Back with a new question-outer Hebrides and skye

Hello Meg
I found this interactive map of Lewis that does a great job highlighting places of interest. Lewis/Harris is such a special place to visit that I think it would be a shame to rush through a couple sites in one day when there is so much much to absorb even at the few places you mentioned. We were 4 days there and it was not enough time for us to fully contemplate what we were seeing.

Isle of Lewis information.
https://www.explore-western-isles.com/interactive-guide/
https://www.explore-western-isles.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/04/Guide-2025-_26-pg-5-red.pdf

We found that three nights on Skye was enough to see most of what we wanted. We spent three nights in Stornoway and also managed the Calanais Stones, Blackhouse(s), Butt of Lewis, and driving the Golden Road. We usually opt for LoganAir over long ferries, and you'll find that sticking the Outer Hebrides at one end of the trip (and flying from Edinburgh or Galway) will give you a lot more time for a modest added cost. We flew to Stornoway on the same day as our longhaul from Seattle. There are Inverness/Stornoway flights, but I hate having two rental cars at once! You will have to book LoganAir under different confirmation numbers, so you'll have risks if your main flights are messed up.

You'll find that Skye lodging books up really far in advance so you need to make some tough decisions :-)

As you mentioned, three nights is really only two days. Flying can add half-days on travel days.

I have been to both Skye and Lewis and Harris.

If you want my opinion, one night in Stornoway is a waste of time. You won't even scratch the surface. These are not highways around the island and some are one lane roads which means you aren't going fast.

My suggestion is spend the time on Skye and plan another trip to include Lewis and Harris as well as the Inner Hebrides.

I agree with Frank. One night in Lewis is a waste of time. Having expended the time effort (and money) to get there it deserves at least 2 nights - and even more if possible!

One night in Lewis is simply not worth it. And it's not possible to do a day tour from Skye as the ferry times don't work.

Years ago, before Covid, Calmac used to do motor coach day tours from Skye to Harris and also to Uist, but they are no more.
Just as they did Fort William to Skye motor coach tours via Mallaig, finally killed off for ever by Covid.
It may be possible again (self drive) from 2027 when Harris and Uist both get dedicated ferries. We will see.
In theory it works this year, 2026, on Monday and Saturday.
Monday - the 0515 ferry from Uig and the 1620 back.
On Saturday the 0950 from Uig and the 2120 back.

At least those days would give you a basic, if very rushed visit to Lewis and Harris.
Far from ideal, but an introduction.

You all give such great advice! My husband really doesn’t want to leave Lewis and Harris on the table so we would do the two nights-which allow for a full day there. Great points about the roads and pace of travel too. Makes me consider dropping it entirely but we shall see.

When people say things are busy on Skye in July what do they mean? Like does it detract greatly from overall experience there? We normally are shoulder season travelers but this time July was it! We could possibly stay in another village on Skye for 1 night and then 3 in Portree or do 4 nights in Portree. Just curious if Skye will be frustrating with people.

For instance, if you get to a car park at a hiking place late and there’s no spots is there no way to hike it?

Hi Meg, I agree that one night is not enough on Lewis and Harris. But I spent two nights on Lewis back in 2023 and felt like I saw most of what I wanted. It did make me want to come back and I definitely will sometime because I love the island. But two nights gives you a good look at it.

If you're getting there in the evening, depending on where you are going, you might want to take a walk up to Lews Castle. I walked there from my B&B and it was a lovely walk through a huge forest, but very open and green. The castle itself has a wonderful museum. At the time I was there, they even had some of the Lewis Chessmen pieces, but I'm not sure if they're still exhibiting them. But even so, it's a wonderful place to visit and it would give you something to do that first evening. And given that it's July, you'll have plenty of light till 9:30-ish.

One advantage you have is that many of the main attractions on Lewis are fairly close to each other. So you can see a lot of them in a relatively short amount of time. While Frank is correct in that these are not highways, I did find the roads on Lewis to be fairly well maintained and easy to drive on compared to some of the other Highland roads.

As mentioned, I only had one full day on Lewis and pretty much drove around in a circle, seeing all the sites that were in the vicinity. I started with the Callanish stones, which were really interesting, then headed to Dun Carloway Broch (well worth a stop), and the Gearrannan Blackhouse Village (interesting but only reproductions).

