7 Nights Isle of Skye - Itinerary Suggestions

Skye is a large island and you will have no trouble filling your time. The island is divided into a number of peninsulas, so could focus on a different one each day. The Walk Highlands website is the best resource for finding great walks and hikes and their site breaks Skye up into different areas, broadly corresponding with the peninsulas. The site can also help you avoid the busiest sites (Old Man of Storr, Neist Point, Fairy Pools, Kilt Rock). I can assure you that any walk you choose will be equal to those 'honey pots'. The site covers Raasay too.

Some of my favourites are as follow - none are particularly hilly, but take you into some fine scenery and away from crowds. Each is in a different part of the island and if you like the sound of them, they could be the focus of the best part of a day each.

Point of Sleat - you could then explore the Sleat loop road and the small shops of Armadale. Good cafe at An Crubh community shop on the way back up towards Broadford.
Rubh an Dunain - park at Glenbrittle beach, cafe at campsite. Maybe take a peek at Fairy pools on the way back to your accommodation.
Dun Fiadhairt - near Dunvegan but very little known area. Most rush through to get to the Coral Beach (which has a wholly inadequate car park for the number of visitors! Maybe include Dunvegan Castle on this day. Various food options in Dunvegan and the castle has a good cafe in their car park.
Waternish Point - Waternish peninsula. Maybe also visit the ruined church of Trumpan. Yurt cafe at Skye Skyns. Some small galleries including a pottery and an artist on the Waternish. Also Donnie's Tablet shed at Geary - one of our famous honesty boxes selling local produce and crafts. They can be found all over, but Donnie's Tablet is a must!
Isle Oronsay - Cafe at Struan - Bog Myrtle. This is presumably very close to your second base camp in Skye. (NB: there is another Isle Oronsay on the Sleat Peninsula).

Good restaurants include The Dunvegan and The Old School in Dunvegan, and Gasta @ Isle of Skye visitor centre in Portree. For fine dining there's Lochbay in Stein, Edinbane Lodge in Edinbane, Kinloch Lodge on the Sleat peninsula, Scorreybreac in Portree.

Hope this helps
Jacqui (Skyegirl)

We did the Old Man, and it was a bit windy, but there were not large crowds. We also did the loop around the Quiraing, and there were very few fellow hikers. This was in mid-May, so maybe it gets more crowded.

Edinbane Inn is a nice pub with good food and local music at times. I enjoyed my meal there very much; especially as it had some good non-seafood options. I enjoy seafood but sometimes you want something else. :-) You can stop at Edinbane Pottery while you're there as they have some wonderful pieces.

I also ate at Frasers and the Bracken Hide on the outskirts of Portree. It’s a hotel with guest pods and a restaurant and bar. While I was there, I met a couple from Memphis and we wound up sharing a table together. The food was wonderful! I had grilled salmon that melted in my mouth and a berry mousse that will live forever in my taste buds. The only problem was the service, which was not so good. They had some younger servers there who were inexperienced, and the newness of the place (it had only been open a month or so) led to some glitches. But my Memphis friends and I got along so well that our dinner stretched to over 3 hours and by the end of it, we were laughing hysterically over the service misadventures. And we all agreed that the food more than made up for the bad service. I would hope that by now the service has been straightened out, as this was back in May of 2023. :-)

Whatever you choose food-wise, make sure you have reservations ahead of time! I would book as far ahead as possible for for the nicer restaurants but even the pubs and smaller places need to be booked a few days ahead of time.

Thank you all so much for all these wonderful suggestions! It's giving me so much to research to start to narrow down itinerary and also make some food reservations.

Mardee,

Edinbane Inn has just changed hands. They re-opened on 14th April and I don't know what the new food offering will be like as I haven't been there since the new people took over. The new owners have told local musicians that there will NOT be live music sessions any more. This is very sad and will likely affect the amount of local and tourist business that they get.

