Help with travel between Orkney Island and Lewis and Inverness

"Best way" questions are always highly subjective.

On our Scotland trip, after exploring the Scottish Highlands, we dropped our car in Inverness, and used that as our jumping off point for the Outer Hebrides and Orkney. We did essentially what (I think) you are considering: first we flew from Inverness to Stornoway (on Lewis), rented a car there, spent a couple days around Lewis, then flew Stornoway-Inverness-Kirkwall (there were no direct flights when we went, and I think that has not changed -- still gotta go via Inverness). Rented a car in Kirkwall, spent a few days there, then flew back from Kirkwall to London, via Edinburgh. All the flights (except to London) were short (about 45 minutes each) and not expensive; layover in Inverness wasn't too bad.

Our trip was too short to allow for a lot of ferry/drive time to get between our primary places of interest, I felt the flights allowed us to get way out to where we wanted to be, fairly efficiently and cheaply.

We did not spend any time in Inverness, for us it was just a hub for transportation options, so can't comment on it as a good place to spend a few days..

You'll love the islands. Lewis was great and of course so was Orkney.

Rather than Inverness, perhaps the family m ight prefer to stop in Nairn, about 16 miles away. It has a lovely beach which the children
may enjoy running off steam on.

As you have worked out transport between Orkney and Lewis isn't great - locals aren't interested in doing the journey and few touriststs either (unless they are hiring a car and making the drive part of the holiday.) If flying you will need to return to Inverness as David suggests.

Last June, we flew into Edinburgh and jumped immediately on LoganAir to Stornoway. After three days on Harris/Lewis, we flew to Shetland (via Inverness/Kirkwall) for three days, then back to Glasgow. The connections in Inverness/Kirkwall were "don't get off the plane" fast. Later in the trip, we flew Edinburgh/Kirkwall (return) Our traveling companions caused the 'odd' choices). Although there is a slight fare increase for the longer distance, Edinburgh has multiple flights per day, while Inverness will only have one. Our original plan included the drive out to John o'groats, but when you compare the time and possibility of weather issues, it was a silly option. LoganAir uses demand pricing, so sooner is better. Aberdeen is an even better base station flight-wise. I would think Edinburgh or Aberdeen would be far better for your family than Inverness. Exact hopscotching depends on your plans and offered flights.

Thank you all for your responses. David, it sounds like we'll be doing the same trip itinerary you did.

I will definitely look at Nairn and Aberdeen. The kids would love being close to the ocean and we all like being outside of the bigger cities (Inverness).

One last questions, did you book the rental cars for the islands in advance or when you arrived at the airports on the individual islands? We've been trying to get onto various sites to book in advance but not having luck. We've just used Expedia. Is there a direct location for rental cars you'd recommend? All suggestions are very welcomed.

Thank you! I greatly appreciate your help. I feel like I'm on the right track with flights but the confirmation from all of you is good to hear.

TMW5 - I always book rental cars long in advance, anywhere I know I will want a car (I've heard too many stories about drama at the rental counter when you arrive to find yourself in a Seinfeld episode). Especially in places where tourism services are limited. That goes double on small islands and other isolated places where options are constrained even in the best of times. Goes triple in the late-stage (we hope) of the pandemic, after the near-collapse (and price shocks) of the rental car industry. I'd worry less if I was headed for Vegas or Orlando, but on a tiny rock in the North Atlantic? Youbetcha, I'd book months ahead. Small places/islands do run out of cars.

On that trip I booked all three of my UK car rentals though gemut.com (one car picked up in Salisbury and dropped off in Inverness; one each in Stornoway and Kirkwall). Rentals were through a big agency (near Stonehenge IIRC it was Avis?) and two tiny local operators (on the islands).

For any European trip where I need a car, I always start with Gemut and let them do the searching for me (they are not a rental agency, but they work with all the major and most of the minor companies, will find you what you ask for, present you with your options; they almost always come through, even in some pretty off-the-beaten-path locations). I'm a longtime satisfied customer. Check out their website, give them a call or shoot them an email to let them know what you need and they'll get back to you. Super easy.

Definitely book car hire in advance and don't rely on being able to hire on arrival in the islands. There are limited numbers of cars available and you may well find they are all booked. Also book early to make sure you get the model you want.

Do a google search for Car Hire Orkney and Car Hire Shetland and this brings up several big companies as well as smaller local companies just based in the islands. Book direct with the company.

