Lagos to Coimbra tomorrow

Just open a maps program and pick a road that isn’t an interstate. Driving will be slower and there may be more twists and turns, but you’ll avoid the tolls and the scenery should be prettier. Looking at Google maps there appear to be plenty of options.

I am not sure that non-motorway options will be that interesting south of the Tejo river. Even the seemingly-coastal N120 is rather boring, travelling mostly inland. So I would stick to the motorway until Santarém for sure.

Beyond that, you could take the opportunity to spend a few hours in Tomar, Alcobaça or Batalha if you are not planning to do so already. N362 from Santarém to Batalha is scenic if you are headed that way. And if you are headed to Tomar, if you still have some time before going to Coimbra, the roads north of Tomar through the Serra da Lousã (N236) are very scenic (but very slow and in mediocre condition in parts).

What about Evora?

i forgot to mention we wanted to stop in Obidos & possibly Nazare, so I think Evora is too far out of the way

Even Obidos and Nazaré are a bit out of the way. I'd choose Tomar over Obidos, personally. But if you want to stop by Obidos, then you need to stick to highways - you will need the time savings.

Inland is hot (Evora). Unless you like heat, which I personally don't, I'd stick closer to the coast. Personally, I actually like Obidos and the monasteries Alcobaça and Batalha which are pretty close to Obidos. I've not made it yet to Tomar (there was a heat wave last time I was there) but would love to see it.

There is parking right outside of Obidos, a large parking lot by the Roman aqueduct. Don't drive into the walled city.

thanks so much for the info everyone! it’s a longish day of driving, but i’m thankful to be a passenger this time 🙃