Hello all,
I know Portugal was a neutral country during WW2 but I also understand that Lisbon was a hotbed of intrigue with spies from all countries based there. Are there any sites or museums in LIsbon that cover WW2 either immediately before, during, or immediately after WW2?
Thanks in advance. Will be in Lisbon erly Oct.
I don’t know of any sites dedicated to the spies. However, the town of Estoril, very close to Cascais was supposedly the epicenter of the spies, etc. A bit related - the Estoril Casino was frequented by Ian Fleming. It was there he came up with the idea of James Bond. There are stories of an old hotel being torn down and the walls being filled with miles and miles of wires for bugging the rooms. The Palacio Hotel in Estoril is still there and was also likely frequented by some of the spies, etc. It’s a lovely old hotel and worth a visit for a drink. I know there are some private guides in Lisbon who will do tours about the spies in WWII, but I don’t have their names - sorry.
And, lastly, even though Portugal was thought to be neutral, Salazar ( dictator at that time) played both sides in the war for his monetary gain. I don’t know much about that story but think it’s quite fascinating.
Thanks for the info. I can't remember the book I read that covered WW2 espionage (on both sides) in Portugal but I will investigate a trip to Estoril.
I think the book you’re thinking of is: Lisbon: War in the Shadow of the city of Light by Neil Lochery. It’s fascinating and a must read for a Portugal trip in my opinion.
I have not read this book but I will seek it out in my library. Thanks for the tip.
The book to which I was referring was fiction but very well researched. I think it was by Alan Furst.
The book is on Amazon and Kindle. Ordering it now.
In Sao Pedro do Estoril there is the preserved spotlight used to light ships entering Lisbon harbor, canons further up would fire on the ships.
The canons have been abandoned but you can see the spotlight.
I have a photo of it in my trip report if you want to check in with, it's a long report scroll to post 31.
https://www.fodors.com/community/europe/extended-trip-to-portugal-1711933/page2/
Regarding spies there's a James Bond connection to Hotel Monte Estoril but also closer to Vermont.
In Whitby,Ontario, the author of James Bond , Ian Fleming attended Camp X ( yes that was the real code name) that was set up and run Sir William Stephenson - a man called Intrepid ( code name), the real life inspiration for the James Bond character.
I've visited the actual site ( at the south end of today's Oshawa airport), but unfortunately the buildings were completely destroyed, instead there's a small tank museum run by volunteers.
Elsewhere in Withby there's a plaque and a statue of the man called Intrepid.
It's not necessarily about WW2, but there is a Resistance Museum in Lisbon that is worth a visit - it covers the repression and authoritarianism during Salazar's reign beginning in 1926 (and a few years beyond his death) as a dictator, culminating in the uprising in 1974 that brought democracy to Portugal. Definitely thought provoking in this day and age....
We took a fabulous walking tour entitled ‘Lisbon:City of Spies’. It was through Lisbon Walkers. They only run it on Tuesday and Fridays. Definitely the best walking tour we have taken about WWII.
Thanks to everyone for the responses. Barbara, your tour sounds like the perfect fit. I can't recall what day of the week I will be in LIsbon but I wil definitely check it out. As well as the resistance museum. Thanks all.
