Hello. Just in the planning stages of a “slow” trip to Portugal at end of October to first week December. We like a mix of history, culture and outdoor (hiking) activities. Any comments or suggestions welcomed!
Fly into Porto (5 nights with a day trip into Douro valley)
Coimbra - 2 nights
Evora-3 nights (pick up rental car)
Tavira - 5 nights
Lagos - 7 nights
Mini break to Canary Islands (14 nights)
Back to Lisbon for 5 nights and fly home
I've learned that few tourists will want to stay as long as I usually do in quaint historic towns, but since you have specified an interest in history, culture, and slow travel, you could perhaps justify a second night in Coimbra, provided you are willing to subtract a night from another destination.
I haven't been to the Douro valley, so there are limits to what I can say about it. But it is, evidently, a valley; and while a day trip to a point in space, like a small town, is easily imagined, it's harder to imagine a day trip to a river valley that's some 80 miles long (before it becomes the Spanish Duero). I'm sure it's a beautiful valley to look at, but you probably have some spectacular ones on hand in British Columbia.
I recommend visiting Sintra either as a day trip from Lisbon or spend a couple nights there. Perhaps you could take a night or two from Canary Islands, or Tavira, or Lagos to add to Sintra. But it is doable as a daytrip from Lisbon; it's just that you won't have time to see everything Sintra has to offer in one day.
12 nights in the Algarve in November feel long. It will not be beach weather (unlike in the Canary islands). You could cut that to 6 nights, and use more time to explore the vast region between Porto and Lisbon, and perhaps throw in a visit to Guimaraes or Braga from Porto.
3 nights in Evora is longer than what most people will allow, but with a car you could explore the megalithic sites in the region (never been), or jump across the Spanish border to visit the Roman ruins of Mérida.
Thanks for the suggestions so far! Yes, we planned to visit some monoliths with the rental car when in Evora; Almendres Cromlech sounds particularly interesting. I think we will add a full day to Coimbra as we want to visit Ancient Conímbriga. Curious for other comments/experiences for a week in Lagos. We will also have a car and plan to explore west and north towards Lisbon. A week still too long in Lagos? Still not convinced about Sintra. We are not too interested in modern “Whimsical palaces”…we have been to “Neuschwanstein Castle” in Fussen Germany and that was enough! Other reasons for a day trip to Sintra? Anyone ever visited Beja? Thanks for all your insights!
To CLKR: As with the Douro valley, I skipped Sintra on my trip to Portugal, despite spending several days in Lisbon. Many will argue, with reason, that I don't know what I missed, but I do know what I would have missed if I had gone to Sintra; namely, a thoroughly enjoyable second afternoon in Lisbon's medieval Alfama. I skipped Sintra for the same reason you may; grandiose fairy-tale pleasure palaces for smug aristocrats are not my scene. (Though in fairness, there are other more authentic historical sites in Sintra as well, like a real medieval castle.) Anyway, I just wanted you to know that if you overlook Sintra, you won't be the first; but after me, you and your travel companion may be the second and third.
The Algarve is my default beach destination (May, June or September). I have also been in October and February/March - now at this time of year, I head to Fuerteventura in the Canaries, as the weather is better than Portugal. The sea is cold, even in summer as it’s the Atlantic not the Med.
I have had torrential rain (and some sunshine!) in Lagos in October. Due to the wind at the western end of the Algarve, October onwards is marginal for beach time. You will need warm layers for the evenings into November.
From Lagos by car, you can easily visit the gorgeous beaches up the west coast backed by amazing cliffs around Carrapateira. There aren’t as many places to see north of here until you get close to Comporta near Lisbon.
A trip to Monchique and Foia in the hills is nice if you pick a day with decent weather. It is cold and windy up there, so wear warm layers. Sagres is always windy and cooler.
Other than golf and beaches, compared to other regions of Portugal, the Algarve has far less to offer and more modern development. In the winter, I would spend longer exploring between Porto and Lisbon and have a week maximum in the Algarve.
I haven’t been to Beja, but I know a Portuguese couple from the Algarve who used to head there when they wanted some “city life” (35,000 population!) and another Portuguese friend said why go all that way as there’s nothing there - it’s just a regular town.
Make sure your car has a transponder for the tolls. Whenever I have taken a Portuguese hire car into Spain, I have been charged extra - notify your rental company, otherwise the insurance is invalidated. If you have cover for Spain, petrol in Spain is considerably cheaper than in Portugal, so whilst in Tavira, head across the bridge and fill up and have lunch in Ayemonte.
If you have a car in Evora, 3 nights will definitely not be too much. We spent 4 nights there and with day trips, we found plenty to do. We drove to Monsaraz one day which was very beautiful and another day we drove to the marble towns of Vila Vicosa and Estremoz (and stopped into the winery at Dona Maria). The food in Evora was excellent. Even though we were there in June, everything still felt relatively uncrowded and laid back, we loved it.
