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Comments requested on May 2026 itinerary to Isle of Skye: Portree and Armadale

Hello, Scotland forum folks. My wife and I (in our 70’s but fit) and grown children (in 30’s and fit) plan to visit Scotland for the first time in May, 2026. Our niece and her partner, in their 40’s and fit, will join us in Glasgow from London where they reside. First time in Scotland for all of us !

We will begin in Edinburgh for its own sake and because our flight lands there nonstop from Chicago, and also visit Glasgow, but in this forum I won’t ask advice about those major cities (can’t go wrong with their art museums) and instead ask for feedback about our plans for the Isle of Skye.

At present, my plan is for the niece and some others to hire a six-passenger car in Glasgow and then drive in one day to Mallaig in time for the 16:00 ferry to Armadale. My wife and I will take the Scotrail West Highland line from Glasgow and meet the car travelers in Mallaig. This concept is based on the niece being a UK driver, on my wife and I preferring train travel, on the West Highland line’s reputation for scenery, and on not being able to find a six-passenger vehicle for hire on the Isle of Skye.

Upon landing in Armadale at 16:30 we will drive to Portree and stay three nights in a rented house within walking distance of the center. (Will book dinners). We have not filled in the wish-list for this portion but it will include the standard highlights with special attention to potters, wildlife and coastal scenery. After that we return to the Sleat Peninsula and stay three nights in two different cottages at Armadale Castle. We will want to take at least one boat outing from Elgol on Bella Jane’s AquaExplore zodiac, one featuring puffins but perhaps another trip also. Remaining activities for Sleat Peninsula not yet determined.

Then the niece and partner will drive back to Glasgow to return the rental car, then return to London while the two parents and two adult kids visit the Isle of Arran for a few days with no car (or we might visit the Isle of Arran first, depending on logistics).

I am hoping that the experienced Scotland posters will share thoughts on:
1). Best itinerary for the car party driving from Glasgow to Mallaig in one day for the 16:00 ferry. The
group will have varied interests and not want to depart at dawn, but perhaps Stirling or Falkirk ?
2). From Portree, would it be worthwhile to spend a day across the bridge on the mainland since we
will have six nights on the Isle of Skye and have a car ? Or just enjoy Skye, unhurriedly ?
3). Our lodgings in Armadale are self-catering, so we are starting in Portree in part to provision there
but what should we expect in Portree for grocery shopping - two of the group are vegetarian, two
love seafood. Are there restaurants serving dinner near Armadale ?
4). What should we prioritize during the Armadale stay ? Boat trip to Canna on AquaExplore from
Elgol, scenic drive on Sleat Peninsula, walks in the Armadale Garden and their trails are on the list.
Are Neolithic sites reachable from there ? We have the Bradt guide but are starting in this Forum.
5). Our visit is in May but we have not included any of the renowned Scottish gardens in our planning
so far. Armadale has gardens and so will the cottages in Portree but are we missing an
opportunity to visit prime gardens that might be incorporated into our overall plan ?

Thank you.

Posted by
10845 posts

The first thing to say is that the 1600 ferry is on the winter timetable. In May there will (or should) be two ships shuttling the route all day on the Summer timetable at roughly hourly intervals. The actual timetable differs by the day of the week (due to sailings to the Small Isles and the Outer Hebrides from Mallaig), but there should be a later ferry than 1600 on any given day. The other thing to bear in mind is that Armadale is a tidal port so on days of extremely low tides certain sailings are retimed or cancelled- they will be announced well ahead of time but are not currently known.
The Summer timetable should be out in January or February.

So in essence 1600 is a guide mark at the moment and for the next few months, not a fixed time.

Those going by train will arrive at Mallaig at 1340.

Posted by
1445 posts

1) Take a look at Google Maps for the drive from Glasgow to Maillig. Will they be picking up the car in town or at the airport? Once they cross the River Clyde the A82 will take them up to Ft. William where they will then head over to Maillig. While Google Maps says it's about 4 hours drive time with no stops, they will certainly want to make a few stops along the way. This route takes them past Loch Lomond.

If they want to see Stirling Castle, add about an extra 45 minutes drive time plus time spent visiting the castle.

If they want both Loch Lomond and a castle they could detour to Invarary. All 3 routes will provide wonderful scenery and take them across the Rannoch Moor and Glencoe.

