7 weeks in Scotland 15-May - 3-July, all public transport, itinerary help

There are some much better than me on this site at nitty gritty itinerary stuff but I thought I'd throw out a couple of things for Glasgow.

The most obvious venues for live traditional music in Glasgow are The Ben Nevis, The Scotia Bar and The Clutha Bar. I did a quick Google search and that turned up a great link I'll post here - https://peoplemakeglasgow.com/eat-drink/bars-pubs/bars-in-glasgow-with-free-live-music

This list reminded me of some of the pubs I've been to that I'd rate highly and feature live (mostly trad and folk) music. This includes The Park Bar, Stravaigin, The Snaffle Bit and MacSorleys. Also worth a mention as good pubs with music are Oran Mor and Jinty McGuinty's.

A favourite of mine back in the day was The Variety Bar. DJs and what have you on the weekend. For rock / alternative etc. There's Mono, Nice and Sleazy and King Tut's. For house and techno etc. club nights The Sub Club has been a Glasgow institution since 1987.

What is Glasgow Price?

If you're visiting Ayrshire to see the Fiddle Orchestra let us know where you're going. Ayrshire is rarely mentioned on here as somewhere visitors from abroad go.

I'm not sure of current parlance, but wool is the word that would traditionally be used in preference to yarn in Scotland. That may help you find the older shops in out of the way towns online.

I suggest that you take a look at the Scotrail website. The Grand Tour would be a good route to follow though you might want to buy separate tickets for each leg.

If you do the Scotrail Grand Tour of Scotland then the £89 pass makes far more financial sense than buying individual tickets for the individual legs unless you want to spend multiple days at each destination. But for an 8 day tour the pass gives total flexibility on which train you use. IF you managed to get cheaper tickets for each leg they would be on fixed time trains.

By the way whisky in Scotland is spelled as whisky, whiskey with an e is in Ireland. Personally I think that to choose the whisky tour in Edinburgh just because Rick recommends it is a mistake (there is nothing at all wrong with it)- as opposed to one of the rural distilleries is a mistake, but that is totally personal choice.

With a month at my disposal I would probably do 4 individual weeks.

One of the issues is that Rick leaves a lot of Scotland out- basing solely on RS, you will miss an awful lot

As you are already talking about Glasgow and Ayrshire, and Edinburgh- maybe suggest-
Week 1- Edinburgh (as you have that booked)- as well as the standard stuff that allows for instance time to explore the Scottish Borders, also East Lothian (North Berwick, Dunbar, that kind of thing)
Week 2- Glasgow and Ayrshire. You could base in Glasgow, but equally you could base somewhere on the Clyde Coast- good train services make it easy to get back after evenings in Glasgow to many places on the Coast.
Many of the Clyde Islands (like Arran, Bute and Cumbrae give you good hikes of the kind of length you specify).
Week 3- The Outer Hebrides- you would have to cut up through Skye anyway, but I would go for the Outer Hebs- Barra, the Uists, Lewis and Harris. Maybe fly to Barra for the beach landing, then bus and ferry it up through the Isles ending with several days in Lewis/Harris then fly to Inverness or ferry to Ullapool for Inverness.
Week 4- The North Isles- Orkney and Shetland. You could spend a week on either island group very easily, or split the time. I wouldn't like to choose between Orkney or Shetland for that week. Each is worthy of a week.

An alternative for Week 4 (and these weeks are not necessarily in order) would be North East Scotland- Aberdeen and north thereof. A lot of museums up around Aberdeen (there is a whole thread on that), as well as the wonderful scenery and many splendid walks.

Equally after the Clyde you could very easily spend a week on the Inner Hebrides of Gigha, Islay and Jura (working up to Oban via the Slate Islands (one or 2 day trips) to Oban. For short day hikes from Oban you have the isles of Lismore, Kerrera, Colonsay, Tiree, Coll, as well as Iona and Mull. So much choice.

This could very easily be made 90 or 60 days, not 30 days.

The issue with booking may well be that places have not yet opened bookings for next year, rather than being full up.

All excellent suggestions. I have to admit that RS seems to have a bit of a slant away from the South and I am grateful to a dog-rescue friend who called and harassed me into looking into Arran. So I now have 5 nights in Edinburgh, probably 4 nights on Arran and am researching the locations, time tables and accomodations you mentioned.
I am not keen on multiple short regional flights with their associated airport checking, security and time eating. Also I travel with a service dog and do not like to put him in too many small fights on this 42 day excursion. So I believe I will defer the excellent Harris etc outer isle for others.

I absolutely hear what you say.

But there is also a ferry from Oban to Barra. If you take that over, then the round the island bus (also serves the ferryport for Eriskay/Uist) calls at the airport- where you can watch the beach landing.

