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3 Weeks Scotland Itinerary Suggestions Aug/Sept

After reading and exploring this forum, we have decided to leave England to another time and spend our entire 3 weeks in Scotland. There are so many places to visit and we do not want to skimp or rush from one place to the next. That being decided, we would like insights for our itinerary. It seems like over the span of 3 weeks (@20ish days) about 5-6 different bases would be doable. If we were to fly into Glasgow or Edinburgh and leave from either of these cities, how do you suggest we plan our route and time? Things we are interested in after reading through comments and links on this site are:
1. Time in Glasgow and/or Edinburgh when we arrive/depart.
2. Possible attendance at Highland Games (Edinburgh Tattoo, Dunkeld, Cowel, Pitolchry, Braemer-have been mentioned and fall within our time frame. Recommendations and do we stay in that town?).
3. Cladich Highland Cattle Farm/B&B (or other?). Would this be a base?
4. Scenic train ride (West Highland or Kyle line?)
5. Islands-Skye (stay in Plockton? Portree? Other?); Mull (stay in Tobermory? Oban?); Bute/Dunoon? I can see spending a bit of time in these areas and using ferry lines.
6. Inveraray?

We do plan on renting a car, however would rather not do all of our own driving. We enjoy hiking if the weather is decent, historic sites, castles, charming towns to explore.
Several people commented on my earlier post and gave some really good, detailed suggestions. Any additional suggestions now that we have more time to explore are greatly appreciated!

Posted by
1609 posts

Hi, losrichins,

Good choice of countries! I'm a little confused about your statement that you'd rather not do all of your own driving. What alternatives have you considered? There is just so much to see, and so many places to visit, that you can easily get overwhelmed with information.

If you are arriving in either Glasgow or Edinburgh, I'd recommend starting your tour in your arrival city, and spend the first two or three days there. Once you're acclimated and ready to get out on the road, you can pick up a car, either in town or back at the airport. I'd recommend picking your car up at the airport, as it will make the end of your journey a bit easier.

As far as Highland Gatherings, Cowal and Braemar are big ones, attendance wise. You may be better off with one of the smaller games, like Pitlochry or Birnam. You just need to figure out what Gathering will fit in to your itinerary. You don't want to end up going miles out of your way or doubling back to attend one of the events. With Braemar and Cowal, both are in fairly isolated locations, and accommodation will be scarce and at a premium. For instance, if you were to try to find accomodation for the weekend of this year's Braemar Gathering, the nearest lodging is in Banchory.

If you're planning to visit Skye, your best bet would be to stay on the island. Plockton is a bit too far away to make it a base for exploring Skye. If you're planning to go a bit farther up the west coast, Lochcarron might be a good base - you could use it as a base for visiting Torridon and Applecross.

If you're looking for a scenic train ride, I'd recommend taking the Kyle Line out of Inverness, and getting off at Plockton. It's one of the prettiest villages in Scotland. It makes for a great day trip, if you want to take a break from driving.

I hope that's enough to get you started. I'm sure that many others will be chipping in with suggestions. You need to start narrowing things down fairly soon. In addition to the information which you've garnered here, you should check out a couple of the guidebooks, like the RS book and the Rough Guide to Scotland.

Safe travels!

Mike (Auchterless)

Posted by
28993 posts

Based on my experience in 2019, you should look immediately for lodging in Portree and Tobermory; the demand exceeds the supply by a lot. I assume you will have options in Edinburgh, but if you're there in August, they will be costly.

Posted by
380 posts

Sounds like lovely trip! You mentioned the Tattoo which indicates you plan to visit in August- just be aware that Edinburgh in August is completely different from the rest of the year due to the festivals. The population of the city doubles (perhaps more than doubles now?) and accommodation gets incredibly scarce- even festival performers have problems finding places to stay now. The festival is fun and the Tattoo is a great spectacle to witness but just be prepared for how crowded it will be and book your accommodation and the Tattoo ASAP.

Mull is beautiful, and I personally also love visiting the smaller islands off Mull which you can easily visit with a local tour company- Iona (historic and holy island where monks lived) and Staffa (basalt columned caves and puffins). It's easy to get to all those places from Oban. If you're interested in visiting other islands, I really highly recommend Islay and Jura- some of the most beautiful scenery in Scotland (and the best whiskey, in my opinion). You can easily get to Islay from the ferry at Kennacraig and to Jura from Islay. Aran is also wonderful (it's called Scotland in miniature as it contains both highlights and lowlands) and is easily reached from Ardrossan which is a short drive from Glasgow (when the ferries are running- hopefully the new ferry has helped resolved some recent capacity issues). If you are planning to take a car on any of these ferries definitely book ahead.

