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Portugal Itinerary - Sintra, Obidos, Coimbra?

We (family of four with two teen-aged girls) will be spending 9 nights in Portugal next July. We are flying into Lisbon and out of Porto.

My tentative itinerary is as follows:
Lisbon (3 nights);
get rental car and drive to Sintra for the day then on to Obidos (1 night);
drive via Alcobaca and Batalha to Coimbra (2 nights);
drive to Porto (3 nights)

After reading about the difficult traffic and parking in Sintra, I am wondering if this is a good plan. I am wondering if we should either:
A) Do Sintra as a day trip from Lisbon, and then just drive straight from Lisbon to Obidos
B) Skip Obidos/Alcobaca/Batalha entirely, extend our Lisbon stay to four nights, day trip to Sintra, and possibly just take the train from Lisbon direct to Coimbra and then on to Porto.

Would love any thoughts or advice.

Posted by
484 posts

This plan is workable...However, you must arrive in Sintra before the crowds get there. The small parking area I have used a few times is across the street from the train station on Rua Joao de Deus. You pay the machine for a ticket to put on the dash to keep the car there, but return by around 5:00pm. The machine has a note on it explaining the cost and times...I think it only accepts euro coins, but I could be incorrect. The best part of parking here is the bus to take you around is a 2 minute walk away at the train station, the first and last stop. So you have to pick up the car early in Lisbon and be on the highway by 8:30am the latest. If that lot is full, there are other lots to use as shown in the guidebook, but involve more walking to get the bus.

Don't skip Obidos, Alcobaca, or Batalha, especially for the sake of your kids. As much as I love Lisbon, there is so much more to Portugal than the big cities. The best part of Obidos for us has been walking on the massive wall protecting the village. To think soldiers so many centuries ago walked these same walls is just incredible.

Before heading to Alcobaca, make a quick stop in Sitio, above Nazare. The view from the cliff overlooking Nazare is gorgeous. Try some peanut cookies from the vendors there. It only costs about 3 euros.

Batalha is even worth 1/2 hour for a quick visit. This church, and the huge bronze statue outside, has to be seen at least once to be believed that humans could construct such a building so long ago.

Alcobaca has important historical significance for this country and can keep you occupied for a couple of hours. Coimbra is also an integral key to understanding Portugal and its history.

Porto has much less meaning without the "Driving the Douro" chapter. Visit a winery where the vineyards are to comprehend the rough landscape producing these special grapes. The soil is not what we thought it would be, you'll see.

July will be HOT and sunny in all the places you will be visiting, so hats and sunglasses along with plenty of water bottles for the girls will be important, and for the adults as well. Crowds will be a challenge as well, as Portugal is becoming very popular.

I have never used the train in Portugal because a car allows tremendous freedom and efficiency. With a good GPS map and the VIA Verde transponder in the rental car you will be fine. If you can "Drive the Douro" on day one for Porto before going to your hotel, you can drop it off later that night to save rental and parking costs. You do not need a car in Porto for the next two days before flying out.

Follow all the advice in Rick's Portugal book for these places, as his instructions are definitely on target.

Good luck

Posted by
2456 posts

Cathy, I was in Portugal this past May, and visited all the cities and towns you mentioned, but in considerably more time. While all these places make for great visits, your itinerary seems quite rushed to me. Sintra really does merit much more than a few hours, I spent two nights and two days, as besides the town itself, there are 4 or 5 palaces/estates/gardens, where you can easily spend a worthwhile half day or more at each one. During a day trip in the heart of the day, you are of course bunched together with all the other day trippers. The walk from the train station into the center of town is very pleasant, with modern and traditional art along the way, although it does take maybe 15 minutes. I heard that Monday is the absolute busiest day, as that is the day that so many sites in Lisbon are closed, so many tourists spend the day in Sintra. In Lisbon, I enjoyed wandering around the narrow streets of the Alfama and Mouraria neighborhoods, including the Fado Museum if you are into music. People there are very informal and friendly. Also loved all the azulejos (ceramic tiles) in Lisbon and elsewhere, as well as the wonderful Azulejos Museum, which has a nice garden spot for lunch. In Alcobaca, besides the famous and beautiful monastery, I enjoyed spending some time inside the central market, quite an ordinary building, but very friendly vendors, I took a lot of nice portrait photographs, and a great place to pick up some fruit or veggies for lunch or a snack. Lots to see and do in every beautiful place you mention, so I'm sure you'll have a wonderful trip. Set yourself up for early morning starts, to make the most of every day!

