We'll be in Porto in April and one activity we'd like to do is visit a port wine cellar. Can someone provide a list of these places from which I can do some research? I'm assuming most of this activity is a cellar tour on how the port is made and tasting (much like whiskey distillery tours we've done in Ireland, though of course I could be wrong on this), but if there is more to it than that, I would love to know what this full activity would involve. Thanks!
I don't have a list of the others, we visited Calem. You won't see it being made in Porto, it's made in the Douro Valley and then the barrels are shipped to Porto. Here's an excerpt from my Trip Report:
we chose the Calem Caves (cave translates to basement in English). For €25 we got a 45-minute tour to learn about port and see the barrels stacked up in the cave. Barrels are used for about 150 years before their sold off to whisky distillers. After the tour we went into the tasting room and were given 3 glasses. I’m not much of a wine/port drinker and so I’d take a small sip of each and pass them to Carla. Little did I know that Lorrie gave two of hers to Carla who happily had 8-2-ounce glasses of port in about 45 minutes. Let’s just say she left happy and giggly. We were taught how to swirl your glass and take a sniff to appreciate the aromas of what you’re drinking. I’m not sure how that helps. The first two I tried, I really liked the smell, but the taste was awful. The 3rd was the only one I liked but it smelled horrible, and I almost gave it away without trying.
The biggest houses are an embarrassment of riches. Taylor's, Sandeman, Graham's, Cockburn, Fonseca, Ferreira, and Calem are the most popular/biggest. There's another called Niepoort, but I haven't visited that one. They are all pretty much the same. You'll get information on the grapes, how the port is made, historical perspectives on production, transportation and consumption, samples, and, of course, a shop. Some offer guided tours, others are self-guided, and I remember one being a mix, but I can't remember which one. I'd suggest you check the websites of each house for the details on what is offered and go from there. Try to find one with an opportunity to sample tawny, ruby, and white. White port, our favorite, is available in the US, but the best quality stuff, by far, is found in country. Still, worth a try.
I've only been to two, Graham's and Sandeman's. Graham's was a very nice tour of the cellars and the description of the process with what seemed to me to be a fairly extensive tasting. Sandeman's was a huge disappointment after Graham's. The guide recited his spiel in a less than enthusiastic fashion. I took one sip of one of the samples we were given to taste and pushed it away. Gave it to some college age kids on the tour. It was pretty bad in comparison to Graham's selections.
I have done both the Taylor's and Sandeman's tours, and as I am not a fan of sweet wines I went with the older vintages tasting. I've lived in and around wineries and distillers for decades, so the tours didn't show much that was new other than the particular history and how that's impacted the industry in Porto, which was good.
The small group I was part of at Sandeman's was the best part of the tour. The port was okay, I'm not a good judge, but they didn't rush to get us out and we sat and drank the 5-6 glasses they poured for well over an hour. I made a couple of friends, we still keep in touch, and the next time they visit Europe I'll take them on a local wine tour.
These are the notes I have so far for port tastings:
Port tasting
- Vila Nova de Gaia is a short walk across the Dom Luis I Bridge, take the lower deck for the riverside and port cellars
- Calem
- Sandeman
- Taylors – no reservations required, audio guide, self guided exhibition style space
- Ferreira (Dona Antonia Ferreira – powerful businesswoman)
- Grahams – tasting favorite and has good views
- Real Companhia Velha – oldest wine company
- Pocas – smaller producer operated by a Portuguese family
- Sampled ports at the Port & Douro Wines Institute – This is a pay-as-you go tasting. Get a card from the from the attendant, insert card in machine, place glass under spout of desired drink, push button, drink. The attendant tallies up your bills when you are finished. The 30-year-old Cruz (14 Euros a tasting) was especially nice.