18 day Scotland Itinerary by train and bus

Hi, lurag.trip, your itinerary looks very well thought out. You've obviously done your research, and I think it looks good.

One thing—have you confirmed that you can leave your luggage at the Craignure Ferry Terminal? If I recall, it's pretty small and I would be surprised if they had left luggage storage there.

But regardless, Mull is wonderful; it was one of my favorite islands, and the drive to Iona is lovely. You are in for a wonderful trip! And with regards to Mallaig, you might want to read Mike's (Auchterless) recent trip report. There are 10 parts, but this part deals with Mallaig and its beauty. https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/trip-reports/the-pay-and-display-tour-part-four

Hi, lurag.trip,

I think that our resident travel expert, isn31c (Stuart), will be a great help to you in planning this itinerary. I'm interested in finding out how you plan to visit the three Mull sites on day 6. It's a bit of a hike from the Craignure ferry terminal to those sites. You could take the bus to one of them, but the buses don't run that frequently, and you'd still need to get to the other sites. You may have to arrange for a private hire to take you around.

I'm pretty sure that there is no left luggage facility at the Craignure ferry terminal. You could contact them directly to find out. If you're returning to Oban after your time on Mull, why not just leave some of your luggage at your lodging in Oban, and take what you'll need for your time on Mull. If that's not feasible, then make sure that you have transportation once you arrive on Mull. Alternately, you could take the bus to Tobermory first, leave your luggage at your lodging, then take the bus or a private hire to your destination(s).

On day nine, the train from Oban to Mallaig via Fort William should take you no more than six hours. Just to remind you, you'll need to switch trains at Crainlarich. There is no direct train.

Day ten: Two of our favorite hikes in the Mallaig area are the Mallaig circular and the hike along Loch Morar from Bracorina. The latter is about a five mile hike. It's a beautiful hike. You end up at the isolated hamlet of Tarbet, on Loch Nevis. From there, you take the 3:30 p.m. Knoydart Ferry (Western Isles Cruises), which returns you to Mallaig via Knoydart. You have to make sure that you book your passage through Western Isles Cruises. If the boat's full, it's a long walk back! You can take a taxi from Mallaig to Bracorina. That'll save you a few miles!

On day 11, there is no direct train from Mallaig to Inverness. You'd have to go all the way to Glasgow to switch trains. Depending on which train you take, your journey would be between 9.5 and 11.5 hours. You should take the train from Mallaig to Fort William, then take the bus to Inverness. Alternately, you could take the bus from Mallaig, as you've already done the train journey going west, then switch buses in Fort William for your ongoing trip to Inverness.

Apart from some hitches in your schedule, it looks like a good itinerary.

Thanks, Mardee, for providing that link to the part of my trip report which references Mallaig! Still one of our favorite places in Scotland!

Best wishes, lurag.trip! You are going to love Scotland! Be sure to try the homemade Scottish tablet at the Jac-o-Bites Cafe in Mallaig. Your dentist will thank you for it!

Mike (Auchterless)

On Day 1 the train runs from Ayr, not Cairnryan.

There is only one connecting bus a day from Cairnryan to Ayr, connecting out of the 1130 ferry.

You want to book this with Scottish City link who run a connecting bus to Belfast Port then a connecting bus to Glasgow from Cairnryan.
Or see if it's a day when Hannons are running a bus on the 0730 ferry as that bus comes onto the ferry.

Https://hannoncoach.com

What date is this? If it is Friday 16 May Hannons are on the 0730 ferry so that is your best and easiest route.

I too don't think Craignure has a luggage facility.

Day 11 is train to Fort William then bus to Inverness. You could catch the Shiels Bus #500 from Mallaig at 0850, arrive Fort William at 1025, then bus #919 at 1035 or 1135, arrive Inverness at 1240 or 1340.

I'm travelling today then in a meeting but will look at this later.

Although this site is labeled "Irish" you'll find it lists Scottish trad as well:

https://thesession.org/sessions/

Thanks to all replies and the great info!

I did inquire re: left luggage in Criaignure, and was told there is limited space available Mon-Fri, so I would have to plan accordingly. I am really set on not driving at all this vacay (for many reasons) but am amenable to hiring a guide, if afforadable. Are the three sites I’ve mentioned outside of Craignure worth a visit? Or is there somewhere else on Mull reachable by bus I should check out?

Is Inverness reachable by bus from Mallaig? I really don’t want to backtrack to Glasgow.

I will be traveling the Scotland leg mid-may (departing June 2 for the Lake District) Thanks also for the info re: ferry/bus over from Ireland. I will check out Hannon coach

Thanks also for the trad music link! Irish, Scottish, Celtic - even modern takes on trad.. I am NOT interested in hearing another troubadour singing John Denver songs (no offense to Mr. Denver’s fans or family) :-)

Day 6 Check whether Toronsay Castle is still open. It was sold in 2012 and the new owners weren't opening it to the public. Also check on WIngs over Mull birds of Prey centre as I can't find any recent information about it on the web.

