A drive too far? Itinerary question: Portree to Kirkwall--too much for a day?

The short answer is 'yes' - this is complete madness. You wouldn't have time to see anything except as the scenery flashed past as you drove along. Also the route is likely to be pretty busy as the North Coast 500 as it is known is a pretty major tourist draw and attracts camper vans, motor cycles, and every other kind of motorised transport. I live on Skye as there is no way I would try to do that journey in a day. The most scenic stretches are on the west cost, many people say the north coast is less spectacular. If your Orkney nights are going to all be on the 'mainland' of Orkney then you can probably manage to see most of the prehistoric sites in 2 days. So you can probably free up a night for a stop en route from Skye.

Hi, Scott,

It's not something I'd want to do. :)

If you have your heart set on three days on Orkney, including your travel day, then by all means, go for it. The fastest way from Portree to Scrabster is to take the A87 to Auchtertyre; the A890 to Achnasheen; the A832 to Garve; the A835 to Contin; the A834 to Dingwall; the A862 to Findon Mains; and finally, the A9, which will take you directly to Scrabster.

However, by taking this route, you completely miss the Northwest coast of Scotland, which is arguably the most beautiful stretch of road in the world. If you don't mind spending an extra day on the mainland, or can push your third day on Orkney forward, you really want to spend that extra day exploring.

Take the A890 to Strathcarron, but instead of heading east on the A890, head west on the A896 toward Lochcarron, then follow the coast up through Glen Torridon, Gairloch, Ullapool, Lochinver, and Scourie, on your way to Durness.

As you're traveling in late May, there are three ferries per day serving the Scrabster to Stromness route. You'd have to make it to Thurso in one day to be able to catch the 8:45 a.m. ferry the following morning. That doesn't include being there half an hour early to check in.

If you do decide to take the Northwest coast route, I'd recommend overnighting in Scourie or Durness. That would still leave you at least four hours to Scrabster, but if you get an early start, you could catch the 1:15 ferry to Stromness.

A lot of the roads on that route are slow going, so judge your time accordingly.

Personally, I hope that you take the extra day to enjoy the coastal route! :)

But whatever you decide, have a wonderful holiday!

Mike (Auchterless)

Agree - that's utter madness.

Peel off part of a day from somewhere and avoid killing yourself and missing the good stuff enroute.

You know you can fly to Kirkwall, right? That's what I did. I was in the Outer Hebrides (Lewis) - which is even further out there than Portree - and had limited time as well. It was a simple matter to take the plane. I flew Stornoway to Kirkwall (with a brief connection in Inverness). Easy peasey, efficient, stress-free, not terribly expensive.

Orkney is great, you will love it.

A drive too far? Portree to Kirkwall?!!?!?! Yes.

Thanks for the advice. I had a feeling that was too far to drive.

David: I thought about flying, but wanted to see West Ross. I really want to visit Lewis someday.

Mike: Great advice. We bought our plane tickets today and decided to add a day to enjoy the northwest. That will still give us three nights in Orkney, but break up the drive so we can stay in or near Durness.

Now that I have extra time, does anyone have any sights worth diverting to on the west coast?

Thanks again, this should be a fantastic trip.
Scott

Late to the party, but in a repeat I would suggest breaking the journey at Inverness or the Black Isle, or somewhere else in Easter Ross or Sutherland.

If looking for accomodation in Caithness near the ferries, do not look in John O'Groats, look at Thurso or Wick.

Hi again, Scott,

Glad to hear that you've given yourselves an extra day.

As far as things to see and do along the way, there are many, some involving scenic side road drives. As you're not planning to drive all the way through to Scrabster, you'll have more time to drive and enjoy.

As you leave Skye on the A87, you have the option of taking the side roads for Drumbuie, Duirinish, and Plockton. There are Highland cows in the roadway at Duirinish, and Plockton is one of the most charming villages in the Highlands. You can cut across to the A890 from there, along the shore of Loch Carron.

If you don't go that way, you have the option of visiting the Lochalsh Woodland Garden about three miles along the A87. There is a circular walk that takes you through some lovely woods and plantings, with views over Loch Alsh.

There are magnificent views across Loch Carron from the top of the A890. Once you get to Lochcarron village, check out the athletic field at the west end of the village to see if there might be a shinty match going on. There is a self serve car wash at the garage in Lochcarron, if your car needs a hosing down. It may be the only car wash west of Inverness.