Inveraray is also a great place to visit, as is all of Loch Fyne generally- definitely recommend the local seafood. Good luck with the planning!

Posted by
9296 posts

I love Mull, possibly more than Skye, and would recommend you stay in Tobermory as opposed to Oban. Tobermory is charming and there is a lot you can see and do there. I stayed 4 nights in one of the harbor B&Bs and parked in one of the free car lots on the harbor. It's lovely to be able to walk down through the shops and restaurants that line the harbor. Bring your camera as it's very photogenic. You can visit the Isle of Mull Cheese Shop (Sgriob-ruadh Farm), which is about a mile from the harbor. There are self-guided tours to meet the farm animals and learn about traditional cheese making. There is also a cafe and a farm shop.

Also, there is a short walk from the harbor car park along the wooded hillside to Aros Park with woodland trails, a lochan and really nice waterfalls. A walk from the other end of Main Street leads along a coastal path to the Rubha Nan Gall Lighthouse. There are amazing views out over the Sound of Mull. And another short walk up the hill towards Baliscate leads to the Baliscate Standing Stones. Nearby is the site of the Baliscate Chapel, the subject of a BBC archaeology dig.

You also might want to stop at Isle of Mull Pottery, which is just beautiful. They sell some in the shops along the harbor but the main shop is in the town up above Main St. (you will pass it if you go to Calgary).

The Tobermory Bakery is wonderful—definitely stop here for one of their delectable pastries, take-away sandwiches and coffee or tea. Their Millionaire's Shortbread is incredible! There is a shop at the end of the harbor that is farthest from the ferry terminal that sells handmade chocolate with a tea room, and along the way are some very nice gift shops - I bought half my souvenirs in Mull (and I'm picky about stuff like that). Lots of nice restaurants, too. There is also a catch-and-release aquarium that is interesting, too.

And don't miss Calgary Beach, which is about a 30+ minute drive—probably more like 40—from Tobermory. It's very narrow and the single track roads run through the mountains with some switchbacks, so you will need to go slow through much of it. It's well worth a visit to see the beautiful beach.

And of course, there is the Isle of Iona, the birthplace of Christianity in Scotland and filled with so much history. It makes for a wonderful day trip from Tobermory. You can drive to Fionnphort, then take the 10 minute ferry over to Iona, see the ruins and the history there, have some lunch, walk on the beach. It's an amazing day.

Can you tell how much I loved Mull? :-)

Posted by
52 posts

Wow-such wonderful suggestions! Thank you all. As far as doing our own driving-if it is recommended to rent a car for the entire trip we are totally up for that. We have found that sometimes we miss out on the scenery or get frustrated with parking and directions so having part of the travel by train, boat, bus has helped break it up a bit (perhaps because we have been in countries where we are unfamiliar with the language). That being said, if I can be convinced that renting a car for our trip is the best way to get around, I am ok with it. Question-would we be in a place not using a car for a few days and would it be best to turn it in and rent again? Or would you suggest we keep the car until we return to our departure point (would it be best to leave from Glasgow if we arrive in Edinburgh and spend a few days in both or better to day trip)? And…How quickly does one get used to driving on the opposite side?
I understand that we need to start securing our accommodations ASAP-thank you for that tip. Where would we base ourselves for Islay, Jura, Aran?
With the bakery, pottery shop, beautiful walks. Etc I am sold on Mull!

Posted by
380 posts

Personally, I would rent a car for the whole trip outside of Edinburgh/Glasgow, especially if you want to see the islands, where it's easiest to get around by car (you could still have a boat experience taking the car on the ferry!). Even where there are bus services they tend to be less frequent and require a lot of advanced planning.

For Islay, Jura, and Arran, you would need to stay overnight on each. You can hop around between them- what I have done previously is drive to Ardrossan (not far from Glasgow), get the ferry to Brodick on Arran, spend time on Arran, then you can get a different ferry from the north coast (Lochranza) to the Mull of Kintyre (Claonaig), spend some time there (a beautiful peninsula with more great whiskey), then get the ferry onwards from Kennacraig, on the other side of the Mull of Kintyre peninsula, to Port Ellen on Islay. Once on Islay there's another short ferry back and forth from Port Askaig in the north to Feolin on Jura. It requires some advanced planning with the ferry times and bookings, but in my opinion is totally worth it. Once you get from Islay back to the Mull of Kintyre it's a pretty straightforward drive up to Oban where you can get the ferry to Mull, or you could easily drive to Inveraray. All those places should (I think) be less crowded than Skye. Good luck!