How are you intending to get from Craignure to Duart Castle?

Hi again, lurag.trip,

Your visit to Mull may involve a bit of travelling by shanks' mare. The Wings Over Mull bird sanctuary is less than a mile from the ferry terminal, so you could probably walk there and back, weather permitting. Duart Castle is about three miles from Craignure, and in the same direction. You could conceivably visit Wings Over Mull first, then walk or take the 495 bus to the entrance to the drive for Duart Castle. It's a fairly long, but flat, walk from the entrance to the drive to the castle itself from the main A849 road.

As the buses run infrequently, you may have to call for a taxi to get you to Tobermory after visiting Duart. There used to be a shuttle from Craignure to Duart Castle, but as of now, there are no plans to start up again next year. You should keep checking back, as if they restore service, that shuttle would be of great benefit to you.

I think that Stuart (isn31c) and I have already suggested ways to get from Mallaig to Inverness, but to refresh, you can either take the train from Mallaig to Fort William, then the bus for your onward journey to Inverness, or you can take the bus from Mallaig and switch to the northbound bus at Fort William. I would prefer the latter, as you'd already have seen the journey from the train. The A830 goes through some spectacular scenery, and offers a different view from that seen from the train. Be sure to make a reservation for the bus(es). They fill up quickly. Although you can stand on the bus, it's not much fun!

Once again, have a wonderful holiday!

Best wishes,

Mike (Auchterless)

p.s.: I had to laugh at your remark about troubadors singing John Denver songs. A few years ago, Mrs A and I were in Limerick. We saw a sign outside a pub advertising "traditional music". It was traditional alright - traditional Country and Western! On that same subject, you may find some traditional music at The Gellions, on Bridge Street in Inverness. It all depends on who's on stage on a particular night. You could also try Hootenanny, around the corner on Church Street.

I'm finally in from my meeting.

According to both Trip Advisor and Google maps Wings over Mull is closed permanently.

Also Duart Castle no longer provides transport from the Ferry.

We all differ but in my opinion it is not walkable, at least for me. So essentially you now have one site out of 3 on Mulll, for which you need a taxi.

You can still do the woodland walk to Torosay Castle but the Castle gardens are only open on the first Sunday of every month during the ‘season’, ten days after your proposed visit date.

The Shiel Buses service is unreserveable- turn up and go.

It is not going to be full, the first through trip of the day, and on a full sized coach.

That vehicle has actually worked an earlier 0710 service to a place called Lochailort, where it has a guaranteed connection with another bus, arriving at Fort William at 0847 (for an 0935 bus to Inverness).

Just found that out by looking at satellite tracking.

The bus to Inverness is technically a coach service so as far as I know no standing is allowed. Personally I would allow myself an hour in Fort William both to use the (free) restrooms at Morrisons and to cover for any delays.
For instance currently getting into Fort William from the Mallaig direction is having significant delays due to 3 way traffic signals at some roadworks.

Thanks again, Stuart, Mike and all!

Well, it looks like since Toronsay Castle and Wings over Mull are now out, I don’t mind doing a 3-mile walk (and back to Duart Castle, if you all think it’s a pretty walk and the castle is worth seeing. How difficult is it to get a taxi on Mull in May? Other suggestions?

And, yes, sorry, I replied first before seeing the info on getting from Mallaig to Inverness by bus. (By the way, I enjoyed the trip report on Mallaig - will have to try the “Jac-O-Bite” cafe; good info on the walks there.

Would you all recommend I reserve train and bus tickets 3 months out in order to get a seat (on those which I can reserve?)

Also, I did forget to see if I can leave luggage at train station in Stirling. My aim is to to carry a “suitcase” backpack and a small cross-body bag, using a smaller daypack when walking. Any thoughts on seeing Stirling on the way to Edinburg, or should I head to Edinburg early then do a day trip to Stirling? I hate back-tracking.

There is no left luggage at Stirling Station but Mike has posted advice before about a couple of app based luggage facilities in hotels close by. I would hope the Stirling HoHo bus would have started by the time of your visit- which goes to the Wallace Monument (first) then up to the Castle.

Booking 3 months in advance is overkill, a week or so will be quite ample.

Any time I've been to Craignure the taxis are hanging round at ferry arrival times but in case not see this page to maybe pre book- https://www.isle-of-mull.net/mull-information/travel-around-mull/taxis/

Possibly pre book a tour to Duart then round to Tobermory via the back road past Calgary beach (a white sand beach) which has pretty few buses.

