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Driving from Inverness area to Edinburgh - which route?

My itinerary for next May (2023) is fairly well set - I arrive on May 4th, and will spend the first 3 nights in Glasgow, then rent a car and head to Arran for 3 nights, then Isle of Mull (Tobermory) for 4 nights, then Skye (Portree) for 4 nights and then Harris and Lewis for 4 nights. I leave Stornoway on Sunday and head to Inverness to see Culloden and the Clava Cairns. I will have 3 nights before I have to be in Glasgow for my flight.

Also, I am allotting part of this time for Edinburgh, so I was thinking one night on the road, then the next 2 nights in Edinburgh. (I will spend the last night in Glasgow, but will have most of the last day in Edinburgh). But I'm trying to figure out where to go from Inverness to Edinburgh. One idea would be to head south through Cairngorms National Park, which would probably be the most direct route.

But I'm toying with the idea of heading north from Clava Cairns to Nairn and driving along the coastal road, stopping in places like Cullen, Portsoy, Banff, and Cruden Bay then continuing down through Aberdeen to Edinburgh. Is this feasible? I like the sea and I like driving through small towns and fishing villages. Is that enough time? Should I allot 2 nights to this part and only spend one night in Edinburgh? I could also take away one night from Stornoway and keep the 2 nights in Edinburgh.

Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thank you!

Posted by
1476 posts

Hi, Mardee,

Just from personal experience, I would definitely say to take the coast road, and skip the extra time in Edinburgh. Especially if you like the sea. Those coastal villages along the Moray Firth are delightful. You should include Lossiemouth, Portnockie, and especially Pennan, where much of Local Hero was filmed. After you've visited Cruden Bay, be sure to take the A975 south to Newburgh. Hundreds of seals gather at the Ythan Estuary, along the beach.

While you're in Cullen, be sure to try some of the award winning Cullen Skink at Lily's. Caution - it's very filling! There is another restaurant, Rockpool, which also serves excellent Cullen Skink if Lily's is too crowded. There is also a highly recommended ice cream shop just down from the Rockpool.

Much as I like Aberdeen, it is a ghost of its former self. After you leave Newburgh, you can take the A90 bypass around the city, which drops you off near Stonehaven. That will give you an opportunity to visit Dunnottar Castle and the Fowlsheugh Nature Reserve. Lunan Bay, just south of Montrose, is definitely worth a visit, as is the Arbroath cliff walk.

After Arbroath, you can follow the A92 through Dundee and across the Tay Bridge. From there, it's a straight shot down the A92 to the M90, and down to Edinburgh.

Your itinerary sounds ideal. That is exactly the route I would plan. Are you taking the Tobermory to Kilchoan ferry between Mull and Skye? The drive along the Ardnamurchan Peninsula is spectacular!

Have a wonderful holiday! How could you not? It's Scotland, after all!

Best wishes,

Mike (Auchterless)

Posted by
8161 posts

Mike, thank you so much! That is exactly the information I needed - I really appreciate all of it! And yes, I will be taking the Tobermory to Kilchoan ferry, and was wondering what the drive would be like. It sounds wonderful! I am very excited about this trip - I just wish I didn't have to wait till next year to go. :) Thank you again for your detailed information - I look forward to trying Cullen Stink!

Posted by
7207 posts

When we made the drive years ago from Edinburgh we went north, bypassed Aberdeen then over to Elgin on the A96 and down to Nairn and Inverness. For our upcoming trip we may go the same route or cut across the country after seeing Dunotter Castle, possibly stopping in Grantown-on-Spey for a bit before spending a couple nights in Nairn. The more northern route has a wider road and is a little quicker, but going directly across the country through the national park might be prettier. Not a decision we need to make at this time.

Posted by
1476 posts

Hi again, Mardee,

It's "Cullen Skink," not "Cullen Stink"! I think that the residents of Cullen would forgive you, however! :) Lily's does make the best. She's located on the main street, just up from the town square.

I mentioned the Fowlsheugh Nature Reserve earlier. It's south of Dunnottar - follow the signs for Crawton. Fowlsheugh has one of the largest populations of seabirds on the East Coast. As you are going to be there in May, you may see puffins. They are all the way out at the end of the trail, past the hide. They usually nest at the cave entrance, about half way down the cliff.

If you have time while you're in Cruden Bay, it's a short walk out to what remains of Slains Castle. Bram Stoker stayed there in the late 1890s, and it's supposedly his inspiration for the castle of Count Dracula in his 1897 novel.

Do you have room for me in your suitcase?

Mike (Auchterless)

Posted by
8161 posts

jaimeelsabio, that's the beauty of this. I like it because I don't have to prepare too much in advance, unlike the accommodations for Skye and so on. Thank you! When is your upcoming trip?

Mike, oops, I totally misread that - arrghh! And I am definitely going to Slains Castle - in fact, that's what put the idea for this trip in my head. I read a book called "The Winter Sea" by Susanna Kearsley, a Canadian author, which takes place (partly) at Slains Castle back in the early 1700's. It's a historical novel (fiction based on fact) but extensively researched. That's when I started thinking about the idea of visiting Cruden Bay and Slains Castle. And I'm not sure about the suitcase, but maybe the boot? :)