Posted by
1609 posts

Hi again, losrichins,

As far as where to base yourselves on Islay, I'd recommend either Eilidh's Guest House or the Trout Fly in Port Ellen. Both are owned by the same person. Eilidh's is right on the beach front, and a two minute drive from the ferry terminal. The Trout Fly is just around the corner. Eilidh's is twin beds only. Port Ellen would be your best bet for convenient location to the ferry, Bowmore has a slightly larger choice of restaurants and lodging.

On Jura, just about the only option is the Jura Hotel in Craighouse. It's apparently under new management, and has received mixed reviews in 2024. However, it's in a beautiful location. Last year was our first time on Jura, and we truly enjoyed it. The roads are in very good condition. If you're going to Jura, you can take the car ferry from Port Askaig on Islay, as Cat advised, or the passenger ferry from Tayvallich, which takes you directly to Craighouse. If you choose the latter option, your only method of transportation once you arrive on Jura, if you want to explore outside of Craighouse, is shanks' mare or bicycle rental.

As far as Arran goes, our favorite lodging in Brodick closed a few years ago. However, there is plenty of availability in Brodick, Lamlash, and Whiting Bay, if you reserve well ahead of time.

I hope that that gives you a little more information.

Best wishes,

Mike (Auchterless)

Posted by
9478 posts

Once on Islay there's another short ferry back and forth from Port Askaig in the north to Feolin on Jura. It requires some advanced planning with the ferry times and bookings, but in my opinion is totally worth it.

That is not correct. That ferry is an hourly ferry (half hourly in the peaks) and is a non-bookable turn up and go service. The only sailings which need bookings are the 6am and 9pm- very quiet times, and both can't happen on the same day to allow for crew rest hours.

If you're going to Jura, you can take the car ferry from Port Askaig on Islay, as Cat advised, or the passenger ferry from Tayvallich,which takes you directly to Craighouse. If you choose the latter option, your only method of transportation once you arrive on Jura, if you want to explore outside of Craighouse, is shanks' mare or bicycle rental.

That is also not correct. While it is true that there is very little bus service north of Craighouse there is a good service south to Feolin- well used by visitors and walkers. It stops anywhere on request. In fact I have been on it when it has been almost full from Feolin, but I've been the last person off at Craighouse. Likewise on the way to Feolin.
The fast passenger ferry from Tayvallich has a connecting bus (from Lochgilphead) in both directions. In turn that connects with a long distance bus from Glasgow. In the days of mobile phones bus and boat crews talk with each other if there is late running. The island community are actively promoting the foot ferry as a green, responsible and easy way to visit the island, avoiding the long diversion via Islay.
I've done that twice- once in each direction.

And on Arran there is a good bus service (two hourly round the island, more frequently on certain more heavily used sections). It will still connect for this summer with sailings from Ardrossan, but not those from Troon. Again real visitors use the buses all the time. Stagecoach may or may not be able to change their timings to cater for the Troon sailings.
Those driving off probably don't see how many people (very many visitors) connect straight off the ferry onto the bus.
Although there will be much enhanced car capacity this summer using the bus gives you freedom from having to book car capacity on specific sailings, being able to walk on as foot pax.
There is also a connecting bus at Claonaig for the Islay ferry at Kennacraig, out of the Lochranza ferry, so again avoiding capacity and booking issues with a car.

Posted by
380 posts

Apologies for not being clearer- my comment about advanced bookings and planning was related to the whole route around the islands in general- it is true that both the ferry from Islay to Jura and the ferry from Arran to Kintyre are turn up and go.

Posted by
1609 posts

Hi, Stuart,

As you pointed out, there is not much bus service north of Craighouse on Jura. Even the earliest ferry out of Tayvallich wouldn't get to Craighouse in time to catch the early bus. So the first bus heading north that anyone coming off of the Tayvallich ferry would be able to catch would be the 15:40 (based on the summer schedule), which goes north to Inverlussa, then turns right around and heads back to Craighouse. The return to Craighouse would not be in time to catch the ferry.

So any daytrippers wanting to explore Jura north of Craighouse would have to rely on bicycle rental from Craighouse or, once again, shanks' mare. They would have to watch their time very carefully in order to not miss the last ferry.

Having said that, however, Jura is just too beautiful to see as a Tayvallich daytripper. For anyone coming over from Tayvallich, the best idea would be to take the first ferry out, stay overnight in Craighouse, then take the first bus heading north the following day, explore at leisure, and take the last bus back. Obviously, that would necessitate a second overnight stay. This also takes some planning, as the ferry does not operate on certain days. I think, now that you've put the idea in my head, that I'd like to do that next year! It would save a lot of time heading south to Kennacraig and driving across Islay.