Hi once again, lurag.trip,

The left luggage storage in Stirling to which Stuart referred is at the Premier Inn Central near the train station. It is the equivalent of about three city blocks from the station, but is in the oppsite direction to the castle. There used to be left luggage storage at the Willy Wallace Hostel on Murray Place, which is actually on the way to the castle. However, the hostel recently rebranded itself as the William Wallace Hotel, and I don't know whether they still offer the same luggage storage facilities. It's worth contacting them, however, as it would save a bit of walking. The hostel had received some really bad reviews before rebranding.

As far as Mull goes, if you decide to walk to Duart Castle, the first part of the walk is along the main Mull A849 route. I don't recall if there was a path alongside the road, so you may have to walk on the main road. Perhaps someone local to Mull can provide more information. As you're walking, perhaps a sympathetic local will provide a lift.

If you are really interested in seeing wildlife on Mull, in lieu of the Wings Over Mull birds of prey sanctuary, you could try www.wildlifeonmull.co.uk They offer one day trips around Mull, seeing as much sea, land, and bird life as possible. Their telephone number from the US is 011 44 7587 394826. According to their website, they will meet you at the ferry terminal.

Once again, have a wonderful holiday!

Mike (Auchterless)

In my experience (2019 , and things have only gotten more challenging, I'm sure), it's pretty tough to find affordable lodging in Oban and really a challenge in Tobermory. It's not too early to work on that. I know nothing about the situation in Mallaig and Pitlochry.

Thanks yet again for the great info! I feel like I can now start booking my lodging unless any of you see other big holes in my plan. Good to know I don’t have to start booking transport just yet. I will check on the wildlife tour in Mull and the left luggage at Stirling. Any other tips or sights you think I simply must add, please let me know!

Re the walk to Duart. Turn left out of the ferry on the sidewalk towards the Church. Just after the Church is the woodland footpath towards the closed Torosay Castle which runs alongside the trackbed of the old Mull railway. At the entrance to the closed castle that becomes a minor road. Take that to the A849, turn left for about 400 yards, then the long two mile or so castle access road.
You pass Duart from the sea as the ship is approaching Craignure.

Both on the A849 and on the narrow castle access road walk facing oncoming traffic, and be prepared to step aside onto the verge on these narrow roads.

I was on a similar road last night (admittedly in the dark) and had several very narrow escapes due to appalling driving. Bearing in mind many of the drivers on Mull are visitors please take good care if you do walk. I am very very lucky this morning not to be in hospital or worse. Just badly shaken up. I really would feel happier if you took a taxi.

PS- For your day trip to Iona buy a Mull 24 hour island ticket on the West Coast Motors App (currently £18.00), and to and from Tobermory a Tobermory two journey ticket on the app- currently £13.70.
Much the cheapest way of travelling than buying single tickets on the bus.

Personally I think Oban is a very good value place to stay. I have never had any problems finding affordable places to stay over many years. There is lots of choice there. In fact I would personally stay there and commute to Mull and Iona, as Mull is quite tight for places to stay and generally not that cheap. I have stayed at various places on the Corran Esplanade, ten to fifteen minutes walk from the station. That works well when my usual town centre haunts are busy.

A lot to “Mull” over but looks like I’ll have plenty of time to “finalize” my general plans (and I realize best laid plans can all can all change last minute due to weather, railway strikes, etc)

Isn31c- So glad you did not end up in hospital last night! I will heed your advice then and take the taxi since I’d just be walking on the main road to Duart castle. (And you will be happy that I will not be one of those crazy tourist drivers!) Last week I saw a couple of places on Tobermory available for my dates that were not too pricey - I suppose I need to jump on those now.

Thanks again, all, for all the links and info!

Hi once again, lurag.trip,

I don't know whether the Park Lodge Hotel in Tobermory is among the lodging you've looked at, but we stayed there a few years ago, and found it to be reasonably priced, clean, and comfortable. It's a short walk down to the harbour, and as you're travelling by public transportation and shanks' mare, that's actually a good thing, as the car park is very small.

Best wishes once again!

Mike (Auchterless)

By the way for Kilmartin there is a later bus back at 1745- note this is a schoolday only service-school vacation starts on the Thursday two days after this proposed visit- https://passenger-line-assets.s3.eu-west-1.amazonaws.com/westcoastmotors/WCMO/23-timetable-20240606-45fba291.pdf

Many thanks for additional info re: hotel, and the bus from Kilmartin!

One more question (for now!): I see that Monday, May 26 is a “bank” holiday. Are there fewer buses on holidays? This is the day I’ll be traveling from Mallaig to Inverness.

Oh, darn it. Yes 26 May is one of the UK wide bank holidays - not all are , some are England or Scotland only.
The bus to Inverness will run as well as the train, as normal. They aren't In doubt.

In Scotland local buses tend to run to School Holiday times on Bank Holidays, not Sunday Times as in England. Looking back on Shiel Buses Facebook account that seems to be the case here, but maybe e mail them in March or ear!y April to 100% check.

I would hate to give you false hopes and have you standing there at an empty bus stop then missing a booked connection in Fort William