Excellent info from you both. We're looking into it further today. I want to get this all booked as we're getting too close for my comfort to not have reservations already pre-booked. Just trying to figure out how much time we want/need on each island to see the neolithic sites.
Thank you again!

There are more neolithic sites to see on Orkney. On Lewis, the main site is Callanais Stone Circle followed by Dun Carloway Broch. Both are open 24/7 (although Callanais Visitor Centre is only open 10-4.) You could 'get away' with 2 nights there, although an extra day would give chance to see more of the stunning scenwery of Lewis and Harris.

Orkney and the islands are stuffed with neolithic sites, so from that point of view do require more time. The main sites (Skara Brae, Maeshowe, Ring of Brodgar, Stones of Stenness, Barnhouse Settlement) can be ticked off in a day - and many people just do this. However to see the other sites (Broch of Gurness, Brough of Birsay -tidal so check safe crossing times) will require an extra day with possibly a third if you try and visit Rousay which has several very good and very different cairns (Taversoe Tuick, Blackhammer , Knowe of Yarsoe, and Midhowe) as well as Midhowe Broch.

Follow the links from this map page for some idea of just what there is to see on Orkney.

YoU are investing quite a bit of effort in getting to Lewis and Orkney, so don't short change them on time.

Orkney is the better place for Neolithic sites than Eileann nan Siar, and there is not really any direct link between the two. Currently Loganair offers no direct flight, there is no demand, and all flights connect either in Inverness or in Glasgow.

For your family I second the Moray coast but would suggest especially if they have a car the Black Isle which is the peninsular just north of Inverness.

You do need to crack on with getting accommodation booked. There isn't a lot of choice on either Lewis or Orkney.

Excellent information. I have been busy the last few days booking everything from air, train, cars, accommodations. We decided on 2 days on Lewis and 3 days on Orkney. Our family will be staying in Nairn while we're there (they will not have a car).

Thank you all again. Your knowledge was greatly helpful and appreciated!

Oh, and thank you Wasleys for listing all of the points of interest. It has kept my hubby busy for quite a while. Lol.

If you want to keep him really busy, direct him to the Orkneyjar website. It is a wealth of information about everything Orkney...

Excellent. He's looking at it right now. Thank you!

Another fast question. After Orkney and Lewis, we're flying from Lewis to Edinburgh. I'd like to catch a bus or train that same evening from Edinburgh to Dundee. (Quite a bit less expensive to stay there than St. Andrews.) We'll stay there for a couple days then head back to Edinburgh for a while.

Is there a bus station at the airport or do we have to go into Edinburgh? Rome to Rio says yes but Omio says no. It would have to be a bus/train that goes later as our flight from Lewis gets into EDI at 18:25 then by the time we collect our bags we'll need a bit of time before the bus or train would leave.

Thanks. I probably should start another thread but thought I'd quick ask.

Sorry I can't help - I'd start a separate thread as it is a completely different question. You may get a better response!

We made advance reservations on Orkney with Orkney Car Rental. The rates were low and insurance was not even discussed and extra driver was free. We arrived after 4pm and the airport office was closed, so we just took a bus (there was some sort of taxi crisis with none available for hours) into Kirkwall and picked up the car the next morning in town. Would be a problem if you were staying out in the boondocks.

We made advance reservations with Hebrides Car Hire for Stornoway. Again, great service, low prices, and no CDW issue. I usually decline CDW (because my Visa covers it) but they included it in their rates and it was peanuts for only three days.

One thing if you are going to Lewis, or anywhere else in Eileann nan Siar, get a good map with the names in both English and Gaelic as they are signed predominantly in Gaelic. If English is on the signs there for directions it is usually in a much smaller font.

Thank you to all of you! You've helped me greatly. Checking out the car rental places now (and the map in English and Gaelic).

When on Orkney hop on the short ferry ride to Rousay. Take the tour with Patrick ......https://www.rousaytours.co.uk/. We scheduled a private tour with Patrick last June. It was a highlight of our 6 weeks in Scotland. Up close & personal viewing of Neolithic sites without the crowds. In 7 hours on the tour we encountered one other couple. Amazing. We found Skara Brae packed with tour buses...... didn't even get out of the car. No need after being on Orkney w/ Patrick.

Accommodation Recommendation; Stayed at the Graemeshall House just outside Kirkwall. Wonderful stay.