I hope that you are feeling better and recovering well!

Best wishes,

Mike (Auchterless)

Posted by
9478 posts

The bus times on Jura haven't really changed in 20 years or more, just the operator when the island guy retired and Garelochhead Minicoaches got the contract.
The only real change at that time was the loss of the weekly (Thursday from memory) through evening bus to Bowmore on Islay for an evening out for Islanders.
One intriguing thing is that CalMac have said that the new ferries are to serve Islay and Jura. Do they intend to restart the old McBraynes service direct to Myra from the mainland?- then from the old West Loch Tarbert terminal. Some thought.
Without derailing the OP's thread I am slowly and carefully walking again now and not as totally exhausted as I was.

Posted by
66 posts

Lots of good suggestions above!

Coming back to your original idea of Mull and Skye…you can certainly do both with some justice, factored in to the more extensive time you now have.

Highland Games are on all over the place so pick one that best suits your itinerary.For example, the Glenfinnan Highland Gathering is a good one to or from Skye potentially.There are the games in Portree too, early August.

If hiking is a priority - and it is such a great way to really explore and get a sense of a place - then don’t omit Skye.It will be busy in August (as will Arran, a very popular holiday and day trip destination for those of us who live in the Central Belt) so get to the hot spots early.That said, there are so many walks on the island amidst stunning scenery that are NOT so much on the tourist radar - part way out to Rubh and Dunan perhaps at Glen Brittle, walking in the opposite direction to most folk at the Quiraing with the amazing and straightforward Trotternish ridge to yourselves.Out to Rubh Hunish perhaps or at least to the shelter area for stunning views to `Harris.
The popular places are so for a reason, they are jaw dropping re scenery.I’d also recommend the Loch Coruisk boat trip from Elgol, allowing an easy walk into a loch of savage beauty in the company of less than 10 or so others.

Mull is wonderful, not with so much of the jaw dropping scenery but possibly more beautiful, a little softer.It draws me back again and again.There is an argument for basing in or around `charming Tobermory as well as one night or so down around Fionnphort/the Ross of Mull as it’s a fair distance between the two areas.Perfectly do-able in terms of the most direct driving route between them..maybe 1hr 45 each way.

One of my favourite cafes on Mull is Glengorm Cafe, excellent home baking and lunches and a delightful walk to the coast below the castle after that, to see the remains of an ancient Dun or fort.On a sunny day, the area is a little slice of paradise.

Calgary Bay, Knockvologan beach plus Iona’s stunning North End beaches are where Mull scores over Skye - though Skye does have the Coral Beaches and the even lovelier and less well known Camus Darach beach with a superb walk out to the lighthouse at Point of Sleat.

Mull and Skye punch well above their weight re quality eating out places.

Posted by
52 posts

Great info shared here! Thank you all so much! I am gathering ideas, dates, places (loooove bakeries!) for food/drink (my husband is a dark beer lover). I've made a couple of reservations so far with the flexibility of changing dates once we get the itinerary basics nailed down.
I would like to ask about another detail: I originally thought we would fly to Edinburgh and head counter clockwise to Fife villages, then go north to Highlands and the isles on the west, then back to Glascow and Edinburgh. I am now wondering if going clockwise would make more sense based on the following: We will likely be arriving at the end of the Tatoo in Edinburgh (@ Aug 19, though this date could be pushed a bit later). I am thinking about leaving Edinburgh straight from the airport to avoid the crowds and visit at the end of our trip, however don't want to drive until we have had a bit of rest. Would it be reasonable to take a train to somewhere outside of Glascow for a couple of days, then rent a car (car rental locations seem to be limited the other direction) to continue our trip? We would keep the car, travel to Isles on west, Highlands, Fife and return in Edinburgh prior to our departure. If this makes sense, where would be a good base for our first couple of days? I have heard Glascow can be a base for some of the area, but would like to see if anyone has other suggestions as we are considering one of the islands in the Arran/Bute/Islay area (not sure what this is called) a base for a few days. Looking forward to hearing from you all!

Posted by
9478 posts

I wouldn't class Islay in with Arran etc.

The ABC Islands (Arran, Bute and Cumbrae) are the Clyde Islands.

Islay I would call part of the Southern Hebrides, along with Jura, Gigha, Colonsay and the Slate Islands.

If you go to Arran for a couple of days you could take the easy way on (via train to Ardrossan) then come off to Troon.

