don't have enough time, skip it. I loved Roslyn Chapel but it takes a lot to get to and back from. Craigmillar Castle is only 3 miles from the city center and a lovely ruined castle. If you decide to go to Dirleton though (one of my faves) make sure to also go to Tantallon nearby (also one of my faves).

Skye - I would say a couple of hours for Eilan Donan, have tea there with the view of the castles, water, and hills beyond. Lovely. On Skye you'll want to visit Dunvegan Castle and its spread out gardens and paths. I believe you can also do some sort of wildlife watching thing, and there are some more remote brochs you can visit.

I think adding in Paris is a bit much. There is a lot more you could see in Scotland before heading back down to London. Suggestions would be Oban with a trip to Iona etc... more things using Edinburgh as your base. Give me ideas of what else you might like - more nature, ruined castles, etc....

Posted by
1376 posts

Hi, scullyitsme.

First of all, I'm not Mulder!

I haven't been to London in over 20 years, so I can't be of much help there. I only use Heathrow as a transfer point on my way to Glasgow.

But I can make some recommendations for Scotland. First of all, you could spend two months in Edinburgh, and not see everything, so pick out a few, as you've done, and save the rest for the next time. Roslyn Chapel is some miles outside the city. As you won't have the car until later, you'd need at least a half day to get there by bus, visit, and get back in to town. However, there is so much to see and do. If you only have two days, I'd recommend the castle, the National Museum of Scotland, Holyrood Palace, the Royal Yacht Britannia, and a walk down the Royal Mile, taking in as many of the closes (alleyways) as possible. If you have time, the Grassmarket, Greyfriars Kirkyard, and Princes' Street Gardens. This may sound like a lot, but the historical center of Edinburgh is in a fairly compact area. Also, if you have the energy, a hike up Arthur's Seat and Calton Hill for great views of the city.

To get from Edinburgh to Stirling, take the M8 west to the first exit, which is the M9, going toward Stirling. Or you can take the A8 past the airport and the Royal Highland Fairgrounds. That will also take you to the M9. Once you get to the big roundabout outside Stirling, follow signs for the town centre. It is very easy to get lost driving in to Stirling. If all else fails, look for signs for the A9.

Leave Stirling by way of the A84, going toward Callander. When you get to Lochearnhead, the A84 becomes the A85. Go north for 5 miles until you come to the A827, for Killin. Go through Killin, and about another 8 miles to Lawers. The locals will be surprised to know that their village is abandoned, but there is an older part of the village, off the beaten track, where you can see some of the ruins. There are abandoned villages all over Scotland, particularly as you go farther north and west.

To get to Glencoe, go back to the A85, and follow it to Crainlarich, where it merges with the A82. Follow the A82 north from Tyndrum, and head north to Glencoe and Ballachulish. The A85 strikes west at this point, heading toward Oban.

After you visit Glencoe, it's a short drive to Fort William. If you haven't already made solid plans for this part of the trip, I'd recommend taking the A830 from Fort William to Mallaig, then catching the CalMac ferry to Skye. You can then visit Eilean Donan Castle when you leave Skye. Be sure to reserve a spot on the ferry for your hired car.

Once you've spent your time on Skye, you can leave by the Skye Bridge (A87), which will take you right by Loch Duich and Eilean Donan.

On Skye, the Fairy Pools walk is relatively easy, and very attractive. The Glenbrittle road is narrow, and is a single lane road with marked passing places. The Fairy Pools have become extremely popular, and parking is hard to come by. There is a small car park, but most people just pull off the road, and park wherever they can. Try for the car park, though. There are no public conveniences (toilets) anywhere nearby. The nearest good ones are at the Talisker Distillery in Carbost. As your son is interested in cliffs, the most stunning ones are on the Duirinish Peninsula, which you can reach from the B884, which leaves the main A863 road just before Dunvegan. A hike out to the Neist Point Lighthouse will reveal a lot of them. You can also drive down to the farm at Ramasaig, and park there, then hike on the farm track out to the abandoned village of Lorgill. This was home to about 150 islanders, who were evicted during the Clearances.

If you have time on Skye, I'd recommend a trip on the Bella Jane, out of Elgol. You'll cross Loch Scavaig, in to the heart of the Cuillins.