The best bet for that is either the Old Inn in Carbost, Seamus' bar at the Sligachan Hotel (which has two excellent young musicians most Sunday afternoons from 1pm to 3pm through the summer), or 1820 in Portree, which has a regular Sunday afternoon session with various local musical talent (any trad players welcome to join in).

Jacqui

If you’d be interest in fine dining, west of Dunvegan there’s the excellent Three Chimneys restaurant, with a Michelin Star. Reservations are a must.

When we left after dinner, around a curve and at a wee bridge, sheep had laid down on the road. That was a surprise, and it took some coaxing to get them to move enough for us to get our rental car by them. If you’re coming from London, driving on the left side of the road may not be as different for you as it was us, but you probably don’t encounter that many more sheep!

Cyn,
The Three Chimneys is very good (and I can see it from my house!) but alas it hasn't had a Michelin Star since 2016 when chef Michael Smith left to set up his own restaurant, the Lochbay. He soon won the star back at Lochbay and has retained it ever since. Lochbay remains the only Michelin starred restaurant in Skye. The Three Chimney, Scorrybreac and Edinbane Lodge are listed in the Michelin Guide but do not have a star.

Jacqui

Our last trip to Skye we really enjoyed spending one day exploring the area next to Skye. The route (110 miles) was Portree - Duirinish (highland cows in village) - Plockton (a pretty small village) for lunch - photo stop at Eilean Donan castle (no need to actually visit the castle) - Gleneig to take the ferry to Kylerhea - back to Portree. You can do the drive in either direction.

Also, if you are looking for a memento of your trip, Skye Silver, near the Three Chimneys and the coral beach, has lovely pieces, most with a Celtic motif.

Cynthia, great recommendation for the Duirnish, Plockton, Glenelg route. The excellent croft cafe in Duirnish is on a working croft with Highlands Coos. There's also a nice cafe at Balmacara Square and the pub in Glenelg is very good. The manually operated turntable ferry from Glenelg back to Kylerhea in Skye is a good way to come 'home' to Skye.

Sadly Skye Silver don't make any of their pieces on the island, so I prefer to recommend Love from Skye in Broadford. A wonderful family run jewellery business (almost opposite the COOP supermarket), where they design and make all their pieces on site. Many celtic designs, or you could buy a traditional quaich (a two handled drinking vessel often used at gatherings such as weddings or baptisms to offer a welcoming drink), or a Harris tweed teddy bear made by the owner's mum.

Jacqui

Wanderlust, this is the link to the roadtrip around Skye that we followed. This way we were able to see all the important sites and scenic areas in an orderly fashion and without doing any backtracking.

https://www.ontheluce.com/isle-of-skye-itinerary/

Here are some restaurants we enjoyed on Skye:

Edinbane Inn in Edinbane- about a 15 minute drive from Portree
A Taste of India in Portree
The Old Inn located on Loch Harport
Fraser at Bracken Hide in Portree
The Rosdale down by Portree Harbor - love the appetizers; main dishes were mediocre; very friendly bartender

Jacqui, I hadn’t realized the current history at the Three Chimneys. Thanks for the update. I found an article about the status of the restaurant
https://www.londonbornandbred.co.uk/post/dinner-at-the-world-famous-three-chimneys-skye#:~:text=Head%20Chef%20Scott%20Davies%20hasn,he%20is%20chef%2Dproprietor),

and it says about the current chef not pursuing regaining that Star:

That doesn't make the menu at the Three Chimneys any the poorer, or the friendly and knowledgeable service any less attentive.

Cyn,
Indeed the Chimneys is still a very good restaurant. They have recently changed head chef again with Scott Davies moving to a castle hotel/restaurant in Perthshire. The new chef has only very recently introduced his own menu and this will be his first season at the helm. There have certainly been some issues at the Chimneys as the General Manager has also very recently departed. They've also got plans to massively expand, doubling the size of the restaurant and building two new bedroom blocks and some glamping pods. Many people I know work there and living so close we are privy to a lot of the goings on there....