The spine bus (as it is called) from Barra all the way to Stornoway has really well integrated connections.

In the UK we have equal rights legislation, which transport (and all other) companies take very seriously. All flights to the isles are primarily 'lifeline' or 'PSO'(Public Service Obligation) flights- to cater for the locals. As such Loganair will be well used to handling dogs like yours. In fact I will bet that if you let them know Loganair air crew will treat you and your dog royally.
Anyone will bend over backwards to help you, and ensure your trip goes well. Honestly the dog is not a barrier to you having a great time.

Also most, if not all flight sectors, are an hour or less. And flights in the isles are like boarding a bus- check in times are minimal, and formalities as brief as they can be. You are not hanging round for hours. It is how we wish all Civil aviation could be, and the views from such low altitude flying are just wonderful.

I hate flying as a rule, but I can not get enough of flying in the Western and Northern Isles.

Don’t forget the middle parts of the highlands. If I had as much time as you have I would definitely spend more time around Ballater/Balmoral area. It’s really pretty, and a friend of mine who was just in Scotland said it was the place she wanted to spend more time. Inverness would be the obvious base in the north if you don’t have a car as you can get day trips from there to see lots of places. Oban might also be an option as you could do day trips to Mull and Iona.

If traditional music is your thing, you might consider staying in Glasgow for a bit, particularly in the Finnieston, Kelvinhaugh, Kelvingrove area. The pubs with live music I mentioned in my earlier post are mainly around this area. Namely, The Ben Nevis, The Snaffle Bit, and The Park Bar. I'd also add The Islay and The Lismore to that list of pubs in this area, though I've never been to the last two. All will have a regular clientele of folks from the Highlands and Islands. Partick, a neighbourhood slightly to the west, is where many people that have moved to Glasgow from up north end up. Talk to the musicians to find out where the next session is happening. Buy them a drink or offer something for their kitty if you're enjoying the music :)

There's also many venues for Irish music around Glasgow. Some will be just jigs and reels, (Jinty McGuinty's that I mentioned earlier is pretty civilised) some are geared more towards people getting drunk to sing rebel songs. Glasgow's a little more Belfast than Dublin in that respect. Definitely still Celtic pubs and Rangers pubs in proliferation. The Celtic pubs are where you'll hear Irish music of course.

Curating your input I have penciled this, debating the middle bit train inverness to Aberdeen to catch some of the northern scenery or cut through the middle and do Pitlochry/Dunkeld

5 night/6 days Edinburgh
train edinburgh to oban
3/4 Oban, (day trip Mull, Iona)
bus to Ft. William/Glencoe
3/4 Ft. William/Glencoe
possibly doing a CRAZY train/ferry/bus/ferry/train travel day of just armchair sights (Ft. william-Maliage, ferry to Sky, bus bit of sky, bus over Skye bridge to Kyle then train from Kyle to Inverness). I know. nuts. alternately, short bus trip from Ft. William to
3/4 Inverness
train to Pitlochry? Dunkeld? Perth? (possibly get off at stops, explore, get train to next city, need to see timetables)
1-2 nights/2-3 days One of the above
train to Glasgow stop visit Stirling
5/6 Glasgow (can train to Ayr for concert, day trips)
train/ferry/bus
4/5 Isle of Arran (hiking, food, bus service around. the entire little island)
which leaves me with 3 days to add into the plan.

Most everyone on here (including me) would recommend Nairn over Inverness for your time in Moray.

I'm pretty meh about Aberdeen too. I haven't spent a lot of time there, just really passing through, but to me it just seemed a bit industrious if that's the word; like just lots of businesses for the oil industry and not much else of note. Other people that know that end of the country better than me may say otherwise, or be able to recommend other places in Aberdeenshire or Banff and Buchan with some more charm.

Here is a recent thread about Aberdeen- https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/scotland/aberdeen-advice-hotels-and-sights
and I'm pretty sure Pam did a Trip Report as well about Aberdeen. Far more than oil.

You admit that your Skye day trip is crazy. If you really want to do it, do, but it all relies on what is basically a once a day bus connection at Armadale and then another connection at Broadford. It is somewhat hairy. Most folk here would say that if you want to do that a better version is at least one night's stay on Skye or even Raasay (an island off Skye, served by ferry).

Lots of good info in that thread. I hope Pam has some input on Aberdeen here.

I suppose my impressions of Aberdeen were set by this bit from a Billy Connolly record of my youth. Warning: strong language! Do not click if you are offended by Scottish swearing [edit: bold was a bit much but do take care]
https://youtu.be/EZQ5i935P7w?si=lu5Fzbh15eLsm0Pj&t=279

Gerry,

I'll PM Pam to get her input as she may not notice this thread.

