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8 days in Scotland last of August first of September without a car

After an education conference, we will staying in Scotland for a short tour. Where is a good base for someone without a car to see a good bit of Scotland? I prefer train travel. We dont mind moving around and pack lightly with backpacks, so multiple stops is an option. I like water activities, boating, hiking, biking (not mountain biking). I would love to see some wildlife and birds, sadly, no puffins this time of year. Also, trying to get in the Jacobite Steam train. I am aware of the challenge to obtain tickets. My hubbie likes Scotch Whiskey and sailing. I don't want to see crowds of tourist disembark from buses or cruise ships and so am trying to avoid the usual suspects. We are also trying to avoid the midges. I greatly appreciate all help from you experienced travelers. Huge thank yous!

Posted by
81 posts

I would consider a train loop - Edinburgh to Inverness, I personally prefer the through the middle route that mirrors the A9 road route. Most of the stops are great places to visit.

Then a bus down to Fort William - there's your chance to meet the Jacobite steamer but I think you are too late for tickets - then train back to Edinburgh, possibly via Glasgow.

Trains can only achieve so much but you can tick off a reasonable amount of your list.

I would always recommend the seabird centre at North Berwick (east of Edinburgh) if you end up staying in Edinburgh for a few days and doing a short trip out and about

Posted by
3 posts

thank you! I did get tickets for the steam train on August 29, so, that is the first day of my adventure. so, will be a long day. We will have to get from Glasgow to Fort Williams in time for the afternoon train. The train ends at Mallaig. Would anyone suggest staying in Mallaig for the evening? I am also interested in the Kyle line, traveling west to east. That might be a complicated connection. But, we could take a day or two to make the travel to Kyle of Lochalsh and then on to Inverness. Is that a doable plan? I have many recommendations to travel to St Andrews next after Inverness. Maybe, a lot of travel for 8 days. Glad to have input. thank you.

Posted by
1835 posts

I'm a bit confused as tickets on the Jacobite Steam train will be returns, taking you back to Fort William the same day and the afternoon train will get you back about 7pm. (If you decided to stop at Mallaig, you would have to buy another ticket to return on the Scots Rail train the next day....)

Stay the night in Fort William and next morning catch the bus to Inverness. DO the Kyle of Lochalsh line from Edinburgh - and it is well worth doing - very different to the West Highland Line but equally as good. Sit in the right hand side of the train leaving Inverness as that will give the best views of teh coastline. Then sit on the left side for the return journey.

Inverness is a good base for trips to Culloden and Clava Cairns. (Good bus service) Alternatively you can use the train to visit Elgin with its ruined Cathedral. Alternately book a Rabies Day trip for whisky and to see a bit of the countryside or this one for whisky and Dunrobin CAstle

Posted by
3122 posts

Re: "travel to St Andrews next after Inverness." Are you particularly interested in golf? If so, you'll want to take the Old Course walking tour (which is really mostly standing around listening to the guide describe what various famous golfers did in various tournaments). Even if golf isn't a strong interest, the British Golf Museum is really nice, with exhibits to appeal to everyone. Their cafe is upstairs with huge picture windows overlooking the 1st / 18th tee. You can also play the "Himalayas" (putting course); they'll rent you a club and you don't have to have golf shoes, just wear footwear with flat heels.

Be aware that St. Andrews is a fairly long trip from Inverness.

Posted by
1376 posts

Hi, mkorndor,

If you want to do the West Highland Line, and the Kyle line, including taking the Jacobite, you'd have to take a ScotRail train from Glasgow to Fort William, then change platforms for the Jacobite. As Wasleys pointed out, you have to purchase a round trip ticket for the Jacobite, even though you're staying overnight in Mallaig. I'd recommend the West Highland Hotel as the best of the bunch there, although there are several other options.

From Mallaig, take the ferry to Armadale, then either bus or taxi to Kyle of Lochalsh (unless you're planning to spend some time on Skye), where you can take the Kyle Line to Inverness.

From Inverness, you'd have the option of two routes to St Andrews: via Aberdeen (one change) or via Perth and Dundee (two changes). Either way, you would get off the train at Leuchars and take the bus to St Andrews.

As you're travelling (mostly) by train, that sort of limits your options for outdoor activities. However, there are several opportunities for sailing and hiking activities if you spend some time on Skye; some good hikes out of Mallaig; and several good walks out of Inverness. If you make it to the East Neuk of Fife, there is a boat trip to the Isle of May from Anstruther. You can also break your train journey on the Kyle Line, and visit places like Duirinish or Plockton (where you can find some good walks and also sail on Calum's Seal Trips).

Hope that helps a little bit.

Enjoy your time in Scotland (how could you not!).

Best wishes,

Mike (Auchterless)

Posted by
3 posts

Thank you Wasleys and Mike-
I will take you advice and keep the round tickets on the steam train. I believe we will stay two nights in Fort William afterwards, traveling to Inverness to stay and the Ness Walk for a few days and then head to Edinburgh for the last several days. only have one day unplanned between Inverness and Edinburgh. Anyone with advice on hotels in Fort William. I haven't read many good reviews on any hotels there.