Jacqui

Ha ha, Jacqui, it sounds like major changes are happening at the Three Chimneys! With all the planned expansion, maybe that twisty, narrow road to get there will become a 6-lane highway, and could the sheep previously bedding down on the warm asphalt be replaced by elephant seals?!?

I hope any changes there will be for the better, for everyone involved. Skye’s such a special place, it doesn’t need to become a high-rise resort with a mega food court!

Loads of good advice above so I’ll just add in my own tuppence worth about walks in general.

Walkhighlands is an excellent resource for planning walks throughout Scotland,it’s well worth a study.(I also used to like Mary Welsh’s lovely series of books on walks in specific areas…she did one for Skye,Quite old now and I don’t think they will have been reprinted.)

My favourite walk on Skye is from the parking area at Kilmarie, down the Elgol road, then following a good track, very stony for the final section, up to the high point above Camasunary.The view over to the Black Cuillin above Camasunary bay is just a jaw drop.The path ascends for about 200m or just under so there is a bit of huff and puff.You can also follow it down to the bay itself which is glorious on a sunny day( with a 200m or so pull back up!) There have been , sadly, litter problems on the beach in the past (washed up from boats/shipping) but last time we were there it was fine.An amazing spot and usually hardly a soul there.

A restaurant I’m really keen to try down the Elgol road is Coruisk House which looks lovely.This year perhaps!

Agree with Skyegirl about Point of Sleat and Rubh an Dunan as walks…the former will also take you to what I think is Skye’s best beach(the island is not really renowned for beaches)…Camus Darach.Lovely white sands.

Uphill all the way but around 90mins- 2 hrs will take you up to Coire Lagan and the beautiful high Lochan there beneath the Cuillin peaks.A well trodden trail giving stunning views.

If you want to escape the Fairy Pool crowds then exit the parking area at the opposite end and follow the big forestry track as it gradually ascends to a fabulous viewpoint over the Black Cuillin.Last July I sat up at the high point and enjoyed the vistas with the only company being a sea eagle which flew below me briefly before disappearing out of sight.

A walk round the tiny tidal island of Oronsay is gorgeous too.Check tide tables of course!

Ben Tianavaig takes about an hour or a little more to ascend…good track once you are on the ridge itself, no difficulty and again, we’ve been lucky each time to watch a golden eagle sweeping across the high moorland up there.The views up and down the coast are just out of this world.

Little Dun Caan on Raasay is also a cracker of a wee hill to do.The easiest option(I’m always for that!) is to drive north on Raasay beyond Holoman towards Balmeanach where there car parking and the walk is signposted and gives you a nice high start.The walkhighlands route is much longer with more ascent and starts from the village itself.

I love Edinbane Lodge, to me it’s offered the best fine dining on the island these past few years but I’m giving the Three Chimneys another go this summer.Have always enjoyed the latter too.The family have raved about Lochbay but we had a very disappointing meal there and have never gone back.Maybe we were unlucky but it does put you off.

For a meal with a stunning view, we’ve found the Cuillin Hills above Portree to have improved a lot recently and enjoyed Sunday lunch there on a couple of occasions.

Am Praban bar in Isle Ornsay is a favourite , usually really good tasty food and some of the best Langoustines ever.Venison is excellent too if on the menu.You can also eat more expensively in the hotel itself, lovely food there.

An Crubh, the shop/deli/cafe not far away also serves some really nice food though day time only.

Haven’t eaten in Kinloch Lodge since it changed chefs a couple of years back but it used to be excellent…they do afternoon tea too(or did.) Beautiful place.

The Duisdale also does reasonably good food, though can be a bit mixed and not cheap.

