Hiking the West Highland Itinerary? Recommendations needed to

We used Contour Walking Holidays booking service:
https://www.contours.co.uk/west-highland-way-trail
Contours has options from 5 nights/5 walking days to 10 nights/ 9 walking days. We did the moderate 9 nights/8 walking day option breaking the Tyndrum to Kinghouse leg into two days of 9 +10 mile walking in place of the usual 19 mile day across the Rannock Moor.

The usual options is the 7 or 8 walking day. A pair of English walkers who started when we started finished a day early then baged Ben Nevis to end their holiday.

The full WHW gives you an interesting south to north cross section of the highlands. Do the full WHW.

Contours note:

Please note that accommodation along the West Highland Way is in
extremely high demand, so be sure to await confirmation of your
booking before making firm travel plans. May 2022 is now fully
booked.

As an additional side-effect of this high demand, accommodation
providers at the Kingshouse and Bridge of Orchy overnight stops have
limited availability for their standard rooms. If these rooms are not
available transfers to nearby accommodation will be provided.
Alternatively if you are happy to pay an upgrade supplement to stay at
these two locations please advise this on your booking form. NB: We
will request payment for any upgrade supplement upfront.

Kingshouse also has a two night minimum booking policy at weekends
therefore when planning your holiday dates we would advise to avoid
arriving at Kingshouse on a Friday or Saturday night, unless you
require an extra night there. An upgrade supplement may still apply
for a two night stay.

A few years ago Kinghouse was closed while being renovated. Contours had to arrange transfers to off the trail lodging.

Hi Steph -

It was a fair while ago now but The West Highland Way was one of the most enjoyable trails I’ve done. Six of us went, all good friends, and none of us hiking ‘newbies’. I booked the stopovers independently and it involved some eccentric places as of necessity as given the popularity of the route, finding somewhere convenient for six people turned out to be harder than you’d think. So given it’s increased popularity in the intervening years, I think I’d be inclined to book through a specialist company as they will have the task of finding you accommodation in the relevant places which will make life easier for you, plus they’ll also have facility for ‘packhorseing’ your main luggage from stage to stage. We carried all our own gear the full length of the trail, but we were young and fancied ourselves ‘hard men (and women) of the hills’ back then. Not sure we’d be so hardcore now!

Our itinerary was as follows:

Day 1 - To Glasgow. overnight in hotel in ‘Merchant’s Quarter’.
Day 2 - Train to Milngavie from Glasgow. Purchase two large Selkirk Bannocks for lunch and walk to Drymen. There’s a large Hotel there but we ended up in a B&B. Or rather two of us did and the other four slept in a small caravan in the garden (if you’ve ever seen ‘Father Ted’ - and you should! - specifically the episode where Frs. Ted and Dougal go on holiday and end up sharing a tiny caravan with Fr. Noel Furlong and his youth group, well, it was a bit like that!). I think we couldn’t climb Conic Hill because of stalking - it was June - and we were diverted through Balmaha as I recall.
Day 3 - Drymen to The Rowardennan Hotel halfway up Loch Lomond. This was for my money, THE hardest day of the walk despite appearances on the map. The path up Loch Lomond is slow and hard going. We got to Rowardennan at about 4.00 pm. Four of us crashed. Me and my friend Kevin decided we could do a rapid ascent of Ben Lomond. It was nuts but we did it. I may have gone into shock over dinner. When asked why I wasn’t drinking my pint of Deuchars Eighty Shilling but merely holding it, I observed that it may have been holding me up.
Day 4 - Rowardennan to Ardlui. Not a huge day but views opening up to Ben Arthur (‘The Cobbler’) and the Arrochar Alps across the Loch. Novelty value in hoisting the red buoy up a pole on a Loch side beach to summon the ferry from Ardlui on the other side of the Loch. Most head a bit further to the Drovers Inn at Inveraran, but we couldn’t all get in. We stayed at what was known locally as ‘McGregor’s Folly’ a sort of B&B cum hostel. It had a heroic lounge with bar. It most likely went broke - I passed later on the way to Fort William and it had become an outdoor pursuits centre - entirely predictable given the exceedingly generous measures of single malt Scotch poured at the bar!
Day 5 - Ardlui to Tyndrum. A long, relatively dull day as I recall. Particularly the route into Tyndrum which never seemed to get any closer. Stayed at the Tyndrum Hotel - I think. Didn’t leave a huge impression but did the job!
Day 6 - Tyndrum to Inveroran. A relatively short day that saw us arrive at The Hunters Lodge (Inveroran Hotel) around lunchtime, or just after. It’s in the middle of nowhere so not much to do. So four of us went out Munro bagging and climbed Stob A Coire Odhar, overlooking Rannoch Moor and the mountains behind Glencoe. We sat on the summit and had stupendous views over Rannoch Moor and down towards Glencoe. There was a small snow shower. It really was June!
Day 7 - Inveroran to Kinlochleven. Across Rannoch Moor and through Glencoe. Always fabulous! Four followed the trail, me and Kevin (again!) followed the River Coupar (I think!) for a while so Kevin could get some good photos of Buchaille Etive Mhor. A sensational mountain! Reunited, we headed over The Devil’s Staircase to Kinlochleven. Ascent not too bad actually descent longer than you expect/would like!

