I just saw a recorded CNN Anthony Bourdain TV show on Oporto (the locals' name for their city). That show, which featured a big 2-day pig-roast dinner with family and friends of a long-time restaurant colleague (preceded by the on-site slaughtering of the pig, which wasn't exactly pleasant, but the show stressed that people should know from where there food is coming, and how it got to the table), as well as loads of seafood and other delicacies during his visit. Oh, and two women running a fish stall at the market who used some pretty raunchy (translated) language. The town looked wonderful, and since it's been 14 years since our last visit to Portugal - and we didn't have time to fit in Oporto then, with just a week -- it looks really appealing. As far as "grittiness," that show didn't make the city itself it look anywhere as gritty as, say, Naples, Italy, and his shows generally seem to seek out the edgiest parts of a place! The views shown of the city, which maybe didn't represent every part of it, showed no ultra-modern high-rise buildings, and it looked like some parts of Europe did maybe 30 years ago. Bourdain summed up his show suggesting that maybe nothing ever really changes. Tradition seems important in Portugal - be sure to take in a Fado dinner show (Rick's book includes info on at least one in Lisbon). Oh, and the area in and around Evora, in cork tree country quite some way inland from the coast, was among the highlights of our last trip, but with only 7 days that could be stretching things even more for you.