Question about Oban to Craignure ferry

First of all, in May it stays light pretty late, like 9 PM. Then, I checked the bus schedule Craignure to Tobermory and I see that it takes about an hour, with stops.

Considering that your morning ferry could arrive later than scheduled (I mean, you just never know) and that you want to take your time on the drive, I would go with the regular ferry at 3:55. The scenery between Claonaig and Oban is great, the roads are small and steep and winding in many places, and you'll be passing through points of interest like Kilmartin Glen.

Daylight isn't the problem.

I'd have a problem passing through pretty as a picture Tarbert (the first village) without stopping for breakfast, and you want to stop briefly in Ardrishaig where the Crinan canal ends. If you're lucky the Vic 32 (steam 'puffer' boat may even be around). There also is/was a nice cafe there just by the locks. The VIC32 is booked to have spent the Tuesday night alongside at Tarbert and on the Wednesday go to Lochranza so you may also have passed her on the ferry.
And Lochgilphead with it's loch views is worth a quick stop.
There are going to be quite a few places you will want to stop.
There are several slightly off the road diversions (like to Easdale and Luing) I'd be tempted to take as well, but would be anxious about losing even the 3.25 boat.
Given how long daylight is I could even make a case for the following Loch Frisa sailing at 1705 (check in 1635), to maximise my day as you'll also have stopped off in Kilmartin Glen. That will still have you in Tobermory by 7pm.
If I arrived early in Oban I'd go down to either Gallanach (where the Kerrera ferry leaves from) or to the beach at Ganavan Sands, just at the north end of Oban.

Thank you both!! Those places sound fascinating - thank you for the suggestions!

It sounds like I should definitely take the later ferry and I will think about the 1705 ferry as well. That sounds like a good possibility. I really appreciate all this good advice - it makes it easier now to plot out my route and figure out places to stop at as well. The places to stop that you've listed, isn31c, look wonderful. I've looked through guidebooks but those usually only address the main cities and towns; not the places to see as you're driving there. So this is invaluable!

And I didn't even think to check the sunset times for May - very good to know! Thank you again!

Mardee,

I was just thinking. It sounds like you are crossing to Arran on May 6th. That is expected to be the first day of the delayed 2 ship Summer timetable to Arran.

Just for information (in case you haven't seen it) this is the service notice from CalMac.
https://www.calmac.co.uk/service-status?route=05

If this slips any further I am and there are ongoing issues affecting your sailing CalMac will be in touch, so this is just precautionary information. My mind works in weird ways, I thought of this after the German rail strikes post earlier.

Likewise on the Craignure route vessel deployments have changed, although the timetables are the same, the MV Coruisk is now standing in for the Loch Frisa.
This is the updated timetable. https://www.calmac.co.uk/summer-timetables/oban-craignure
It isn't a problem as the Coruisk is actually a slightly bigger boat than the Loch Frisa (and built for Scotland, rather than Norway as the Loch Frisa was).

Thank you so much, Stuart! I just checked and I am booked to take the Ardrossan ferry on Sunday, May 7 at 12:30 PM.

But I don’t understand. What does the delayed 2 ship timetable mean? It doesn’t look like it’s affected my schedule; or has it? At least I’m still leaving at the same time as what’s on the CalMac timetable but now I’m not sure. Thank you again!

Mardee,

It looks like you were booked on the Caledonian Isles anyway. But there should have been a 2nd ship (The Isle of Arran) operating additional sailings in between the Caledonian Isles sailings. She is on refit after an awful winter of every other 'big ship' refit being delayed. So her scheduled traffic is added to the Caley Isles sailings. Thus there may well be a lack of space for unbooked traffic.
They haven't announced it yet but the Catriona (or another of the smaller boats) may be deployed with extra sailings on the Lochranza route to relieve pressure on the Ardrossan route.
They do a very good Steak Pie in the on board restaurant, and their Macaroni Cheese is legendary, but plenty of other choices as well!