I read Pam's trip report and opted to skip Aberdeen. I am doing this for now (though refundable, it is all booked lodging) Day trips via train/bus to closeby activities will fit in, not going to be able to do it all, but with service dog and dog friendly Hostel private/ensuite stays, (under $2k) I may be able to return another year if my health holds. If not, my Scottish fae Arran friend says this is "A doable schedule, worthy of a good holiday."
I start this bucket trip May 14 in the US and arrive May 15 EDI via JFK on Delta, hopefully with flight crew friends
Edinburgh 7 days 6 nights, YARN, theatre, tours and comedian tickets booked, time for day trips (Sunday to Dundee and St. Andrews old course dog day)
Train to Pitlochry possibly via Stirling with left luggage at affiliate hostel
Pitlochry 5 days 4 nights, theatre tickets booked
quick train trip to Aviemore
Aviemore 6 days/5 nights Cairngorms hikes, reindeer,
quick train trip to Inverness
Inverness 5 days/4 nights, 2 sections of 2 long distance trails +
Kyle Line to Skye +bus
Sky Portree 5 days/4 nights, Scorrybrea dinner booked! Day tour package, meet friends, YARN
bus to port for Rail/Sail Skye to Mallaig then train to Ft. William.
Fort William 7 days/6 nights, WHW, Great Glen way section hikes
bus/train Oban
Oban 6 days/5 nights, day trips to Mull,
quick train to Grainlarich
Crianlarich 3 days/2 nights WHW section hikes
train to Glasgow
Glasgow 5 days/4 nights day trip to Royal Highlands show (tickets purchased), Stranraer line to Ayr for Burns and Fiddle concert, art, music,
Rail/Sail to Arran
Isle of Arran 5 days/4 nights meet farming friend, YARN, hike, eat
rail/sail return to Glasgow
Glasgow 3days/2night gay Pride, art, pubs
quick train to Edinburgh
Edinburgh 3 days/2 nights Edinburgh part 2, maybe a spa day! Definitely buying final big purchase yarn/food/fabric for checked bag
July 3, hellacious long haul home

I am booking Scotland as a hostel experience because I am draining my funds for this bucket trip, I am over 60, solo traveling female with a large service dog. HostelingScotland has updated properties in some cities with clean, private ensuites and has kept prime real estate in others where proximity to train, hostel and affordable food and drink is common. I want the lounge experience to learn from other travelers. I live on 2 pots of hot tea each morning before I face humanity and access to an electric kettle is all I really need. The thought of a highland breakfast is a struggle, one I suspect I will surmount after days of exposure :). I am thrifty with grocers, small meals and a special splurge here and there. I do not like to "hang out" in my room, preferring to be walking outdoors, watching people, reading, slogging tea and smoking weed. Will miss that last bit in Scotland.

It looks like you've decided against Aberdeen at this time - there is so much to see in Scotland you will do well to curate! If you reconsider later in your planning, here is my Trip Report and I think I've linked it to my paragraph on Aberdeen. I was just there for one full day and had stressed myself out over the possibility of my Loganair flight being cancelled the next day so I was less than attentive. I really think I'd go back there because I did not get out to the Footie area or the beach, nor did I get to the cool bridge, lol. I'd also like to do some of the day trips out of Aberdeen to the surrounding area that some suggested in that other thread.

https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/trip-reports/seymour-travels-scottish-island-tour-orkney-and-shetland

Enjoy your trip planning!!

isn31c I don't know how to link to a previous poster, but I want to thank you (and my dog rescue friend) who encouraged me to consider the smaller local flights to explore. As a result of the UK leaving the EU, I am not allowed to transit with him from the EU and continue on into the UK because he is not from one of 3 international organizations they recognize, this limits me to either EU or UK this trip, so I will explore flying into a more remote location such as Orkney or Shetland, I can stay for a week at each if I keep my current travel dates and that is what you said. then taking regional flight to edinburgh. Waiting to hear back from the Extrodiaire representative to confirm I can fly within the UK as usual.

I doubt anyone but me will ever read this, but My trip is looming and the weather is cooler there than where I live. I find myself constantly focusing on the future and weather as the trip looms. I have kept the itinerary I last posted. I have booked all train travel and for the rest of you, any of those train passes are not helpful if you are traveling more than 8 days. I am in the country for 7 weeks. If you travel, stay 5 days and then travel, you are best to purchase individual tickets. Bus travel is seasonal and varies by region. I have purchased rail cards, concession cards and memberships to 2 scottish organizations; one to get me in gardens and one to get me in museums. I think Portree is my wildest card on this trip as it is PACKED in June and bus service is limited to 1-2 times/day for most destinations. No travel company will take me and my service dog. (there was ONE, but they are booked and I had hoped to avoid a booked tour). So Skye, I have booked dinner reservations for each night. I have packed lunches for each day and I will take the great advice of the private tour guide who gave me bus and hike schedules. I'll give a trip report, but it is slanted for public transport and especially anyone traveling with a service dog.