Then the shuttle bus port to the station and train one stop (4 minute ride) to Prestwick Airport then rent a car from there. The station is linked to the airport by a bridge (so is very, very handy) and in former times was a major airport for transatlantic flights. Now it is mainly a low cost carriers airport for flights to Europe.
From Prestwick you are straight out onto the A77/M77 then the M8 for the Erskine Bridge and then north. The A77 is why Troon is a shorter drive from Glasgow than Ardrossan is.

If you went to Bute (which would be my first choice- more on island buses, more frequent ferries, a compact island to explore) it would be train back from Wemyss Bay to Paisley for bus to Glasgow Airport to rent the car. Or the more frequent bus from Wemyss Bay to Braehead Shopping Centre, change for Bus to Glasgow Airport).

Also Bute is just a quick nip up the coast on the bus for the ferries to Dunoon (Cowal). From Dunoon you could always come back to Gourock for trains to Paisley for GLA airport for car rental.

Posted by
52 posts

Getting a rough plan and would like to hear your thoughts. I am about a week too long, so need to cut down but not sure where! I also have not been able to add in Ft. William and train to Mallaig, how to get to Jura then Bute, is Balmaha reasonable to see Loch Lomond, does anyone know about Duirinish (looked like a quaint village close to Plockton), does Aviemore/Kingussie make sense and is it reasonable to think we can stop in Pitlochry for the day for Highland games and then travel to Crail? Look forward to your ideas!

Day 1-land Edinburgh, take train to Glascow
2-Glascow explore
3-Glascow explore
4-Flight to Islay
5-Islay explore
6-Jura?
7-Bute
8-Bute
9-Bute to Glascow to get car. Drive to Balmaha for night.
10-Drive to Tobermory
11-Tobermory-explore Mull and isles
12-Tobermory-explore Mull and isles
13-Tobermory-explore Mull and isles
14-Tobermory-explore Mull and isles
15-Tobermory-drive to Mallaig, ferry to Portree
16-Portree
17-Portree
18-Portee-drive to Duirinish
19-Duirinish-explore Plockton
20-drive to Aviemore or Kingussie
21-Aviemore or Kingussie
22-Drive to Pitlochry for daystop, then to Crail
23-Crail and Fife Villages
24-Crail and Fife Villages
25-Crail and Fife Villages
26-Edinburgh
27-Edinburgh
28-fly out of Edinburgh

Posted by
1959 posts

I know this isn't going to help you eliminate any places, but I would add a 4th night to Portree. The Isle of Skye is gorgeous, and along with Glencoe, it was our favorite place in Scotland.

We also followed the roadtrip I have linked below. It was a perfect way to see Skye, to make sure we saw all the beautiful places, and in a very orderly route.

https://www.ontheluce.com/isle-of-skye-itinerary/

Posted by
9296 posts

Mull and Skye punch well above their weight re quality eating out places.

I agree. I still remember the incredible meal I had at Galleon Bistro in Tobermory. Definitely worth stopping at. I also stopped at Glengorm Cafe that @scotlandmac mentioned and concur with the recommendation. The food and tea were quite good and it was in a very lovely setting. I walked around the gardens and then down to the sea. It was a perfect afternoon.

And I had an exquisite meal at Fraser and the Bracken Hide just outside of Portree on Skye, which someone had recommended here. They had just opened when I was there. It’s a hotel with guest pods and a restaurant and bar. The building is gorgeous and it’s in a beautiful setting. The food was wonderful! I had grilled salmon that melted in my mouth and a berry mousse that will live forever in my taste buds.

By the way, your itinerary looks wonderful. I'm very jealous and think you will have an incredible trip.

Posted by
9296 posts

In terms of a car rental, I've used Arnold Clark on my last two trips to the UK. Earlier this year in England, I was there for almost 6 weeks and rented directly with Arnold Clark. In 2023 when I was in Scotland for 3 weeks, I rented from them through their broker, Celtic Legend for my trip to Scotland. Both rental experiences went very well. Arnold Clark is a pleasure to deal with. Their agents explain everything to you and make sure that you understand the fine print. They are good about upgrading sometimes, and very courteous and helpful. I will always use them in the UK for future rentals.

https://www.arnoldclarkrental.com/
https://www.celticlegend.co.uk/car-rental/

In terms of driving itself, driving on the left is fairly easy. After the first couple of minutes, you'll get the hang of it. Just remember when you first start up the car to think to yourself, "Go left." That's the time when you forget. Some folks put little notes on the dash. The first time, I messed up leaving the parking lot but after that I was fine (and so was the other driver who politely waited for me to come to my senses and get in the correct lane).