Oh, those both sound wonderful! Thank you! I guess I didn’t even think about the ferries offering meal options. And I can’t wait! Thanks again, Stuart.

PPS-

Mardee,

This is a year old Steve Marsh video of the Arran ferry. Skip over the train ride if you want.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H-ZVzUPuNbE&t=16s

It's very spooky how You Tube works - it just cropped back up in my feed.

A welcome reminder of Scottish sunshine on a wet early spring day, happy Clyde days!.

They'll be plating the food properly again- that was Covid era serving.

I remember the Glasgow waterbus at the start of the video- that ages me- a great wee service

Ha, Stuart (sorry about auto spelling misspelling your name before!), it is spooky how that happens. It happens with all my feeds - I do a quick one minute search for something and 2 minutes later it shows up on Google or Facebook.

That's a great video! Thanks for sending this - I can't wait to get on board! I really like Steve Marsh's videos - I watched a couple the other day where he and his partner went to Glasgow for some pub hopping. I wrote down the ones that looked interesting, including the Scotia and the Lauriston bar. I'm sure there are more I will be trying.

And then one where they spent a few days on Skye. It's just mesmerizing to watch. They were also down at Elgol to catch a boat. It's not the one I'm taking but it was fun to see the area and know what it looks like.

Don't forget YouTube, which is also a Glaswegian insult, and Google are owned by the same company. In order to practice French and learn Dutch I have used google searches in both those languages, and ended up with YouTube ads in both languages. Including ones telling me as a citizen abroad how to vote for the President of the Republic (France) or as a citizen abroad how to vote for the Eerste Kamer de State Generaal (Dutch senate). I am qualified to vote for neither by not being either a French or a Dutch citizen.

For Mardee's benefit on 10 May (the day you are due to sail to Craignure, Mull) Calmac should be contacting you to tell you that there is a one boat service that day in order to provide cover to the Outer Hebrides. Accordingly the 1555 and 1815 sailings from Oban are cancelled. It will only be the smaller MV Coruisk sailing that day.
I hope this doesn't impact you.

That does affect me, Stuart. My ferry is scheduled for May 10 at 1555 from Oban to Craignure. But I have not had any word from CalMac.

I’m getting ready to board the Ardrossan fairy right now but when I get there, I’ll check on the ferry office and see if they can help me.

Do you know what time the one ferry is sailing? I am taking the ferry from Lochranza to Claonaig, which should be arriving between nine or 09:30.

Mardee- The Coruisk is sailing at 1415, 1705 and 2000.

I was just idly looking at Calmac's ongoing difficulties elsewhere in the system and happened to see that, and an unplanned closure of the port of Castlebay, Isle of Barra later in May.

The big issue is that both boats on the Corran ferry across to Ardgour (a Highland Council route) are also broken down- that is the short cut diversionary route to the Fishnish and Tobermory routes to Mull.
So you have to route via Fort William and Glenfinnan.
Oban to Kilchoan for Tobermory is a 4 hour 30 minute drive (say 5) and to Lochaline (for Fishnish, Mull) is a 5 hour 30 minute drive (say 6).

Toe down from Claonaig you would make the last ferry on either route but hopefully they can fit booked traffic on the 3 Coruisk sailings. CalMac have to provide a better alternative than such a long drive.

Thank you so much! I will check with CalMac when I get to Brodick and see if they can offer any help.

Stuart, here is what I do not understand. When I go to the CalMac website and click on their summer timetables, they give one timetable that is good through May 11. And that one includes the 1555 ferry sailing. Then they have another timetable from 12 May on and that one is different. It seems weird that they would continue posting a timetable that has changed.