Stay on the A896 for a few miles to the turn off for the Bealach-na-Ba, which is the road to Applecross. The view from the top, back over Loch Kishorn and Loch Carron, is absolutely stunning. Once you arrive in Applecross (toilets at the campsite), follow the coastal road to Shieldaig.

Once you're back on the A896, follow it through Glen Torridon, through the Beinn Eighe Nature Reserve. You have the option of a short hike in the area of Liathach.

At Kinlochewe, turn left on the A832 for Gairloch, which is a good place to stop for a meal. If you are beach people, the beach and dunes at Big Sand are worth a brief stop. Heading north from Gairloch, the next village is Poolewe, where you'll find the excellent Inverewe Gardens.

The A832 loops around Gruinard Bay and Little Loch Broom, and meets up with the A835 at Braemore. Take a few minutes to walk down to the bridge over the Corrieshalloch Gorge and waterfall. Head north on the A835 for Ullapool.

After Ullapool, you have a couple of options. At Drumrunie Lodge, you can turn left on the unclassified road for Achiltibuie and Loch Lurgainn. Stac Pollaidh is the uniquely shaped mountain on the right as you pass Loch Lurgainn. Don't go all the way to Achiltibuie, but instead, take the unclassified road on the right just past the end of Loch Lurgainn. This is the "Wee Mad Road," and will take you to Lochinver.

If you don't have time to detour via Loch Lurgainn, keep going up the A835 to Ledmore Junction, where you'll turn left on the A837. Stay on the A837 to Lochinver.

After you reach Lochinver, follow the B869 through Stoer and Drumbeg. This is a road not to be missed!

The B869 ends at the A894, which you'll follow north to the village of Scourie. If you get there around sunset, and it looks as though it will be a good one, a short side trip to the hamlet of Badcall would be a great place to see the sun dipping below the horizon. Scourie would be a good place for an overnight, unless you plan to push on to Durness, which is another 25 miles up the road.

From Scourie, the A894 takes you to Laxford Bridge, where you'll meet up with the A838 for Durness. If you're not pressed for time, a side trip to Kinlochbervie might be worth your time, and if you have about six hours to spare, the hike out to Sandwood Bay is well worth it. The path starts from near Oldshoremore, and Sandwood Bay has the most spectacular beach on the Scottish mainland.

From Durness (Balnakeil Bay is worth a visit), you'll head across the top of the mainland for Thurso and Durness. Much of the scenery is bleak and barren, but beautiful in its own way. Give yourselves plenty of time to get to Thurso and Scrabster, as there are no fast roads.

Continued...

If you have time, check out the Highland Clearances Museum at Bettyhill. This part of Scotland was once more densely populated, especially in the straths (low lying valleys). Most of the crofters were forcibly removed from this area in the 19th. century, to make way for sheep, which the landlords thought would be more profitable. Later, great swaths of the area were given over to shooting estates.

Tongue is the only major village you'll encounter on your way to Scrabster, and as you skirt Loch Eriboll ("Loch 'Orrible"), this is where the last of the German U-Boats surrendered at the end of World War II. Loch Eriboll was a major British Naval staging area during the war. I haven't seen it myself, as it was misty the last time I was through, but apparently the sailors who were stationed there made rock formations with the names of their ships on the hillside overlooking the village of Laid on the western shore.

I hope that's enough information to get you started on your drive along Scotland's Northwest coast. Have a wonderful time on your holiday!

Slainte!

Mike (Auchterless)

p.s.: Say hello to Rose.

p.p.s.: As a good portion of your route is on the North Coast 500 (NC500), check out some of the several NC500 related websites for additional sightseeing areas, as well as suggestions for accommodation and eating. On second thought, maybe you'd better not look - you'll want to spend more time there!

What a great description Mike! You've made me want to take a wee trip up there myself.

Wow, Mike! What wonderful suggestions. You are the best. You make me wish I could add 3 extra days to explore the area. I can't wait to see this area.

Slainte!
Scott

And speaking of Beinn Eighe/Torridon...

www.dailyrecord.co.uk/lifestyle/outdoors/alan-rowan-mist-opportunity-beautiful-2466253

Enjoy!

Mike (Auchterless)