Posted by
1824 posts

I think you are being way too ambitious with the limited time you have. All the places you list are great but I'm concerned you will be spending so much time rushing from place to place, you won't enjoy them. I would encourage you to read (again) all the info on the places you have originally planned and pare it down to no more than three places in nine days.
The biggest challenge of travel is accepting that rarely do we get to see everything we would like on any given trip.
I personally like your plan B even though you will be missing several places, you can easily fill the nine days with this plan. And, avoid the extra stress of driving. From Porto, there are a number of ways to see the Douro without a car.

Posted by
4 posts

Thank you all for your thoughtful responses! I wish we did have more time... This is our first time in Portugal and I am sure we will love it.

Posted by
2738 posts

Having just done pretty much this trip in 15 days, and feeling rushed at many points, I think you are pushing it. It's a King Solomon type of choice, but I think you need to lob something off or you'll not enjoy this. There was a suggestion to even adding Nazare. Don't do it. Nice views, little else. Alcobaca and Batalha were nice stops. Pick one, just one, after you've read up on it. Obidos worth a night. Coimbra was just OK. Heresy to some I know but if I were returning I would not revisit. Now Lisbon-there I would spend more time. So much to see and do. Keep in mind we hit a very long (4 hour) passport control in Lisbon. That blew a day. Sintra is a day trip with the time you have. Porto looks better in hindsight, but it is "gritty" as RS would say. The Douro Valley is beautiful but it's wine country, not much there for the teens.

Posted by
567 posts

I would very much recommend you doing Option B. The large majority of your nights are in towns and cities that you don't need or want a car in. The train will be a pleasant break, and there are higher speed between Lisbon, Coimbra and Porto. As well car rental in Portugal can be expensive in the summer, particularly if you don't drive a standard.

It will be hot that time of year, and crowded at the big sites. You could consider a night in Sintra to get an early start ahead of the crowds, and enjoy the shade and gardens out there. As well you might want to consider Cascais for some beaching, I know my girls always enjoyed that on our trips.

Posted by
4 posts

All of your feedback has been so helpful -- thank you!

It seems like the day trip to Sintra is the way to go, so I have extended our stay in Lisbon to 4 nights, and we will do Sintra as a day trip on Tues or Weds.

That leaves us two nights in between Lisbon and Porto. Your feedback has been pretty unanimous that we don't want to rush and try to do both Obidos/monasteries and Coimbra in that short period. I am leaning towards Obidos/monasteries, because feedback on Coimbra appears mixed and it would be nice to see a bit of rural Portugal in addition to the cities. Also, although the train would be easier/more relaxing, we are comfortable with driving in foreign countries with a stick shift. Would love others' thoughts on this choice.

If we omitted Coimbra, I have thought of a couple of possibilities:
A) Day 1: drive from Lisbon via Alcobacar or the coastline (Ericeira or Peniche) to Obidos, stay overnight in castle/pousada. Day 2: drive to Tomar and explore, stay overnight there (Hotel dos Templarios) or nearby (Pousada de Ourem or Quinta de Santa Barbara); Day 3: drive straight to Porto. Pros: get to stay in castle and see Tomar. Cons: more driving and moving of hotels.

B) Stay for two nights at Marriott Praia d'El Rey and see at least Alcobacar and Obidos during one of the days, but probably not Tomar. From there drive straight to Porto. Pros: get some beach time, would allow less ambitious sight-seers in family to opt out for a day. Cons: don't see Tomar, don't say in castle.

C) Stay in castle/pousada at Obidos for one night only, and see area sights on the way in from Lisbon and out to Porto. Pros: less driving, more time in Porto; Cons: still too rushed?

Again, would appreciate thoughts and advice on these options or any others you would recommend instead.