Posted by
1376 posts

The Bella Jane will drop you off at the south end of Loch Coruisk, and you'll have a chance to either stay on the boat for the return journey, or get off and stay on land for 1 1/2, 3, or 6 hours. I'd recommend 1 1/2 hours. Loch Coruisk is amazing.

Also, you can do the Fairy Pools and Duirinish Peninsula in one day, and possibly still have time to visit the Quiraing. But don't try to pack too much in in one day. You're there to enjoy the scenery, which is absolutely stunning!

Whatever you decide to do, have a wonderful time!

Mike (auchterless)

p.s.: The A830 from Fort William to Mallaig is absolutely brilliant, especially as you head farther west. I'd advise going this way, then the A87 leaving Skye, to avoid backtracking. Or you can reverse the journey - A87 to Skye, then the ferry back.

Posted by
5 posts

Thanks to everyone for your input! It is extremely helpful and I'll take everything into consideration. I'm leaning toward leaving Paris out of the equation. I don't think we will run out of things to do or see in Scotland LOL.

Re: Roslyn Chapel....if we get a rental car when we first arrive in Edinburgh and drive to Roslyn instead of taking a bus (which someone said would take up half the day), how long will it take to get there and back, roughly?

Mike said, "After you visit Glencoe, it's a short drive to Fort William. If you haven't already made solid plans for this part of the trip, I'd recommend taking the A830 from Fort William to Mallaig, then catching the CalMac ferry to Skye. You can then visit Eilean Donan Castle when you leave Skye. Be sure to reserve a spot on the ferry for your hired car."

Thanks for the tip, Mike. How far ahead is it necessary to book a spot on the ferry for the car?

Posted by
6113 posts

If you mean May 2018, which I think you do, I would be very concerned about finding accommodation on Skye at this late stage, so that should be your priority. Some of it gets booked up nearly a year ahead. There is more than enough to keep you occupied on Skye for three full days.

Personally, I would leave Paris for a separate trip when you can give it more time.

Posted by
1376 posts

Hi, scully,

If you hire a car for the start of your visit to Edinburgh, Roslyn would take approximately 30 minutes each way. However, you'd need to balance the cost of having the car for two extra days, against the cost of just going out to Roslyn in a taxi. Plus, if your accommodation in Edinburgh doesn't provide free parking, you'd have that additional cost, as well. I just did a quick look, and it's about 18 pounds one way to Roslyn from Waverly Station. It may be more or less from your accommodation, depending on whether you're in New Town, Old Town, or somewhere down around Minto Street.

Good on you for considering taking the trip to Skye on the CalMac ferry. The A830 is one of the prettiest roads in Scotland. If you're traveling in May, I'd recommend making the reservation as soon as possible. Go to the Caledonian MacBrayne website, and click on Summer Timetables. It's a bit convoluted, but you'll eventually find the Mallaig to Armadale schedule under "Skye and the Inner Hebrides." Check the schedule from Mallaig to Armadale, find the time when you think that you'll be arriving in Mallaig, and make a reservation for the sailing after that. In other words, whatever time you think that you'll be arriving in Mallaig, don't schedule the next sailing. Go for the one after that. You're bound to want to stop along the 830, or you may want to have a quick look around Mallaig before boarding.

Once you've decided which sailing you want to go for, go the link for purchasing tickets. It's easy from there. When you are asked for the vehicle information, click on "car" and "registration unknown," as you'll have a hired car. Once you've done everything, you can either print out the reservation, or have them hold it at the ticket office in Mallaig. If you go the latter route, please be sure to bring the confirmation number with you.

The first town that you'll come to on Skye is Broadford. There's an excellent supermarket (the Co-op) in the center of town, if you need to stock up, and I'd recommend the Cafe Sia, on the left next to the post office, if you're looking for a tasty, inexpensive meal. Try the Highland Melt.

As someone else pointed out here, I hope that you've made reservations for accommodations on Skye. It has become a tourist hotspot, and deservedly so. However, if you're unable to find accommodation, you can still spend a day on Skye, and enjoy it. You could always try calling the Tourist Information office in Portree. From the US, its 011 44 1478 612992. They may be able to make recommendations.

Enjoy your holiday!