Mardee,

This is from the current Route Status Page for the route- https://www.calmac.co.uk/service-status?route=11

(This notice seems to have been posted at 1006 this morning, as I don't believe it was there yesterday, but the South Uist service service page says that the same thing happened last Wednesday- yet the South Uist timetable page has no service at all shown before 12 May. The fact that this happened last Wednesday was why I would have hoped that CalMac would have notified you by e-mail).
Furthermore the app should have notified you.
This is all to provide a once a week service to Lochboisdale, SouthUist, when it should be daily, and relieve pressure on the via Castlebay/Eriskay and the Lochmaddy routes. At the moment the whole situation with the big ships seems to be chaotic due to winter dry dock over-runs and the delayed entry into service of the MV Alfred as relief vessel. The Alfred now herself seems to have an unspecified technical issue and has now been found not to fit at least one link span on the first route she was meant to serve (Islay).
So timetables are being constantly rewritten and the reservation system constantly tweaked. The system is simply failing to keep pace with events.
Until they can get all the big ships all back into service, plus the MV Alfred, in early June (everyone hopes) the situation across the fleet will not ease. It could get worse next January when the MV Alfred goes off charter, if the new Glen Sannox is not yet in service.
I have never seen things so bad.
What on earth happens now if a big ship goes technical in the next 3 weeks is anyone's guess.
On the Highland Council Corran narrows service the army were asked to step in to resolve that situation, but they can't spirit a vehicle ferry from out of thin air, so two emergency passenger services, and an emergency bus service are substituting.

Wednesday 10 May- In order to provide a service to South Uist during the period of cancellations the following sailings will be cancelled: Depart Oban – 07:25, 09:55, 12:15, 15:55, 18:15. Depart Craignure – 08:45, 11:05, 13:55, 17:05, 19:25. Please be advised that due to these cancellations, some connections with other transport operators will not be met. Please note that all booking affected will be contacted in due course.

Anyway whatever the situation and narrative all that matters now is that you have secured passage for Wednesday, and that there are no weather or technical issues affecting your onward passage to Skye next weekend.

To further demonstrate the timetable issue I have just looked at the Eriskay and Castlebay timetables on line- They are both out of date as well.

Anyway whatever the situation and narrative all that matters now is that you have secured passage for Wednesday, and that there are no weather or technical issues affecting your onward passage to Skye next weekend.

So I am really confused now, Stuart. Are you saying that I will be able to get passage on the ferry or not? I’m sorry for my confusion, but I do not understand what is going on. I understand that CalMac is having difficulties, but I am still unclear as to whether I will be able to get the ferry on Wednesday. Thank you for all of your help!

Mardee,

I assumed that Brodick office had resolved this with you yesterday.

If CalMac have still not contacted you (and it sounds not) then you need to call the Oban office on freephone number 0800 066 5000 ASAP. I don't know where you are on Arran but I would be going into Brodick office to sort this face to face as my first task today, and having a very robust conversation with them. I think that conversation would end with 'pay for me to park at Oban, book me as foot pax and pay for taxis on Mull, as you have messed up my confirmed booking'.
Do you have an account with them, where you can look at the status of your booking?

I have just checked and there is no capacity on the Craignure route now on Wednesday., or until 1745 Thursday. So if your booking has not been transferred by them I am very sorry but you are not sailing that route. But all sailings have foot pax capacity.
The other two routes are turn up and go BUT the totally last thing you need is to drive that far, and find the boats full, neither port (Lochaline or Kilchoan) has anywhere close to sleep at, so you would be in a very difficult situation.
I would be asking that I be given a priority status to board at Kilchoan.

This is a deeply unsatisfactory situation, and I am sorry it has arisen.

Stuart, I went to the Brodick CalMac office today. I didn’t go yesterday because there was a long line when I got off the ferry and I was tired and so I just left. But I got there today and talked to one woman. She said that it is true that my ferry was canceled, but that they have rebooked me on the 8 PM ferry.

She also said that there is a ferry around 2 PM and another one around 5 PM that I could try and get on if they have room but she did say that I have a definite booking on the 8 PM ferry. So my plan is just to drive to Oban as scheduled. I will try and get there before the 2 pm ferry, and if that doesn’t work out, I will hang out in Oban and see if I can get on the 5 PM ferry, and if that doesn’t work out, then I will go out to dinner and come back at 7:30.

