I am hoping to use this incredibly helpful Rick Steve's forum to sanity check my upcoming trip to the Scottish Highlands. My husband and I are visiting our daughter mid-October while she is studying abroad at the University of Edinburgh for the fall semester. We are staying our first 2 and last 1 night in Edinburgh, but have from Friday morning 11 Oct through Sunday evening 13 Oct to rent a car and explore. For sure I want to spend some time walking around Glencoe valley, but otherwise, our goal is to get out into the Highlands, see the natural beauty and some of the nice villages. We know we need to cover some ground to get from Edinburgh to Glencoe, but we also want to see sights along the way and stay in cute towns and eat good food, etc. I have used Google maps for drive times and this itinerary seems reasonable, but when I look at the comments in the Forum, many of you have given drive times far longer than what Google maps shows.
Friday AM - pick up car at Edinburgh airport. Stop in the town of Stirling for a late breakfast/early lunch, visit Stirling Castle and maybe Doune castle. Drive straight to Oban for the evening including dinner. (Google maps says this is about 3 hours of drive time total obviously excluding stops)
Saturday - Breakfast in Oban then drive to Glencoe - go through Glencoe valley for casual hiking and enjoying nature. Lunch either in Glencoe or along the way to our next stop... Pitlochry. Maybe go to Blair castle and gardens just before arriving in Pitlochry. Spend the evening and the next morning in Pitlochry.
Sunday: Morning in Pitlochry (not sure what's open on a Sunday), maybe visit the distillery. Drive back down toward Edinburgh and maybe stop in Dunkeld and/or Culross on the way.
Does this seem like a reasonable amount of travel and stops for 2 nights (3 full days) and am I missing something really obvious that is a must see? We decided to skip Inverness and Glasgow as my daughter can visit those cities by train another time and we don't have time to ferry to islands.
Thanks for any insights!
Susan
There's really no reason to go to Oban if you're not going to have time to take an excursion to the islands. I would sleep in Glencoe or vicinity on Friday night. That'll give you much more time for all you have planned on Saturday.
Otherwise, it's more driving than I'd want to do in a weekend, and I don't really trust Google maps' drive time estimates, but if you think that's what you want to do, then by all means go for it.
There are some awesome hikes around Pitlochry, and also around Dunkeld and Birnam. Check the Walk Highlands site (https://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/).
For Route planning you are better off using a domestic route planner like the AA (similar to your AAA)- https://www.theaa.com/route-planner
Your daughter can easily get to Oban by train from Edinburgh- so maybe stay in Glencoe itself- or Ballachulish or Kinlochleven.
The obvious en route places like Tyndrum, Crianlarich and Bridge of Orchy can not be reasonably described as cute- functional and useful places, but not cute.
Pitlochry is a great town, but I am not sure I would call it exactly cute (and again daughter can get there by train). I might think of somewhere like Aberfeldy instead getting there from Blair Atholl by way of Loch Tummel. Stay in Aberfeldy and the Scottish Crannog Centre would be an easy visit on the Sunday morning- which daughter would struggle to get to under her own steam.
Thank you to both of you who responded to my query. Based on the feedback from Lane and isn31c, I will go straight to the Glencoe area and skip Oban. I spent quite a bit of time today finding lodging that is available mid October for 1 night and does not have remarkably and consistently bad reviews. I am deciding between Creag Mhor Lodge and Isles of Glencoe Lodge. Neither are perfect but I am weighing saving the extra 1 hour plus for more lodging options in Oban vs. waking Saturday morning where we want to explore for the day.
And thanks also to iscn31c who suggested Aberfeldy over Pitlochry. I am torn because both seem really nice so I am checking them both out and will at least visit one once I decide to stay in the other.
And thanks to you both for the walk highlands and the AA route finder. Great to know! Rick Steves forum is such a treasure.
Advice is usually to add 25% to google driving times. Also don’t forget to factor in time to find a car park and then walk to where it is you want to visit (thinking Stirling Castle or Doune Castle) and then back to the car. This can easily add an extra 30 minutes for each stop.
When planning remember to allow plenty of time for you attraction . Stirling Castle - this is big with a lot to see, so you need to allow at least two hours to do it justice. Doune castle is going to be about 45-60 minutes.
I’m a bit twitchy about ‘casual hiking’ in Glencoe. Is this just a gentle walk around the village/visitor centre? Hiking in Glencoe itself does tend to be a bit more serious than this requiring boots, full waterproofs, map etc. In October it may be cold and wet and ground may also be muddy ...
