Please sign in to post.

Portugal in July and your through the "back door" ideas

Hi all

We are heading to Portugal in mid July which is not my first choice because of crowds (and the heat) but our daughter is studying abroad and we're going to meet her. My husband and I are not "crowd" people so I'm worried about visiting the traditional places on everyones list like Sintra, Evora, Obidos during the summer? Your thoughts?

We are starting in Lisbon, then Caicas, then Villa Perda in a rural area near Coimbra and then on to Porto. We love slowing down and enjoying the culture of the country and the cities, we love taking walks and taking in the atmosphere of a place, and we love nature. Some of the self guided walks in Lisbon from the Rick Steves book look perfect for us for example. I would love to hear any thoughts on other more off the beaten track ideas of things to do!

Posted by
11056 posts

We stopped at a wonderful pottery factory on the road between Alcobaça and Batalha. Olaria Vale Coelho. Beautiful pieces. He exports to stores in US including Bloomingdale's.
At Alcobaça, make sure you visit the tombs of King Pedro and his love, Ines. Google their story, quite something! . Their romance/liaison took place in Coimbra. You can daytrip to Alcobaça from Obidos.
A seafood lunch in Nazaré is wonderful.
In Lisbon, visit Belem and the archcitecturally beautiful Jeronimos Monastery.
The Tile Museum in Lisbon is quite interesting.
Perfect summer drink is Vinho Verde, light white wine with some bubbly to it.
I Sintra do not miss the Nacional Palace, much older and more trafidicionsl than Pena Palace up the hill.

Posted by
672 posts

Here are a few suggestions to consider. I have not been to any of the three but they are on my list of places for a future Portugal trip. Like you, I love to go to smaller towns. Look at the old small fortified town of Elvas. Also, if you have any interest in The Knights Templar check out Tomar. And there are several sites with considerable Roman ruins, like Conimbriga. I have been to Nazaré and enjoyed that town very much.

Posted by
315 posts

Praca Luis da Camoes is on R. da Misericordia which turns into R. Sao Pedro de Alcantara. The street has a narrow side walk. This street is where you will find Igreja de Sao Roque. The interior is over the top and a few were inside at the time we went in. There is square to have a glass a wine. Or keep walking (do not go into The Insolito or Decandent) and across from the lovely Miradourade de Sao Pedro de Alcantara is a wine bar with tapas, wine at the mirador or further up is a very busy tapa bar that we did not try. We walked this street many times to the stairs that would take us to our lodging. Marino Lisboa- Boutique Hotel on Gloria. Before the Mirador is the Gloria funicular. Praca Camoes is near the escalators down and down and up to get to the elevator for Castelo Jorge. Good old MacDonalds does not have a coffee bar! The Castle is a lot of stairs if you take them all in. It is a large complex and the excess people seem to disappear.
Igreja de Sao Domingos and Carmo were not significantly busy. They were quiet compared to the streets of Lisbon. Would have liked to see Graca but kept on walking around it.
Tram 28 will require a long wait time. If you do not mind standing, the first stop on the route allows immediate access. The tram is worth the wait, it takes you through areas you may not get to. At the end of Tram 28 line, after a short walk, is Mercado Campo de Ourique. Not just a market, but a food court with many choices. Many locals are about! We went exploring and walked through a local area down toward the river. Some Brits were walking up! Easier to walk down. Then, walked in a disoriented way to Jardim 9 Abril mirador, it is next to Museum Nation de Arte Antiga. It was not museum weather, here it is a good choice. Found our way to Elevator da Bica and up we go in a very short time. Nice views of the river and past a famous chef's restaurant. Now, I know where the restaurant is located. Back to Camoes.
Off the beaten track and requires cash and reservation for my two restaurant recommendations: Terras Gerais Bistro 351 21 800 7429 and Restaurante As Velhas 351 21 342 2490. RS may recommend the first.
Take a look at my postings for Sintra for further suggestions.

Tomar castle is my favorite outside of Lisbon.
Belem has great sites to see. If you buy ticket for Monastery and Torre, do not stand in ticket line at Torre. The sights are over run with tour bus patrons. You will not be able to get to the facilities (bathroom) due to the number of patrons. Peddlers at the sights and thieves on transportation are present. Great, Gelato near by. Maybe, my suggestions for Sintra would work in Belem. We were only able to see the Monastery before 1000-1030 and then it was like a soccer field around them places.

Posted by
1654 posts

You are correct about the crowds - and heat in July. But, you can minimize it somewhat by seeking out some of the (slightly) lesser sites...
In Lisbon, you can take the ferry from the Cais do Sodre trainstation (in the back toward the river) across to Calcilhas. It's a small town on the opposite side of the Tejo River. There is a small Main Street to stroll but the main thing is a couple of restaurants with amazing views of Lisbon. After you exit the ferry, turn right and walk along the water. It's an old wharf and you will likely see a few fishermen. After 10-15 minutes, you reach two small restaurants with outside seating. They aren't too pricey and the view is great. You will also likely see few tourists.

The Campo do Ourique neighborhood is also untouristy. It's also flat and is great to walk around. As another poster mentioned, there is a Mercado with places to eat. The original Aloma is also here. Aloma won the "best pastel da nata" distinction for several years.

In Cascais, either walk or take the Buscas (427 bus) to Casa da Guia. There are a number of small restaurants with amazing sea views. Then walk back to town along the sea. You can also walk the paredão from Estoril to Cascais along the bay. Do this in the early morning or evening to avoid the heat and big crowds. Cascais has festivals and special things almost every weekend during the summer. You can check out their Facebook page for things that might be happening when you are here.