The hardest part of driving involves the single-track roads. Not only are the roads narrow, but there is no shoulder, so you have to be careful not to veer too quickly to the right or left, as you can ruin a tire by going off the road. Keep in mind there are plenty of passing places, and you'll get the etiquette down pretty quickly. Here's one video that is helpful: Driving on Single Track Roads

On Skye, some of the roads have heavy potholes you need to watch out for. There are some good roads there, though. For example, the road from Armadale to Portree is a 2 lane well-kept road. Mull's roads were generally pretty decent but mostly single-track. In other places, they get a lot easier. I had no problems driving on Harris and Lewis, and along the coastal road from Inverness to Cruden Bay and farther south.

Posted by
9478 posts

As regards Jura-
Two answers-
a. You can get a bus from anywhere on Islay down to Port Askaig for the wee ferry over, and the same on the return, but (the second answer) you can rent a car locally at Islay Airport for your time on Islay/Jura which is probably more efficient. It is a locally based company, not one of the big companies.
b. Even if you had taken a car over from Glasgow to Islay getting to Bute is a three ferry combination from Islay- ferry to Kennacraig, drive to Tarbert (Loch Fyne), ferry to Portavadie (Cowal), drive to Colintraive, ferry to Rhubadoch (Bute), drive to hotel. That can be replicated by bus connections. It is an absolutely wonderful day's trip, but is a full day- driving or bus. It is a shame to lose it, but sometimes needs must.
I am tempted to say that the easier much faster way is the morning flight back to Glasgow, bus to Paisley, train to Wemyss Bay, ferry over to Bute.
Very reluctantly, as you are running long, maybe eliminate Bute.
Yes I think Balmaha is a great one night stop for Loch Lomond. However, as you are running long, I suggest that you drive direct from Glasgow to Oban with a stop at either Luss or Tarbet (I strongly favour Tarbet of the two) for a short cruise. Then book the last ferry over from Oban to Mull.
In my view you can take a day off Mull with little deleterious effect.
Pitlochry to Crail is a two hour drive, so that works.
I also think you could take a day off Crail as you are long. So that is, I think, 5 days shaved off the itinerary.

There are ways to radically revise the early part of the itinerary.
That is- fly to Islay, local car rental, then the twice weekly ferry to Oban, change for Mull, local car hire on Mull (it is possible), bus Oban to Fort William (or even bus from Kilchoan (ex the Tobermory ferry), the afternoon steam train to Mallaig, late ferry to Armadale (Skye), local car rental on Skye (off rented at Kyle of Lochalsh), train to Inverness, then car rental one way from Inverness for the rest of your itinerary.
That unfortunately cuts out Loch Lomond and Bute.
Because I drive manual that wouldn't be an issue. However if you drive automatic that could be an issue with the island companies who probably have a predominantly stick shift stock.

Duirinish doesn't have much choice of places to stay, but it and Plockton are next door to each other. So in practical terms spending an hour or two in Duirinish then lodging in Plockton may well make more sense. Depends what you can find. Give me a choice between staying in Aviemore or Kingussie (or Newtonmore). Personally I'm choosing Kingussie/Newtonmore every time, but others will validly vary.
You could also look at that overnight stop being in Blair Atholl.
Bute would also be a very easy day trip on one of your Glasgow days to keep that in the overall itinerary. As would Loch Lomond. If I had to choose either or as a day trip I would choose Bute, personally.

Posted by
1609 posts

Hi, losrichins,

Looking at your most recent post, it looks to me as though your life (lives?) would be a whole lot easier if you just hired a car for the entire holiday. That would eliminate having to worry about flight/train/bus schedules, and would allow you to travel wherever and whenever you want (ferry schedules permitting!).

The only part of your holiday which would would involve more travel time would be travelling from Glasgow to Islay. It's a bit of a drive to Kennacraig for the ferry, but generally Scotland is better seen from the road than from the air. This would also mean that you would also have a car that you've gotten used to by the time you get to Islay. It would also make getting over to Port Askaig for the ferry to Jura a lot easier, as well.

If you do decide to include Bute on your itinerary (and I definitely would!), ferries from Port Ellen to Kennacraig, Tarbert to Portavadie, and Colintraive to Rhubodach would put you on Bute by mid afternoon, with enough time to visit Mount Stuart. Don't miss the Kyles of Bute overlook at Tighnabruaich.

On day nine, unless you have your heart set on visiting Loch Lomond from Balmaha, you could cut off a long drive (since you'll still have your car), by taking the ferry (no reservation required) back from Rhubodach to Colintraive, taking the A886 to the top of Loch Fyne, then the A83/A819/A85 to Oban, for your ferry to Craignure and the Isle of Mull. If you really wanted to see Loch Lomond, you could turn right instead of left on the A83, and visit the loch at Tarbet, as isn31c recommended. If you do that, you could then double back on the A83 as above.