I’d also seriously think about doing the Loch Coruisk boat trip from Elgol…to me, the No 1 excursion to do if the weather is half decent.Fantastic trip into the heart of the Cuillin, glorious scenery and a short walk to Coruisk itself which has an almost gothic quality to it, savagely beautiful.

Wow wow wow! This is such a wealth of knowledge. THANK YOU! I am going to try and do as many of these suggestions as I possibly can. So many of these hike suggestions sound exactly like what we're looking for and will definitely look into the boat trip from Elgol as i'm obsessed with sea life (whales in particular) and being on the water. Thank you all so much!

Just got back from our perfect 6 night trip and wanted to write a quick update and thank everyone for the great suggestions. Was incredibly helpful. We did so much but also kept to a relaxed pace which fit our travel style.

Here's a quick breakdown of our itinerary with reviews/eats in case helpful to anyone else. Overall we loved Skye and didn't find the driving to be that bad (we are not British) or the crowds to be a problem. Was very easy to get away from it all...

Day 1 - Drove from Inverness to Sconser (took less scenic route) to catch 1pm ferry to Raasay. Rainy, super foggy day so we spent the rest of the day at our accommodation Raasay Distillery. Beautiful distillery/hotel. Enjoyed the tour + generous whiskey and gin pours. Limited food selections but decent overall. Comfy room and bed.

Day 2 - Explored Raasay. Weather cleared up and we spent the first part of the morning hiking Dun Caan (had the mountain to ourselves). Had lunch at the other hotel cafe and then took the well appointed coastal path around the island. Highly recommend this glorious little gem of an island. Took 5pm ferry back. Drove to our hotel in Portree. Dinner at hotel which was unmemorable.

Day 3 - Explored the fairy pools. I understand both arguments in terms of feeling overrated and worth it. Definitely not our highlight but we enjoyed. Was crowded but expected worse. Was a windy day which kept the midges away. Had lunch at the Oyster Shed. Was honestly a bit underwhelmed. Went back to Cuillins Inn (our hotel with a gorgeous view of the harbor) and enjoyed some R&R. Did Scorrybreac trail from our hotel. Was peaceful, easy and lovely. Ate dinner at Scorrybreac (7 course tasting). Delicious and unique but portions are small and wasn't totally full despite large price tag. Wine was excellent.

Day 4 - Hiked Old Man Storr. Gorgeous clear day. Epic hike. Loved it. Lower down on the hike we encountered the dreaded midges but they disappeared as the elevation gained. Was crowded for sure but coming from London it didn't seem that bad. Went back into Portree for lunch and found a gem of a place Summer House Cafe. Had the most delicious foccacia sandwiches and iced lattes (yes it was that warm)! Had to do a little work so headed back to the hotel for a few hours to enjoy the view while on the computer. Did cheap easy take out from Pizza in the Skye and ate out on the lawn. Husband is Italian so didn't quite live up to those standards but was decent and cheap.

Day 5 - Was the most beautiful day of the trip. Blue skies and T-shirt weather. Hiked Quairing. Was magical and spectacular. Ate a burger + grilled cheese after from the food truck. We then made some quick viewpoint stops on our drive heading to Neist Point Lighthouse. Gorgeous. Dinner at Edinbane Lodge. I think we may not be expensive set menu people. Food was good but both were still hungry and my fish was too salty. We left a bit disappointed and felt it was overpriced. But service was lovely.

Day 6 - Said goodbye to our gorgeous room and view at Cuillins Inn ($$$ + but we did enjoy our stay + breakfast was large and v. good) We made our way to Elgol for the Misty Boat trip. Was a little windier of a day but still gorgeous. Enjoyed the boat ride and exploring Loch Coruisk. Totally different landscape vibe than what we'd already seen. Grabbed lunch at The Creel take-away truck. Husband loved the fish salad. Headed to our final night accommodation at Eilean Larmain in Ornsay. Very different style/vibe of a hotel. Enjoyed some drinks on the lawn and had a great meal of langoustines, fish and chips + Venison stew. Enjoyed one last sunset as the clouds rolled in. Next morning was rainy and windy... our cue to leave. We took the scenic drive back to Inverness. Stopped a few times along the way. Had early dinner and explored Inverness for a couple hours before catching our 8pm flight back to London.