I asked her why I didn’t receive notification and she said that they have a record that I was sent notice in mid April. I asked her to resend it and it didn’t show up so I’m assuming there’s some glitch in their system or mine. I know that I never saw it and I have gone through emails several times looking for all the CalMac emails so I could keep them organized. It’s possible it went to spam, but I don’t know why it would have, since none of the others did.

Regardless, I gave them a different email address for me and she sent it and I received it this time. So I hope I have no further problems with this. Thank you so much for all your time and effort on this. If it wasn’t for you, I would’ve shown up and not known what to do. I really appreciate it.

Mardee,

That is what this forum is here for. I'm glad it's all concluded well. Hoping there are no more issues on your vacation, and that you enjoy it.

PS- I have my own issues getting to the Highland Games at Gourock on Sunday, due to the train strike in England, and now I've been told of major roadworks in my own town- currently no one can tell me what is happening to the local bus services as there is no diversion route for them. So I have fun and games to come. It will resolve itself somehow. It has kind of complicated it diverting south to Manchester on the way.

Stuart

Stuart
Your knowledge of the transport network is incredible and your willingness to share it with others is wonderful.

Mardee - Have a wonderful time!

Jacqui

Thanks, Jacqui! And Stuart, I hope you make it!

By the way, I had to email the owner of the B&B I’m staying at in Tobermory to let him know that I would not be getting there until probably around 9:30 PM. He was very kind and said that was not a problem, but then he said, “Don’t get me started on CalMac. They are an embarrassment to Scotland.” 😊

it is good when we can help each other

Mardee,
I utterly can not believe I am writing this. We have a service notice timed at 2029 tonight. You need to keep an eye on CalMac re- Wednesday's sailing out of Lochranza.
The MV Catriona has gone technical on the Lochranza to Claonaig run today. Her first two sailings on Tuesday are cancelled, awaiting engineers attention. Although not currently stated on the service notice, if she can't be repaired tomorrow morning they will rob the Loch Class ship off the Tarbert to Portavadie route to provide cover- that is standard practice.
Due to a low tide on Wednesday morning the first two sailings on Wednesday out of Lochranza are at 0815 and 1045. The 0930 is cancelled. But if the Catriona is still tech and they are using the borrowed ship that vessel berths at Tarbert (Loch Fyne) overnight so crew shift hours often mean she can't take the 1st (0815) Lochranza sailing when providing relief cover.
When this happens the timetable is often abandoned and they just shuttle across from Lochranza as soon as the tide is rising again, as fast as turnrounds can be done.
You have all day, as it happens, for a short drive, so can afford to be very, very relaxed about this.
They absolutely will provide cover as the Ardrossan sailings are booked full all week so the Lochranza route is providing vital extra capacity. I've just been looking and there is a ship at Largs which they could reposition if needed as well.

Thanks once again, Stuart. I had planned to be in Lochranza early in time for the first boat so I think I will stick to that and see what happens. And if I have to wait, so be it.

I'm sort of tempted to leave Arran tomorrow and try to get to Oban to see if I can get on a ferry on Tuesday. But that opens up a whole other can of worms dealing with lodging, so it's probably better to try and stick with the schedule.

What is the road like from Craignure to Tobermory? It looks like it will be after sunset for at least part of the drive. Do I need to worry about that? By the way, I got lucky and scored an automatic transmission (and a hybrid) from Arnold Clark. So at least I don't have to worry about shifting gears. :)

I was there last week. The drive from Craignure to Tobermory takes about 30 minutes.

From Craignure to Salen it's one lane in each direction; the speed limit is 60 mph. From Salen, much of the road is single-track until you get close to Tobermory when it again becomes one lane in each direction.

The single-track speed limit is 60 mph but you will go down to 30 or lower as you have to be alert to oncoming traffic. Anticipate oncoming traffic and be prepared to pull into passing places. Always pull into a passing place on your left, not on the right. Pull over to let faster vehicles overtake.