Day 7 continued - Couldn’t get six of us all in anywhere in Kinlochleven but one landlady said she could find rooms for us all so we handed ourselves over to the Kinlochleven B&B Mafia who split us into three pairs throughout the village. We reassembled for Dinner at the Tailrace Inn but the high/low point of the evening occurred when Kevin dared Julie to go into the dodgy looking Antler Bar. As Kevin found to his cost you don’t dare my wife to do anything. Despite the presence of Julie I think I may have been chatted up by a local lady a bit older than myself, despite my being no spring chicken, or come to that, oil painting!
Day 8 - Kinlochleven to Fort William. A lovely day as I remember, shorts and t-shirts as I recall. Once above the climb out of Kinlochleven in the flat Glen, three of us enlivened the day by hiding our bags down by the river and climbing Beinn Na Caillich. We could have gone along the ridge and dropped down further on but having left our bags we retraced our steps and pursued the rest of the group to Fort William. We stayed in a B&B in the centre of Fort William.
Day 9 - Ben Nevis climb. Shorts and t-shirts again but summit of Ben in cloud - it’s clear on average twelve days a year - and snow on top. Went via Tourist Route but care needed near top as there is plenty of ‘plummet potential’ for the unwary. Back to same B&B overnight.
Day 10 - Bus from Fort William to Glasgow, then trains home. Bus rammed. Probably wouldn’t get away with it now (or would you?) but recall sitting on floor of coach for part of journey at least. Wasn’t offered a discount - the expression ‘a grip like a Scotsman on a five pound note’ is well founded!

About those companies who organise the trek - there are loads but try Mickledore, Contours (oft recommended here) or Macs Adventures (who, unless I miss my guess, organised Mr Steves Tour Du Mont Blanc) as a starting point. Hope you’ve found something of interest here! Have a great trip -“Scotland’s fae me!”

Ian

"Would you recommend going on the entire trail or the latter half?"

I have not personally done the WHW (only parts as day trips). My understanding is that the northern half is the most difficult, which is why it is suggested that you start in the south and "walk" your way into fitness for the second half. Of course if you are already fit and experienced you could skip the southern half. When we did our hill walking in the west highlands we stayed at HF Holiday's house in Glencoe. While there a HF Holidays group doing the WHW came through and we chatted with them. HF Holidays made all of their arrangements and transported their luggage. The group is also guided. We very much enjoyed our stay with HF Holidays and the WHW folks we talked to were also quite pleased with the organization.

We returned from Fort Williams to Glasgow via the West Highland Line train. What a contrast back tracking our week plus walking scenery in a few hours by train.
https://www.seat61.com/west-highland-line.htm

Man in Seat 61: "Readers of Wanderlust Magazine voted for the
wonderful West Highland line from Glasgow to Fort William & Mallaig as
the world's best train journey. Rightly so in my opinion, as the West
Highland Line is not only the most scenic train route in Britain, it's
one of my favourite journeys anywhere"

We hiked the entire length about 3 years ago; we booked with Contours who made reservations and provided luggage transport -- hiked 8 days. We were 4 adults over 60, and although we are all very active, we also decided to take a rest day in Tyndrum after 4 days of hiking. We took the train to Oban for the day and it was wonderful. That was one of my all-time favorite vacations, despite the hard rain on several days. If you have the time, I think it is worth it to do the entire trail. After finishing in Fort William, we took the bus to Inverness, rented a car and went to the Isle of Skye before finishing in Edinburgh. It was awesome!