Mike (auchterless)

Posted by
1376 posts

Hi again, Scully,

As of right now, the Kings Arms Hotel in Kyleakin has a twin room available for your dates. It ain't the Ritz, but it would provide easy access to the Skye Bridge for your trip to Eilean Donan. There may be other accommodation further north on Skye.

Mike

Posted by
5 posts

Thank you, Jennifer. I had assumed that finding a room wouldn’t be a problem because Rick Steves said finding accommodations this time of year isn’t a problem like it is in August. I agree that Paris should wait for another time.

Thanks for all the info, Mike! 👍 I used a link I found in a conversation on this site re: Skye to search for a room, and only found one match in central Skye (which is the fairy pool area I believe) but it was insanely expensive. There were only 8 matches on the entire island, all over budget. If it was just one night....but I’m looking for three. My son is going to check Airbnb, but if nothing pans out. I was going to ask about staying somewhere near the bridge but I see you already thought of that. Thank you so much, I will check it out right now.

Posted by
5 posts

I misunderstood. I thought Kyleakin was on the mainland, not Skye. If we had to go that route and take the bridge every day, in what town should I look for a room?

Posted by
1376 posts

Kyle of Lochalsh, Dornie, Plockton, Stromeferry, for starters. But try calling the information office in Portree. They may have places that aren't on the internet. They found a B&B for us a few years ago, when we were running out of luck.

Good luck!

Mike

Posted by
4153 posts

Who's doing the driving? Who can drive a stick shift..sitting on the right side of the car...driving on the left side of the road? Have you two researched the wonders of driving in the UK? Who will be the navigator?

Here's a link to get you started. I'm sure there are many more.

I haven't driven, but I've ridden in the front passenger seat...on the left. Nothing felt all that strange, not even the traffic circles or the one lane roads with hedgerows and pull outs so people can pass each other, until we turned right across traffic. I know it's the equivalent of turning left in the States, but it felt very weird.

Posted by
1376 posts

Hi, scully,

I have to assume that your son is doing the majority of the driving. It takes about an hour to a day to get used to shifting with your left hand and keeping to the left. As a frequent visitor to Britain (mostly Scotland) I can honestly say that once you get used to it, and know what to do at the roundabouts, you'll have a blast!

Mike

Posted by
5 posts

Thank you, Mike...I will do that. 👍

Lo, my son will be driving and fairly certain he can drive a standard trans. But I will double check to be sure and send him the link. Thank you for your input. 😊

Posted by
1376 posts

Hi again, scully,

If you're not too fussy about where you stay, the Broadford Youth Hostel could be worth a shot. It's not just for young people. They have private twins and family rooms, with H&C (a sink), I believe, although you'd have to share toilets and showers with the other guests.

If you do call the tourist office in Portree, let them know what you're looking for in the way of accommodation, i.e.: twin or two singles, en-suite, B&B or hotel, and how much you're prepared to pay. Most B&Bs on Skye are going to charge 80 to 90 pounds per night for en-suite, and 60 to 80 pounds for a room with a shared bathroom. The pound is currently trading at about $1.40, so 80 pounds would be $112.00.

There are several really good B&Bs in Lower Breakish, so perhaps the tourist office could check those for you, or at least give you telephone numbers to call.

Again, good luck!

Mike

Posted by
1376 posts

Just checked the King's Arms again, in Kyleakin. They have en-suite twins for approximately 100 pounds per night for the time that you're there. I think that they've gone the "hotels.com" route, as every link refers me to a booking website. Trivago.co.uk gave me 100 pounds/night, with VAT included. The U.S. websites all give me $118.00/night, with taxes tacked on.

Check out the TripAdvisor reviews before you book there, if you do. But first try for something more centrally located.

Mike

Posted by
1376 posts

Also, if you don't have any luck at the TI office in Portree, the TI office in Broadford may be able to help. 011 44 1471 822713.

Posted by
1376 posts

The Edinbane Inn, which is a really nice small hotel, has a room available for the nights of the 7th., 8th., and 9th. of May, although you'd have to switch rooms after the first night. Unfortunately, they're 150 pounds ($210.00) per night, and they only have one king bed in the room. I'm sure that you're looking for a twin or two singles, so don't give up hope.

Mike

p.s.: I think that the waterfall which you mentioned near Fort William may be An Steall Falls. The waterfall is a short hike up Glen Nevis. The track is a bit rough in places, so wear sturdy footwear.