Blair Castle - again there is a lot to see with 30 rooms and they are sumptuous. Depending on how quickly you move through them, and talk to room guides, you need to allow at least an hour here and maybe even longer. Remember last entry is 3.45pm.
Have you fcome across the Undiscovered Scotland website? If not it is definitely worth looking at. It covers places not mentioned in the usual guide books and has lots of ideas of places to visit and what to do once there. Start with the relevant map page and click on the links for text pages with pictures and information. I use this to plan all my visits to Scotland.
Advice is usually to add 25% to google driving times.
I agree. I always added more time to the Google estimates, as it can't take into account the amount of times you will be pulling over into a passing place, and the fact that you will be going slower than the speed limit.
Just make sure you know the etiquette of driving on the single-track roads. Always pull over into the passing place on your left. If the passing place is on your right and you get there first, just stop in the road and the oncoming car will pull over. Pull over if cars start piling up behind you and let them pass. There are many videos on YouTube that have info on driving in Scotland, and I would encourage you to watch at least one of them.
Have you thought about picking up the car on Thursday evening instead of Friday morning? It will give you more time to explore. It sometimes takes a long time to sort out hire cars, especially at airports. I know you’d probably have to pay to park it somewhere overnight but it would give you a real head start on the Friday.
I would suggest staying just outside of Glencoe at Craiglinnhe House in Ballachulish. Lawrence and Katrine are wonderful hosts and their B&B is right on the Loch. If you book there make sure you follow their instructions how to locate their B&B. Google Maps will lead your to the wrong location.
https://www.craiglinnhe.co.uk/
We also enjoyed eating in Ballachulish at the Laroch. We actually had two very good meals. Lawrence at the B&B will be happy to book you reservations in advance if you ask him.
A wonderful hike (if you have time) is the Devils Staircase. It has wonderful views both on the trail and up at the top of the ridge.
Don
I am so grateful for the many thoughtful and helpful replies. I simply love the Rick Steves' community!
I am still honing in my activities within each day using the great resources and tips provided, but I have now booked my lodging because I am only 2 weeks out from my trip. Like many other top spots, the Craiglinnhe House was fully booked. I just booked us for our first Highlands night at the Creag Mhor Lodge just outside Glen Coe. It's about a 4 mile drive back into the village. I will try to book dinner at Laroch.
I decided after staying so remotely on Friday night, we could use a little tourist shops and pubs so chose to stay in Pitlochry at a B&B called Westlands Of Pitlochry. I looked with interest at Aberfeldy and it looks lovely. I may switch out visiting Aberfeldy on the way back to Edinburgh instead of Culross depending on what time we hit the road on Sunday.
In both cases we booked a larger room and can stay in the same room with our daughter for a small up charge which will save at least £200 a night. I will next look for a Saturday night dinner spot in Pitlochry.
Based on the great feedback I received, I plan to map out realistic times and may likely drop Doune castle so we can linger and not be stressed at Stirling castle and to have time for lunch in Stirling. I also plan to map out a couple of reasonably easy hikes in Glen Coe to enjoy the landscape but being realistic on times. Devils Staircase looks like a good match if it's not slippery/rainy.
Such great suggestions and resource links. Thanks to you all who took the time to share your wisdom.
Creag Mhor should be an interesting place to stay- only about a mile into the village of Ballachulish. Quite an interesting history- built in 1890 as a private residence for the wife of the Episcopalian Bishop of Argyll and the Isles, then it's links to the Welsh narrow gauge railways and then 60 or so years as a CHA (Countryside Holidays Association) House.
That Bishop (Alexander Haldane, or any of his other 3 surnames is interesting in his own right. His first appointment was North Ballachulish, and his wife Anna Elizabeth Chinnery is buried there).
The Welsh link cannot be as coincidental as it looks given that the main industry of Ballachulish before tourism was slate quarrying.
If I was choosing somewhere to stay in the area that history would be a very good reason to stay there if the price was right- but then as a Brit maybe that history is more meaningful to me. But it is also 4.5* on Trip Advisor if that is important.
Westlands of Pitlochry is 5* on TA, it's a nice position set back a bit from the main road, and just at the north end of town, but a very easy walk to all the facilities.
Looks like 2 good choices.
We had a very nice dinner at Victorias in Pitlochry. Reservations recommended.