The West Highland Way is one of the six walking trips that we've booked through Mickledore Travel. We stayed an extra day and climbed Ben Nevis which I recommend as well.

Ian
I love your account of your trip! You had me laughing out loud and chortling throughout. I particularly enjoyed your description of the Kinlochleven B&B mafia. It's like that here on Skye sometimes when we get requests for larger numbers of guests than we can accommodate. We all phone round to try to fix everyone up with somewhere to stay. My husband has done the WH way and recognised many of the places and descriptions from your write up, although he didn't bag any extra Munroes on the way. Kudos to you from him.

I don't think the Citylink bus drivers would allow you to sit on the floor anymore. It's pretty much rebooked seats only. Although many of the drivers fit your description only too well!

Best wishes
Jacqui (Skyegirl)

Thanks Jacqui -

I think if you are going to give a full itinerary it might as well attempt to be entertaining as well as informative! I forgot to mention that we had a diversion off route to Crianlarich Station where we literally ate all the cake! I did a commemorative t-shirt for us when we got back and it describes us as not so much as a group of hikers, more a plague of locusts!

I really enjoyed the West Highland Way, it was enormous fun, but Oh! - to be as fit as I was then! Although a couple of years back we did climb from the shores of Loch Leven at Callert House over the shoulder of Mam Na Guaillin (the other end of the ridge Beinn Caillich is on) in knee deep snow to meet the WHW in Larrigmor and follow it back to Kinlochleven. That was an interesting, if exhausting day out!

Ian

Thanks to all for the very helpful info and tips!

I love this forum and it has now helped us on a previous trip to Iceland and now our future trip to Scotland.

I agree with Jacqui, Ian’s account of the itinerary was informative and entertaining. I could imagine myself as part of your travel group having a blast! We definitely plan to hire a tour company so our self guided tour is set with a bed at night and not lugging luggage along the trail.

We are in our early 60’s and very fit, as well as hikers/walkers. However, I think we need to go into a bit of physical training to at least build endurance!! Sounds like we may be challenged along the trail. We are traveling early October so hopefully cool weather and no midges!!

Thanks again for all the information and sharing of your experiences. We can’t wait to go!!
Happy travels,
Stephanie

Hi Steph -

You should be OK in October but be prepared for all eventualities. So lots of layers - it could be Mediterranean or Arctic in October, both in the same day! Head to toe waterproofs and I always carry a pair of knee length gaiters in case the weather is dry but the going is wet. Trekking poles I never leave home without. I see many US hikers on You Tube on, say, the Appalachian Trail, wearing what I would term trail shoes, and while it’s entirely up to you, I would suggest these won’t cut the mustard on the West Highland Way and certainly the further north you go, the more you’ll need a hiking boot. Needn’t be a ‘summit-ting Everest’ type boot but certainly with a rugged sole and waterproof, or at least water resistant upper.

If you are fit and used to hiking there’s nothing you won’t be able to manage, it’s just time on feet you need to get used to - you’ll know from your itinerary the daily mileage and, if it’s detailed the amount of ascent and descent required on each stage. Though it is in the company of very large hills, mostly the WHW sticks to the valleys (sorry, glens!). Make sure you have food and drink with you when you set out every morning. It is something of a surprising theme, at least to northern National Trails in the U.K. that they try and avoid centres of habitation and, for such a crowded island, the trails manage it quite successfully. That’s not to say there won’t be any opportunities to get stuff en route, but it’s better to have and not need than need and not have - our ‘Crianlarich Cake diversion’ was born of a touch of desperation!

You are right that the midges should have disappeared by October. That said, would I risk not carrying a midge head net? For what they weigh, not on your life! (Any self respecting Scottish hiking shop will stock them - they are relatively cheap. I know for sure that ‘The Green Welly Stop’ in Tyndrum will have them!).

I hope you have a great trip - if it’s half as good as mine, it will be a blast! I look forward to a trip report later in the year!