Thanks Skye! 10/10 will return again!

Thanks for sharing. I'm so glad the weather on Skye decided to cooperate for you.

Wanderlust, your trip sounds absolutely wonderful, and I'm so glad you enjoyed it. I'm especially glad that you made it to Raasay as that has a special place in my heart.

Thanks for reporting back!

Edinbane Inn has just changed hands. They re-opened on 14th April and I don't know what the new food offering will be like as I haven't been there since the new people took over. The new owners have told local musicians that there will NOT be live music sessions any more. This is very sad and will likely affect the amount of local and tourist business that they get.

Jacqui, that's too bad; especially about the music. Have you heard anything since then about them? I did notice that their reservation system has changed. They used to allow locals to reserve a table (or walk in) way in advance but if you were not from Skye, you could only book 2 weeks or less ahead. Now it looks like they're taking reservations for anyone at any time.

Mardee,
Regarding Edinbane Inn, we had B&B guests who ate there last week and were unimpressed with the choice. A smaller menu it seems than before and they said the quality was only ok. The Sunday music sessions have not returned to my knowledge. In contrast we continue to hear very good things about The Dunvegan fire restaurant, The Old School and Blas, also in Dunvegan. Edinbane Lodge is the one that gets stellar reviews from our guests who love the food and the whole fine dining experience. Chidakasha, a vegetarian and vegan restaurant in Glendale is also a firm favourite.

Edited to say that I've looked at recent reviews about Edinbane Inn and many people say it's just not the same anymore, either in terms of the food or the atmosphere and the lack of live music is mentioned. The owners apparently have no plans to reinstate the music which is a great shame. However, there is always live music in 1820 in Portree on a Sunday afternoon from a local group of teachers and youngsters who call themselves "The Sessioners". A couple of my piano pupils are also talented fiddle and accordion players and they are part of the group. It's totally free to go and listen.

Jacqui

Great to hear your Skye trip went so well and got full marks!

Just an add on to the Three Chimneys…we had dinner there a couple of weeks ago and my husband and I both felt that the food has gone downhill quite considerably. Food quality, presentation, quality of sauces/accompaniments were all hugely disappointing and not what I would rate as fine dining.We made this known at the time , with specific comments, as we were asked how each course was.At the end of the meal, our server ‘confided’ that there was a lot of bickering in the kitchen and issues with menus and food prep(not sure exactly what the latter meant) but that they would ‘get through it.’
Certainly, the menu we looked at online was suddenly changed on the day with two ceviche type courses suddenly replacing two desserts.That wouldn't have mattered too much if the courses had been of previous restaurant quality but they weren’t.
I’m currently in the midst of a complaint to the restaurant though it is being poorly handled - I haven't yet posted a review but will.

I first ate in The Three Chimneys when it first opened and was a much more casual place (about 35 years ago it must have been, at a guess) but was famous for its Steamed Marmalade Pudding! Gorgeous.

Scotlandmac. Your experience coincides exactly with that of our next door neighbours and our B&B guests who've eaten there recently. I must admit that I will not eat there any more. It went downhill with the previous chef, but since the takeover by the new owners and installation of the new chef it seems it's going from bad to worse. Many long standing staff have left and the waiting staff are all seasonal workers with no connection to the community. A sad tale and a real pity.

However, there is always live music in 1820 in Portree on a Sunday afternoon from a local group of teachers and youngsters who call themselves "The Sessioners". A couple of my piano pupils are also talented fiddle and accordion players and they are part of the group. It's totally free to go and listen.

That would be well worth a visit, Jacqui! And that's so cool that some of them are your pupils. Definitely a plan for my next trip there.