The road twists and turns and there are plenty of blind summits. Put your lights on so other cars see you. The road is in good condition - few potholes in contrast to other roads on Mull

As said above the limit on single track roads is 60 mph, although on the Craignure Tobermory stretch you will no even get to within shouting distance of that. There is a stretch, a tiny stretch near Tobermory where the limit may technically be 70 mph (112 km/h) as it has separate carriageways. On some single track roads people do drive to the limit, I did when I was young and immortal. Apparently Renault Clios are not meant to get airborne, but take your time and only drive to a speed you are comfortable. Let the idiots pass, I was the idiot who was willing do drive 70 mph on a road I would not do 70 km/h now!

As for the ferries, this is going to become a big issue this year. Replacing the fleet is something the Scottish Government has put off since devolution, and the SNP have been in office for 16 years now. The pandemic has not helped, but they are lifeline services and voters remember.

Thanks, MC and ramblin' - and don't worry, I have no intention of going 60 on those roads. Even on the narrow double-track roads on Arran, I've kept it around 40 max (and slower than that much of the time) and pulled over when I could to let the speedsters pass.

MC, instead of a Renault Clio, Arnold Clark gave me a hybrid Toyota Yaris. It's been fine so far and great on gas. And she was able to give me an automatic, instead of the manual I had booked. I can drive a stick shift but it's been awhile and driving with an automatic transmission gives me one less thing to think about as I'm driving.

When you get off the boat at Craignure, I'd pull over into the parking lot until everyone else is off, then you aren't going to be tailgated.
It should be dusk when you disembark, moving to full night just as you get to Tobermory. If the forecast afternoon rain has cleared through you will have had a wonderful passage on one of my favourite short routes, one to be on the open deck for. Nothing beats a night passage on the Gourock to Dunoon route on one of the old 'streakers' (the Planet class ships, of blessed memory) but that's a close second at any time of the day.
I'd love to do the Craignure route on a small ship like you are, rather than the big Isle of Mull, as you had booked.
I wouldn't have thought the road would be busy at that time of night, but as you would at home keep being ready to dip your headlights for approaching traffic. There is nothing worse than someone approaching you on full beam on a 1 or 2 lane road.
I'm not sure if it was in the ettiqutte video, but if you pull over into a passing place for someone, flash them through If it's not quite clear who's doing what, at night. Opposing traffic may pull over for you and flash you through If the passing place is on their side of the road, and they are unsure of your intentions. Anyone out that late will be a local, so know the road well.
Take your time and it'll be fine. Good to have the automatic - one less thing to worry about.

Good tip on passing place night driving etiquette Stuart. The other thing we do here on Skye (especially at night) is to indicate left when pulling into a passing place. We then tend to leave the indicator on until the other car has passed. Saves the glare of light flashing!
Jacqui

Good news just announced, there is an extra big ship sailing tomorrow from Oban to Craignure on the Isle of Lewis, at 1215. It is unbookable, just first come, first served. If that clears some traffic you may well get on the 2pm or 5 pm, if not there by 1145 for 1215.
The Catriona is fixed, and the spare boat from Largs is assisting to clear Lochranza today, So if you get the early sailing tomorrow you should get to Oban in time for the extra 1215.
The Isle of Lewis has delayed her sailing to Barra to fit the extra Mull sailing in.

Thank you once again, Stuart! I am so appreciative of you letting me know all this additional information. I actually drove up to Lochranza today to see how the drive went (it's a beautiful drive - I went up the east coast - and a lovely town). I got there shortly before noon and saw the queue of cars waiting to get on. But then I ran into 4 people who I was talking with the night before at dinner. They were planning to leave on the 9:30 ferry and were still there. I had a quick bite at the Sandwich Shop and then left, but the boat was still sitting there. I hope they made it out.

So that is really good news! It took me about one hour and 15 minutes to get to Lochranza from Lagg, so if I leave by 6 am I should get there in plenty of time for the 8:15 ferry (if it's running). And then get to Oban in time, knock on wood.