Ian

Thanks Ian,
We will definitely look at new hiking boots, for our current ones are more like the trail shoe you described. We will probably get some upgraded gear at REI to be prepared. Iceland had some tricky terrain too, but I’m guessing more rugged on this one. Of course, we will do some “breaking-in” time prior to the trip. Need to build up longer times on our feet on the trail after all!! We are definitely set on the possible midges. They had them in Iceland too, and they are so annoying. We are planning to spend 4/5 extra days after the adventure on Highland Way. Any “must-sees” from the end of the trail at Fort William you would suggest? Maybe Isle of Skye or other?
You should write a travel blog. You are very good! Thanks for all the time. I’ll definitely post an update once we return from Scotland.
Steph

My good friends did it a couple of years ago, and were very happy with the Mac's tour.

https://www.macsadventure.com/walking-holiday/uk-walking-holiday/scotland/

They had great accommodation throughout with them.
They went in May, and had no midges, but it rained nearly every day.

Hi Steph -

First off, you are very welcome! Now, as regards time at the end of the WHW, I suppose it depends if you wanted to do anymore walking or just take it easy. I would, if you get a decent day and feel up to it, climb Ben Nevis. At Fort William it’s literally right on your door step. And it puts the proverbial cherry on the cake, so to speak, though it’s not considered a ‘compulsory’ part of the WHW. A more detailed exploration of Glencoe might be in order too as the WHW doesn’t cover it fully.

When we finished the Great Glen Way in Fort William we celebrated with a couple of meals at The Lime Tree (Michelin starred, or was) and The Crannog, the red and White seafood restaurant that juts out into Loch Linnhe. Of the two I preferred the Crannog, but it probably helped that we were in the company of my, now sadly late, friend Rene, who being French, expertly knew his way round a wine list!

I would certainly take the railway journey from Fort William to Mallaig, although there’s not much to detain you in Mallaig if I’m honest. If you can find a way to break the journey to visit the Glenfinnan Monument, so much the better. However be prepared to swat off hordes of Harry Potter fans who think they are headed to Hogwarts!

If you think it’s unlikely you’ll be back, at least for a while, then Skye is worth a couple of nights minimum visit, especially if the weather is clear. It’s all marvellous to look at, but even better walking/climbing, especially in the Black Cuillin, which is unlike anything else in Britain. It’s not for the casual hiker or faint hearted as it’s very steep and rugged and there are plenty of ‘hands out of pockets’ bits and moments that will test your resolve - the sloping exposed rock you have to cross on the way to the tiny summit of Sgurr Nan Gillean for instance. Local guides are available on the island. The usual stuff you see, Fairy Pools, The Old Man of Storr, the Quirang etc, are much easier walks verging on strolls in some cases in my view. You will need your own transport for best results on Skye though - although an island, it’s big! Eileen Donan Castle is close at hand if leaving via the Skye bridge. Stunning outside, less so inside.

If you do have your own transport and don’t want to ‘dice with death’ on Skye (😂😂) and the weather is good, then the entire west coast of Scotland is superb. And you could take in the slightly hair raising Bealach Na Ba pass across the Applecross peninsula, drive up via Ullapool towards the ‘flow country’ climb the miniature mountain of Stac Pollaidh, marvel at the implausible Suilven which looms over Lochinver, drive the single track road from Kinlochewe to Torridon etc., etc. Loch Ness and Inverness I know people feel they must see (Culloden, Outlander etc.,) but they are not on my list of favourites. Nothing wrong with them but not compulsory.

If I think of anything else, I’ll let you know. By default, more missing than there is here!

Ian

P.S. Plenty of good WHW videos on You Tube if you want to whet your appetite, and in the same place clips of Muriel Gray’s now old, but always irreverent and fun ‘Munro Show’ give you an insight into climbing Scotland’s more famous mountains.

P.P.S. A travel blog by me? Too kind! I did write a memoir (strictly - very - limited circulation) of our 2019 walk up the Pennine Way, but after that I don’t know whether I have the stamina for blogging! Walking, that would be the easy bit…..!

Hi (again) -

American couple’s talk on doing the Coast to Coast walk has some relevant and interesting thoughts on gear: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p3_qS0zG4mU

It’s relevant as the terrain involved is similar. Fun talk too!

Ian

Hope that you are not on information overload. Be prepared but as the shoe ad said, "Just Do It". That said, the starting point should have been the West Highland Way "offical website": https://www.westhighlandway.org/

The website's "The Route" drop-down has a good descrlition of typical distances and route narrative. The types of accommodations can be overwhelming in that the possibilities are limited and the booking agency earns their fee in finding you on-route lodging. The variety of lodging from hotels to rooms in private houses is part of the adventure. Enjoy.