By the way, Stirling Castle is an easy trip from either Glasgow or Edinburgh by car, public transportation or day tour.

As the above poster said, the summer schedule will offer more ferry crossings. If your train arrives in Maillig before the driving party, you could walk around town and have lunch. But do reserve the ferry in advance for both the car and passengers.

2) While you are spending a fair amount of time on Skye, there is enough to keep you busy on Skye. How much car time can everyone tolerate? From Portree just to the other side of the Sky Bridge is an hour each way over roads you will have already covered.

3) Both Portree and Bradford have Co-op Stores where you will find everything plus other shops around the island. Have a bit of cash on you when your out and about. You may come across Honesty Boxes selling Tablet or other treats, jams, eggs or produce. We've not eaten in Armadale, but Google is currently showing several restaurants in the Armadale area.

Enjoy your planning.

Posted by
10845 posts

As regards Gardens, on Skye there is also Dunvegan Castle Gardens.

Just across the Skye Bridge you have the Attadale Gardens- https://www.attadale.com/gardens

Another potential one is a day trip to the Isle of Raasay (just off Skye) and while on the island visit the Raasay House Walled Garden- http://raasay.com/the-walled-garden-raasay/

On the way back to Glasgow you could route (by car) via Oban and visit the Ardmaddy Castle Gardens- https://www.ardmaddy.com/gardens and the Arduaine Garden- https://www.nts.org.uk/visit/places/arduaine-garden

(a lot of A's here)

If you come off Skye via the Bridge you could add an extra day and visit the Inverewe Gardens and the Dundonnell House Garden (if your visit coincides with one of their rare openings)

Another possible diversion route on the way back to Glasgow would be the Benmore Botanic Garden on Cowal

Posted by
897 posts

Sounds like a lovely trip. I actually got married at Armadale Castle- so it is nice to see it mentioned!- but I haven't been for a long time so don't have much advice to give on Skye. However, if you are looking for nice gardens and you say you are planning to visit Arran, I highly recommend the gardens at Brodick Castle, which we enjoyed very much.

Posted by
29798 posts

Skye tends to get a lot of rain, so I recommend keeping your itinerary there as flexible as possible.

Posted by
1011 posts

Since you emphasize everyone being fit, I assume you enjoy hiking. On our three night trip to Skye, we arrived via Mallaig and had time to stop at Fairy Pools on the way to Portree. We were actually disappointed by the crowds, the parking situation, and the crowds. Did I say crowds? On the way to Mallaig from Fort William, we had intended to split up and two drive and two take the steam train, but seeing the steam train in Ft. William Station satisfied our Harry Potter fan, so we all drove and watched the train cross the Viaduct at Glenfinnan.

The next day we headed up the Trotternish (east side) and hiked to the Old Man of Storr, made quick stops at Lealt Falls and Kilt Rock, then hiked around the base of the Quiraing. Turned out to be a VERY stormy day (80mph+ winds) and we had trouble walking without going airborne.

The next day took us up the west side of the Trotternish, the short hike to RHA Falls, a nice hike to Fairy Glen, and visited the Museum of Island Life. The weather was still stormy, so that was it for the day.

On our way to Inverness, we included Eilean Donan Castle, although it was underwhelming, as many here will tell you.

If I were to do it again, your five day visit would be better, leaving time for the remainder of Skye. We had explored the Armadale area back in the late 90s, so it wasn't a complete skip. Back then we enjoyed the Clan Donald Center gardens, and staying in Armadale, found a charming little place that I believe has morphed into Rubha Phoil. At the time it was an extensive herb garden.

Posted by
10845 posts

The question of going to Canna is an interesting one. The island is quite interesting, and an SSI (Site of Special Scientific Interest) with a large seabird population including Puffins. Because of it's tiny population (so very limited places to stay) it is not especially easy to reach, so that would be a very good opportunity, and every visit supports the population. It's a catch 22- a more frequent ferry can't be justified due to the small population. If many more people could get there they could cause damage to the fragile eco-systems. So it's a bit of a holy grail of a place to visit. Personally I really like the island because of what it is and it's inability to support anything vaguely like mass tourism.

Apart from the bird life and neolithic remains there is also Canna House and it's gardens to see. But it is not really the best place to see puffins from the sea and I doubt that Aqua Explore will dock for long enough for you to walk across the island to see the Puffin colonies by land- you need 3 to 4 hours.