BTW, it was an absolutely gorgeous day today! And I'm getting much better at driving these roads. :) Don't worry - I'm still sticking to 40 tops but I feel much more confident.

I’m on the ferry! All the Lochranza ferries were running this morning so I got on the 815 ferry, and made it to Oban by 11 AM. When I arrived at the CalMac ferry terminal, I asked about the 1215 ferry, and they told me they had room on the 11:25 (or thereabouts) ferry. So I got on and I’m getting ready to land in Craignure shortly. Unfortunately, I didn’t get to see much of Oban, but I just wanted to make sure I got on that ferry. Thanks so much for all of your help, especially Stuart!

Mardee,
That's absolutely wonderful news. Better than anyone could have hoped. You can enjoy Mull now, and everything should be easy from here on in.
Thanks for reporting back on progress.
Shame you missed out on a few things on the way up to Oban and on breakfast, but yes the ferry was vital.
I have had AIS tracking on the ferries Catriona and the Isle of Lewis this morning, while transcribing Parish Registers and 19th century Crew Lists. The AIS is so accurate I saw the Isle of Lewis swing off her berth 5 minutes early at 1210, as clearly as if I had been dockside.

well done Mardee

That's great news! Well done Mardee. Enjoy the rest of your trip.

Good new Mardee, and a bit of a reminder that there has always been an element of drive up with CalMac

And I've had good news this afternoon as well. I've been to see the roadworks people and they are letting buses through (but not normal traffic) north of town, and I have managed to get a seat booked on the first Avanti train to Preston, from where I can get a bus to Manchester via Blackburn and Bury. I had to show the ticket office the Avanti timetable as they told me twice no trains were running.
So I should now get into Manchester on Saturday at about 4.30 pm- a 9 to 10 hour journey from Cumbria to Manchester- much better than feared- arriving about 6 hours late. I can live with that.

Thank you again, Stuart, and I’m so glad that your trip is working out!

Nigel, Jacqui, and MC, thank you for all of your good thoughts!

I will be writing a trip report at some point, but I have to tell you that I think the people in the UK, and I’m including both Scotland and England in this, are the friendliest people I have ever met. Every single day, I run into people and we sit there and chat and they are so helpful. I just love everyone here. And I have met so many people from all over the UK. It’s just an incredible experience.

Mardee, so happy to hear that you got on the ferry you wanted.

Thanks, Karen! I am, too, believe me! I'm heading to Iona today and then will go on a Staffa tour to see puffins!

make sure the tour stops at Lunga. No puffins on Staffa.

ramblin' on, I believe that is incorrect. The tour specifically said that there are large numbers of puffins on Staffa (they are also on Lunga) and I confirmed it with a quick Google search. https://www.nts.org.uk/stories/first-count-for-staffa

none last Saturday - I was there. They were all on Lunga

They must have been hiding because I’m on the boat now at Staffa and there are bunches of them. Not as many as Lunga but lots.

Although the name Lunga appears to be from a different etymology it feels appropriate to have the puffins. Lundy means 'puffin island' in Old Norse and is the name of an island in the Bristol Channel between the south west of England and south Wales.

I'm impressed that there was internet out there. By the way there is another Lunga, about 20 miles south- part of the Slate Islands group.
A depopulated island which is impossible to reach, without your own boat.
I've been to Lundy in the Bristol Channel twice- last time I achieved the very rare feat of arriving and departing on the same day on different ships, and using different mainland ports- out of Bideford and back to Ilfracombe.
I was surprised to see the comment about the puffins not being there as there is a video from late April of them on Staffa on the Turus Mara facebook page.
South of that Lunga is an infamous tidal race, worse than the better known Corryvreckan whirlpool a few miles south- another of my wish list items.

I'm impressed that there was internet out there.

Ha ha, you and me both! I’m actually impressed with how few places I’ve struggled to find a signal. It hasn’t been a problem for me at all.

There has been a massive increase in coverage in the last few years.