The Shawbost Norse Mill and Kiln were really interesting, as well. To get there, you must walk up some steps made of flat stones, then walk about a half mile to the 2 buildings. I also really liked the Arnol Blackhouse and definitely is worth seeing. I drove to Port Ness and wanted to head out to the lighthouse, but due to construction, the road was closed so I didn’t make it all the way.

We visited Skye in May, which is supposedly the shoulder season. Parking at Fairy Pools and Old Man of Storr were completely full and we ended up on the road some ways away. Quiraing (sp?) was not completely full. Portree restaurants were fully booked or had long, slow moving lines. We ended up at a quite good Indian restaurant two out of three nights. The third night, we stood in line for an hour.

I'd suggest (again) three nights in each place.

Oh wow so mentally preparing to be around all the people for July!

Thank you, Mardee! Great tips-I’ll prob just follow your route!

If following Mardee’s excellent route, route, rather than doing Gearrannan Blackhouse Village, visit Arnol Blackhouse instead. It is the real thing! Gearrannan Blackhouse Village has been restored as a tourist village and many of the buildings are let out as self catering cottages. It is interesting to walk around to get a feel as to what a small settlement would have been like but does feel ‘sanitised’...

Arnol Blackhouse is in the care of Historic Environment Scotland and has been preserved as it it was when the family left there in 1966. It still has the central open fire with smoke spiralling up through the heather thatch roof - there wasn’t a chimney. The animals lived in the byre which was part of the building (and the heat from their bodies acted a bit like central heating). Do take time to talk to the staff who are very knowledgeable and have plenty of tales about what life was like then. I remember we visited on a very cold wet and windy day in April. The wind was whistling round the outside of the blackhouse but inside was really warm and cosy. The only problem the smell of the peat fire became embedded in our clothes and followed us round for the rest of the holiday!

Next to it is the ‘white house’ which dates from 1920s and began to replace the black houses. Compared to the black house, it felt cold, damp and miserable.

You don't need to follow the crowds to see the best of Skye. As I said before use WalkHighlands to find other sites outside the main honey pots. They are all equally beautiful but the honey pots suffer from over exposure on platforms like Instagram. Roads will be busy and you will need restaurant reservations, but solitude can be found far from the madding crowds.

If following Mardee’s excellent route, route, rather than doing Gearrannan Blackhouse Village, visit Arnol Blackhouse instead.

I would recommend visiting both if you have time. They're all in that same area and it was kind of fun to see the Gearrannan Blackhouse Village. I think I did mention above that it was a reproduction but I still enjoyed seeing it. I wouldn't allot it a whole lot of time and if you need to skip something, that would definitely be the one to skip. And yes, definitely visit Arnol Blackhouse because that is the authentic version.

Also, one thing to be aware of is that Historic Scotland is closing the visitor's center at the Callanish Stones site for renovation work. However you will still be able to see the stones as they are right off the road. The only thing you'll miss is going in the gift shop lol! But you just drive in and park. The stones will be off to your right so there's no need to stop at the visitor center anyway although I did to pay an admission fee. They did say it's supposed to open in 2026 so hopefully it will be open by the time you're there.

The Callanish Stones are now known as Callanais (de- anglicising the name).

The visitor centre is not being refurbished- it is being totally rebuilt and significantly extended. It is due to be finished by the Spring (I would expect no later than when the first cruise ship of the year docks in Stornoway). It will be totally different to when Mardee was there, not least the now compulsory £15 ish per person (exact price yet to be confirmed) admission fee.
There are widespread rumours that a big fence is to be built round the site to enforce the admission fee (after hours admission will be free). It would also not surprise me if parking or even stopping restrictions (yellow lines or even a red zone) were imposed on the road to force people to pay and to use the car park- to prevent road traffic hazards of people trying to avoid the fee.
Much is still yet to be confirmed.

Thank you all again for the amazing info!

Hi Meg
DH and I obviously travel & visit at a pace different from most people. LOL Mardee has given you great suggestions to get the most out of a brief stop. Go for it!