On day 15, you could then take the ferry from Tobermory to Kilchoan, as isn31c recommended, then drive to Lochailort for the A830 leading in to Mallaig. From there, it's the ferry to Armadale, and about a 90 minute drive to Portree.

After your time on Skye, as isn31c pointed out, there's not a whole lot to see in Duirinish, except possibly for the Highland cows wandering about the street (drive slowly!). Plockton is one of the gems of the Highlands. Lodging reservations, if you decide to stay there, are really a necessity. A couple of the good B&Bs have closed either due to retirement or new government regulations.

Plockton to Aviemore/Kingussie/Newtonmore is a little over four hours drive. Probably closer to five, as you have to negotiate Inverness. It's very scenic for the most part, except for the A9. Watch your speed there!

Okay, I hope that has given you more food for thought! As I said at the beginning of this screed, you'd be better off having a car for your entire holiday. It will be easier, luggage wise - you can live out of your car boot as opposed to having to carry it from pillar to post. Please be sure to make reservations for the ferries, except for Tarbert to Portavadie and Colintraive to Rhubodach, which are show up and go.

I think that if you take all of the advice which you've been given, especially from Mardee and Stuart (isn31c), you are going to have a wonderful holiday. But the final decision on where you want to go, and what you want to see, is up to you!

Very best wishes,

Mike (Auchterless)

Posted by
52 posts

Is this thread getting too long...should I start another topic?

I think we will save Bute and Loch Lomond for another trip or daytrip from Glasgow. I am leaning towards having a car (as has been suggested a couple of times) for the majority of the trip.
I have just a few more questions (for now):
1. If we stay on Islay would Jura be a reasonable day trip? Or, could we do Jura on our way to Oban?

  1. "On day 15, you could then take the ferry from Tobermory to Kilchoan, as isn31c recommended, then drive to Lochailort for the A830 leading in to Mallaig. From there, it's the ferry to Armadale, and about a 90 minute drive to Portree." This along with several other days seem like 4-5hr driving...will we be spending more time in the car than enjoying the country?
  2. Should we consider making Plockton a daytrip on our way to Newtonmore?
  3. Any suggestions on how to get one of the incredible Scotland train rides?

The details you have provided for driving/ferries/accommodations/dining are extremely helpful. I so appreciate the personal experiences you all are sharing.

Posted by
9478 posts

I am just on my way to bed now.

But yes Jura is a day trip from Islay. That is totally the way to fit it in.

If you are now going to Oban via Kennacraig as opposed to via Colonsay then I would encourage you to break that journey either or both at Tarbert and Ardrishaig for the Crinan canal, and then later at Kilmartin G!en. At Tarbert follow the road along the harbour past the ferry terminal to the old steamer pier. For views that short diversion is a real favourite of mine.
If it was me doing that drive in high summer with long hours I would as a finale to the day divert to the bridge over the Atlantic and on to Ellenabeich for the views out to Easda!e and the other Slate Islands. Very familiar ground to me but always a superlative side trip.
But if you are going forward to Tobermory that evening you need to balance your timings with the last ferry to Craignure. You may need to make choices from the above smorgasbord.

On Day 15 break the journey with either the afternoon wildlife cruise from Mallaig or the mailboat to Inverie, then take a late afternoon ferry over to Armada!e. You have more than enough daylight to then reach Portree. And take the first boat out of Tobermory that morning.

On the way to Mallaig you should also have time for a stop at the wonderful beaches at Morar.

As you are now driving you now need to get ferry passages booked with Ca!mac. You also now need to get lodgings booked.

As regards train journeys my curated plan gave you the Mallaig line train journey. As you are now driving that is no longer practical. I've tried really hard to blend everything you asked for, to gain you a day on Islay with the wonderful scenic flight in, to see the area from a different perspective but decisions have now been made, rightly or wrongly.
Likewise fitting in the Kyle line is now much harder. I'm going to be really creative on that score. Drive off Skye, see Duirinish, park up there at the wee station, take the train at just before 2pm to Dingwall, look around the town, have dinner at the Mallard pub on the station platform, then the 6.30pm train back, arriving at 8.20pm, then the very short drive round to Plockton.
Depending on your exact timings you could start that journey at Plockton rather than Duirinish.

Next morning look around Plockton, leave at lunchtime for Aviemore etc., with a suggested mid afternoon break very marginally off route in Strathpeffer, either at the village square or the beautifully restored old station.

