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First time in Scotland!

Hi all!!
My wife and I will be in Scotland from June 4 to June 15 (11 days). At this point, we have our flights booked but everything else is being planned.
We are an active couple who love to bike, hike, walk and do outdoorsy things. But we also love to relax and try different whiskies (we love smoky, peaty scotch). We also love good coffee shops, bakeries, small restaurants. . We like staying in places that are walkable so we can walk to the sights, restaurants, coffee shops, bars, museums etc. While we definitely want to spend time in Edinburgh and explore that city, we generally like small quaint towns over large cities. We also prefer slow traveling so don't want to have a hectic trip where we are staying in each place for only a couple days and then checking out and going to a different city.
We definitely want to spend some time in Edinburgh as well as Islay (Laphroaig and Ardbeg are our favorite!).
So rough plan is we start in Edinburgh without a car (maybe 4 days?), rent a car for the rest of the trip and end on Islay (maybe 3 days?). Not sure what we do in the middle.

  1. One idea is to just do two bases: 5-6 days in Edinburgh, and 5-6 days on Islay (with some day trips thrown in if we feel like it).
  2. The other idea is to do 3 bases: Edinburgh to start, Islay to end, and then some small quaint town in the middle.
  3. Tobermory looks great but our fear is Edinburgh --> Tobermory --> Islay --> Glasgow/Edinburgh will mean significant travel times.
  4. Oban is an idea but looks too big and crowded.
  5. Pitlochry looks pretty but looks too touristy.
  6. Inveraray might be an option especially because it is a good breaking point in our travels from Edinburgh to Islay.

Would love some suggestions! :)

Posted by
2870 posts

Have you thought about Dunoon, on the Cowla peninsula and just 'doon the water' from Glasgow. It is reached by a regular car ferry from Gourock. It has a pier, long promendade and was a popopular destination for C19th holiday makers from Glasgow. Read more about it here.

https://www.wildaboutargyll.co.uk/visit/dunoon-cowal/

https://www.calmac.co.uk/en-gb/explore/itineraries/dunoon/#/

https://www.undiscoveredscotland.co.uk/dunoon/dunoon/index.html

The wonderful Benmore Gardens are just a short drive.

Inverary with its casrtle and jail is just over an hour's drive. Loch Lomond is also doable too

Posted by
11195 posts

Q3- The nature of the geography and the distances mean that significant travel times on any Scottish itinerary which starts in Edinburgh and then concentrates on the west coast are an inevitability.
Q5- Pitlochry is touristy because for the most part it was built as a tourist town, with the coming of the railway, then the primary means of transport to the area (even for the Lairds). But as in many other such places it is incredibly easy to escape fellow tourists.
The more historical part of Pitlochry is a village less than 2 miles up the hill called Moulin. The village has a well respected hotel. When I go up there I know I am leaving all the tourists behind as soon as I start up the hill. Pitlochry Heritage Centre is actually in the former Moulin Church (Kirk).

But a nearby town with a lot more Scottish History, but way fewer tourists is Dunkeld (and it's sister village of Birnam).

From Pitlochry you could also look at heading out west towards Rannoch- lovely but little known (to overseas tourists) countryside.

Q6- Getting from Edinburgh to Islay by road is basically going round two sides of a triangle. In my mind the far better way to get there by road is to take the base of the triangle- the 2 or 3 ferry route- either Western Ferries Gourock to Dunoon then CalMac Portavadie to Tarbert (Loch Fyne); or Wemyss Bay to Rothesay, then Rhubodach to Colintraive, then Portavadie to Tarbert.
It is no faster, but is just in every way better in my opinion.

The time saving way to get there is to fly from Glasgow to Islay (morning and afternoon flights). On a good day the little flights are a good sightseeing opportunity, as a side benefit. Until you've seen the islands by air I don't think you truly grasp the geography of the west coast.

Tarbert (Loch Fyne) is a possible small town to use as a base to explore Kintyre. Campbeltown (at the bottom of Kintyre) is a whisky region of it's own, and has several (3 or 4) distilleries you can visit. The Isle of Gigha (half way down Kintyre) is an easy day trip, and a good example of a community buy out island (from it's former Lairds) with several good community businesses. Another little town I like a lot on the way across Cowal to Portavadie is Tighnabruaich- a one or two nighter.

Please bear in mind that drink driving laws in Scotland are strict, driving and drinking any measure of whisky are mutually exclusive actions. There are several island companies on Islay who will do private distillery tours for you. I also think you will find the whisky contrast between Islay and Jura (it's neighbouring island, quick ferry hop over) rather interesting.
Islay has two island car rental companies, and a pretty comprehensive bus service, mainly (it seems) by the locals. Islay is a big island with a lot of scenery and places to explore outwith the distilleries. Including travel days then you could readily make Islay cover the whole 5 or 6 days at your disposal.

The time saving way from Islay to Oban for Tobermory is the twice weekly direct ferry from Port Askaig to Oban. I have to say that the thought of Oban being too big is a bit thought provoking. The tourist part (as opposed to where the locals live) is little more than two long streets. Yes it's busy because it is a major port. But again it takes little effort to escape fellow tourists- even in the town itself (go up to McCaig's Tower or Dunollie or Dunstaffnage , or going across to the islands of Kerrera or Lismore on the wee ferries.
Lismore in particular has the nice island cafe in the Gaelic Heritage Centre.

Posted by
11195 posts

Not sure what happened to your response, which appeared and then vanished. The site is having intermittent technical problems this weekend (of a certain Seattle/Boston sporting fixture which seems to have created a jinx), perhaps it accidentally fell victim to that.

Anyway yes flying into GLA on 4 June feels a good idea. On 5 June the flight to Islay is at 0755, arrive 0835.

6 June is a Saturday, so there is but one flight out of Islay at 0915, 7 June (Sunday) is a single flight at 1625, then Monday is flights at 0905 and 1825.
Saturday is a day of a ferry from Islay to Oban at 1215, arrive 1620; also a 1530 to Kennacraig arrive 1725, for a bus to Glasgow arrive 2116, via Inveraray at 1919. Next day there is a 1021 bus out of Inveraray to Oban arrive 1138.
Not sure, being a Sunday, if either of the two Oban car rental companies, or either of the two Mull based companies are open for a car on Mull; then afterwards train back Oban to Glasgow.

Or step the whole trip up to start a day earlier, if flights (and hotels?) are not yet booked. That way you avoid the weekend flight shortfall.