We just returned yesterday from trip to Portugal and Spain. In Portugal we stayed in Porto, Coimbra, and Lisbon.
Trains. We rode the hi-speed train from Porto to Coimbra, and then from Coimbra to Lisbon. I purchased the tickets directly from the operator from their website with no problem, as soon as they became available two months before our travel dates. I believe dynamic pricing is used, and purchasing our non-refundable but changeable tickets that early provided a price of about 15€ each for each leg, first class. (Purchasing that early meant the pricing was only slightly higher for first class.)
Tram 28. Other than taking a tram back from Belem to Lisbon (which in our case was actually a bus numbered as a tram), we did not ride a tram in either Porto or Lisbon as we found both cities surprisingly walkable (even for us older folks). (Though we did ride a funicular in both Porto and Lisbon.) Also, in Porto many of the trams were not running due to construction on the tracks. In fact, the road in front of the main train station, Sao Bento, was largely blocked off due to the work.
Restaurants.
In Porto we had an enjoyable and delicious set meal at Emotivo, which we learned of from the Taste Porto website. Relaxed but finer dining.
In Lisbon we dined at two oft-touted relatively finer dining restaurants. We found A Cervicheria as ok, and were disappointed by Palácio Chiado. (Your experience could be different; Tripadvisor reviews rate both highly.)
NOTE: The credit card machines of many restaurants in Portugal asked us if we wanted to pay in Euros or US Dollars, but with a twist: (other than a single restaurant in Spain) only in Portugal did such restaurants present us not one, but TWO questions (sort of like the ATMs). Question one was the typical Euros or Dollars question. Question two then repeated the ask, but in a different form. To avoid paying in Dollars (and being charged a disadvantageous exchange rate), one needs to provide the correct response to both questions.
Other Observations.
- In Belem I was going to skip Jerónimos Monastery due to the stories of long lines, but in the end we decided to go. It was well worth it. We bought our tickets a night earlier for opening time. At that time we only needed to wait in line about 30 minutes, and the temperature was comfortable. By noon the line was three times longer and the sun was hot.
- In Sintra we followed the advice of a tour guide (especially after reading of the crowds, local bus issues, and reviews of the interior) and did not go to Pena Palace, nor to the Moorish Castle. Instead we went (without a tour guide) to the newly-opened Beister Palace (really a mansion) and to the National Palace of Sintra. We enjoyed both, and both are walkable from the train station.
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Though we enjoyed the fado show at Fado au Centro in Coimbra, we were disappointed by the (low-energy) Fado Museum in Lisbon.
- Cruise ships in Lisbon (and Porto). We strived to avoid the Lisbon cruise ship crowds by planning our day trips to Sintra and Belem for days when cruise ships were visiting Lisbon. Two useful sites are https://www.cruisemapper.com/ports/lisbon-port-65?tab=schedule&month=2023-09#schedule and https://www.cruisetimetables.com/lisbonportugalschedule-30aug2023.html. (BTW, at the last minute we changed our schedule around a bit and did visit the Alfama neighborhood (in Lisbon) when a cruise ship was docked there. It was indeed crowded, though not unbearably.)