As regards the West Highland line, on one of your Glasgow Days take the 8am train to Fort William over Rannoch Moor. Then a mid afternoon bus back to Glasgow through G!encoe. Very different scenery.
EDITED- If you take the 1310 bus back from Fort William that arrives at Tarbet (Loch Lomond) at 1513- take the last circular cruise at 1600, back at 1700. Then the bus to Glasgow at 1713, 1753 or 1803 (many of these are summer extra buses so not on the currently available timetables- that is the value of paper timetables). So items achieved efficiently in one day.

On the way to Islay you will be on the 1300 ferry which arrives at Port Askaig at 1500. As you have lost a day in travelling anyway I am thinking you could do your Loch Lomond visit on the way there from Luss, Tarbet or Balmaha.
Balmaha is one hour from GLA airport, then 2 hrs 45 to Kennacraig, and book the last ferry over- the 1800 to Port Ellen (Port Askaig on Monday or Saturday). Another efficient way to get Loch Lomond in, and make better use of the travelling day.

Posted by
1609 posts

Hi once again, losrichins,

You have certainly deviated far from your initial post!

To answer a couple of your questions, Jura is a reasonable day trip from Islay, but definitely not on your way to Oban! If you look at a map of Scotland, you'll see why. As you'll have a car, the only way to get back to the mainland is to drive all the way back to Port Ellen on Islay, for your ferry ride to Kennacraig; or take the twice weekly ferry from Port Askaig to Oban. The only other ways to return to the mainland from Jura are the "Jura Bus", a fast ferry from Craighouse to Tayvallich (passengers only - no cars!), or the four times daily seaplane flight from Craighouse to Cameron House on Loch Lomond. Those flights are weather permitting, on certain days only, and not cheap!

Sorry to hear that you're skipping Bute, but you have to cut out days if you're only planning to spend 20ish days in Scotland. However, using the ferries judiciously, as advised above, you can easily island hop from Islay to Mull to Skye. As you are a bit limited for time, and you still want to spend some time visiting the East Neuk of Fife, you may have to eliminate Islay, which is the farthest away of your island destinations.

If you're travelling from Tobermory to Portree by car, the route you were given is the shortest route. Certainly it's a lot of driving, but you are going to be going through some magnificent scenery, and at least with a car, you can stop any time you want to enjoy the views. You can also stop to eat any time you want. Going the same route by public transportation would take the better part of a day, by bus, ferry, bus, train, ferry, and bus.

It's certainly feasible to visit Duirinish and Plockton on your way to Newtonmore. You'd need to add at least two hours on to your estimated driving time for that day, and that would give you the option of driving to Inverness by way of Achnasheen as opposed to Invermoriston.

You should find a large scale map of Scotland to get a better idea of the distances between these places which you want to visit. Once you get up in to the Highlands and Islands, a good rule of thumb is that it will take one hour to go 40 miles, and even that may be a bit unrealistic.

You really need to start finalizing your plans soon. Accommodation in the more remote places is limited, and books up well in advance. We here can only make recommendations based on our experiences and knowledge - the final decision is up to you.

Best wishes once again!

Mike (Auchterless)

Posted by
9478 posts

... another thought. If you are staying in Glasgow at a place with parking, then the West Highland Line/Loch Lomond cruise day suggested above could end at Glasgow Airport at 1854 as the 1803 bus from Tarbet calls there. Enterprise at the airport are open until
2300. So pick up the car and get an early 6am start next day to Kennacraig for the 10am ferry to Port Ellen.
The 0610 bus from Glasgow connects with that ferry so you certainly can driving.

That puts you just 3 hours behind the flight.

A further edit- I have actually found a way for you to do the Mallaig to Fort William railway line, if you still want to. It took a fair bit of head scratching- take the first ferry from Tobermory to Kilchoan, arriving at 0755. Then drive to Arisaig- AA route planner tells me 93 minutes for the 50 mile drive. By now you will be confident on single track roads. Then take the 1027 diesel train to Fort William (which passes the steam at Glenfinnan station on the opposite platform), arrive FW 1134, depart 1218, arrive Arisaig 1323. The driver picks up the car, the non driver stays on the train to Mallaig.
If you were running really very late you could instead pick up the train at Lochailort.
When you get back to Mallaig the steam train will be sat there on the platform.

Posted by
9296 posts

Is this thread getting too long...should I start another topic?

Ha ha, losrichins! My threads have a tendency to do that, too! Your thread can go on forever, so no worries about that, but sometimes it is a little easier to start fresh with a new thread, giving your most recent itinerary and then ask some new questions. It's a bit easier to keep everything on track and organized.

But it's totally up to you!