I arrived somewhat tired and cranky due to a daybreak flight and a 3 hour layover in what is a 6 hour direct flight. I landed in Lisbon and had a little trouble getting to the metro (no signage). The ticket machines are easy and the trains are modern. On the short ride to Lisbon there were few people on the train. At Oriente station I finally found the correct ticket office for the train to Sintra and topped up my Via Viagem card. I'd read that there are 4 trains an hour but I had to wait 40 minutes for the next one. These trains are much older than the metro trains. So it was 3 hours from the debarkation (cleared passport control in Geneva) to my hotel (taxi from the train). BTW taxis are cheap and Uber is about half the price, which I found out the next day. By the time I'd checked in, it was too late for any of the sights, but I got my bearings walking around - well, not around but up and down :-) - had dinner at Tulhas (recommended on RS or Lonely Planet) and it was very good - grilled sea bream.
In the morning I walked to Quinta da Regaleira. It's a pleasant 10 minute stroll ffrom the center, then a 400 m. uphill trek to the entrance. The garden are pleasant, the paths wind around so I was never quite sure where I was going - and it seems neither were the other visitors I asked along the way who were as confused as I. I arrived about 1/2 hour after opening and there were no lines but inside there were several large groups of high school students who easily outnumbered the tourists representing many of the UN members.
Then I walked back to the center and continued to the train station to get the bus to Cabo da Roca (it goes thrugh there on the way to Cascais). If you've driven along the norther California coastline you can skip it. The bus ride is long, slow and not interesting. If you want to spend 1/2 day hiking, it's a good place though. The trip from there to Cascais is much more scenic with views of the coast. I got on the next bus and continued to Cascais, which is well worth the time, even though it is pretty touristy. I had the great pleasure of meeting one of our forum regulars, Kathryn, who introduced me to vino verde, which is now my preferred table wine. After leaving her, I strolled down the main tourist drag, lined with shops offering very tempting souvenirs. I stopped at a wine shop to try a couple of Portuguese specialties, Ginjinha and madeira. Ginjinha is a liqueur made from a small fruit (berry?) that tastes like sour cherries. It's sweet but not cloying with a hint of spiciness. For some reason, shots are sold in little dark chocolate cups. The ginjinha was yummy, the chocolate, not so much. The second shot, straight, was much better. The madeira reminded me of sweet sherries from Jerez. Then I sstrolled along the sea front to Boca da Inferno (mouth of hell), where the waves crash over the rocks when the seas are rough. There were enough swells to make for good viewing. After making my way back to the center, I found that the last express bus back to Sintra had left long before and I was facing a 1.5 hour slog on the slow bus. Thank goodness for Uber. The fare was about 15 euros and right to my doorstep. I don't know the fare, but the slow bus was about 8 euros from Sintra via Cabo da Roca to Cascais and I had the 10-15 minute walk between the center and the bus/train sstation.
Yesterday, I went to Pena Palace in the morning. Tip - either take a taxi early (plan to be at the entrance well before they open at 9.30 or take a tuktuk. The ride is "exciting" and the drivers pass all the other vehicles lined up to get into the parking areas or drop off tourists. I must have saved over 1/2 an hour by taking the tuktuk. I got there around 10 am with ticket in hand. I quickly bought a ticket for the shuttle bus and got in line and had a short wait - got on the second bus that came along.
Out of space. see below