There are a couple of good yarn places here in Skye.

1. Shilasdair naturally dyed yarn. Reachable by bus number 57A from Portree towards Staffin - timetable here - you will need to scroll down to the 57A

1. Isle at the Edge at Edinbane. Possibly reachable by bus number 56 (see link above) depending on time of day.

2. The Hand Spinner having fun in Broadford. Reachable by bus 52 but also by the Citylink buses heading to Inverness and Glasgow.

Hope you have a great trip. We just had guests from Knoxville, TN and they found it very chilly and windy here!

You might be surprised who reads but doesn’t comment. So definitely come back with a trip report! You will have some unique things to contribute.

A month in Scotland will be amazing and you seem to have settled on a calm doable itinerary. It’s not possible to see or do everything - only to enjoy what we do see. So good for you. I spent a month in Scotland in 2022 (2nd trip) and could have stayed longer - lol. I did one of my not-very-common hostel stays (in Tarbert) and loved it for the kind of people staying there, as much as for the place itself.

Enjoy - trip time is almost here!

Some little bits of detail which are varying a little bit from the plan-

Ayr- The train from Glasgow to Ayr is terminating at Prestwick for the foreseeable future after a major fire at the derelict former Station Hotel. There is a shuttle train running from Prestwick to the half of a platform at Ayr which is safe to use. It isn't a problem, more a minor nuisance and a surprise to anyone not expecting it.

Arran- Recheck your schedules. Half the service is running from Ardrossan as originally scheduled, and half from Troon (a new port for Calmac). For Troon sailings a shuttle bus is running from Troon Railway Station to the port. A connecting bus is also running from Glasgow, but is probably not suitable for your dog owing to excessively tight legroom (as tight as a budget airline).

For your day trips to Mull (if you are not doing them as West Coast Motors Tours), then even as a foot passenger it is essential currently to pre book your ferry tickets. The ships currently on the route are not the usual ships, and capacity is much reduced. Hopefully that will have changed back to normal by the time you get there, but best to be prepared.

Do re-check your Skye bus schedules especially- as new Summer Schedules come into force on 20 May 2024 (not yet published but we know it is happening) and fares on Skye rose by 6% on 31 March- now £9.20 for a Day Rider and £31 for a Weekly Megarider plus £1 for the plastic card for your Megarider to be stored on.

Thank you so much! I had planned to see those yarn shops on Skye and also a croft that raises some of the sheep and makes yarn.
I may ask my orchestra friends to pick me up if the train terminates at an odd spot in Ayr. Thank you!
I have booked rail to Androssan.
I have booked the ferry from Androssan, I believe the Troon is not accepting foot passengers?
I have a backup plan to use a car service to reach the ferry on Skye. the bus service will get whatever they want for fares, I can't argue. I am leaving via the ferry to take the train over Glenfinnian and enjoy that scenery.

I so appreciate your responses. If I manage this trip, I have told my adult kids I would take them for a week next year.

The Troon service is accepting foot passengers. Because the long closed port was re-opened in a huge hurry (after Peel Ports closed the 2nd berth at Ardrossan unexpectedly) there were initial problems with the foot passenger arrangement.
In fact initially the old P and O terminal building was not even available for use at Troon and foot passengers were bussed straight from Ardrossan onto the car deck at Troon. The terminal building is now open.

Things have settled down now, there is now a designated and well marked path for pedestrians from the port gates.

One of the odd things is that the Citylink bus states that it drops at the terminal. It doesn't, it drops at the port gates. You then walk in to the terminal along that path.

Foot passengers then walk down the link span, and onto the car deck, then taking stairs or elevator to the passenger lounge.

Apologies if you already know this, but have you checked the fairly strict rules for bringing an assistance dog into the UK?https://www.gov.uk/bring-pet-to-great-britain?step-by-step-nav=9c8e6e6d-29f7-41d3-bc31-efcf20ee0d69

Thank you. Apology accepted. You are quite late to the party. As a seasoned international traveler, Spirit knows the drill. Unfortunately, since the UK left the EU, assistance dog travel is more difficult for both visitors and UK citizens as well. That is why this trip is UK only as they will not accept him if we travel through EU first unless we travel on a US flagged plane. We had (of course) booked regional air for a fraction of the cost, thus the now 7 weeks trip to Scotland instead of 3 weeks in EU and 4 in Scotland.