For the megalithic stuff on the Isle of Skye see here- https://www.megalithic.co.uk/search.php?country=3&county=29

Posted by
1549 posts

Canna is wonderful and the Aqua Explore trip which I've done at least 10 times is great for a taster. You get to see the puffin colonies from the boat which gets very close to the cliffs. There were puffins all around us and we could also see them on the cliffs as well as in the air and on the water. Time ashore was about an hour from memory, enough time to see the church, the community shop, and have a bit in the cafe. Rum is also visited but there's no landing there, although you will see the red deer on the beach and an interesting ship wreck.

There are also boat trips from Portree including Seaflower Skye who offer wildlife spotting while having a seafood lunch. They cruise out towards the islands of Rona and Raasay. It's a trip I've long wanted to do but not managed yet despite living in Skye!

Gardens in Skye. Dunvegan Castle gardens are the most well known and extensive and worth a visit.

Potteries. Edinbane is probably best known and I have quite a few of their pieces. There's also Skio Pottery on the Waternish Peninsula. Also Uig Pottery, although their work is not so much to my personal taste. I also love Lenz Ceramics, they are down in Sleat.

As for sightseeing between Glasgow and Skye. That journey takes me pretty much all day, so if you want to make the afternoon ferry I'm not sure you'll have that much time to divert to Stirling or Falkirk. A stop beside Loch Lomond e.g. at Luss maybe? Or lunch at the Kingshouse Hotel at the top of Glencoe on Rannoch Moor?

Jacqui (Skyegirl)

Posted by
13 posts

Many thanks to all the kind folk who replied with their expert advice. It will help us loads !

Thank you, isn31c, for your advice on release of the Cal Mac summer schedule. And thank you for identifying several promising gardens and the fascinating site The Megalithic Portal.

Laurie Ann, we will look into booking a wildlife tour with Stewart, that would be so much fun

Thanks, jeanm. On reflection I think we’ll devote our time to Skye to the Isle of Skye.

CatVH, yes we will definitely visit Brodick while in Arran, thank you.

Thank you, jjgurley, their website is very interesting.

And Skyegirl, we look forward to visiting some of the potters you highlighted. And the evening Prosecco outing on “Seaflower Skye” will be perfect for our stay in Portree, weather permitting.

Best regards,

Posted by
143 posts

From Elgol, the boat trip into Loch Coruisk is wonderful - we did it most recently just 2 weeks ago.Truly a magnificent, even Gothic landscape.A wet and at times rocky path to follow once off the boat but on a decent weather day (critical!) well worth it.

On Pottery - Highland Stoneware are based in Lochinver and Ullapool but their lovely (and pricey!) products are stocked in many quality shops.I like their stuff very much so just a heads up on it.

Am Praban bar, part of the lovely Hotel Eilean Iarmain in Sleat at Isle Ornsay is a short drive from Armadale.We never miss a chance to eat here - lunch or dinner.Fabulous seafood in particular.A very Gaelic bar too which usually plays Scottish/Gaelic traditional music and songs.Creates a great atmosphere.And the location is dreamy too.A small art gallery in the adjacent building is often worth a browse.

https://eileaniarmain.co.uk/bar-am-praban/

There is so much to see on that driving route (and train route) from Glasgow - Loch Lomond, Rannoch Moor, Glencoe, Glenfinnan and the viaduct.As said, you really could spend all day (with a car) enjoying it all.To me Stirling is too much of a detour unless you intend to really extend the whole driving day and go cross country back to Crianlarich and on to Glencoe - that's in order to enjoy the most scenic route.There are of course alternative routes via the A9 if Stirling is a real draw to the family.

Posted by
2099 posts

We followed the following roadtrip itinerary while on Skye. This might help you organize your order of sightseeing:

https://www.ontheluce.com/isle-of-skye-itinerary/

Regarding botanical gardens, I highly recommend the Royal Botanic Gardens in Edinburgh. We spent about 3/4 of a day here, including a delicious lunch on the cafe's veranda. And I second the botanical gardens at Dunvegan Castle.

Posted by
13 posts

Thank you very much, scotlandmac, for your thoughts on Lake Coruisk, pottery and the Am Praban pub, they are very helpful indeed…