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Dorie Greenspan's experience on Tram 28 (and Lisbon chocolate cake:)

Aside from the underlying theft, this wonderful story got me even more excited for our first Portugal trip next March. Enjoy! And please weigh in - - - should I avoid this tram, or just be ultra-careful (use money belt etc.)? We're pretty savvy travelers, but I'm sure Dorie is too!

https://www.nytimes.com/2019/10/30/magazine/chocolate-cake-lisbon-recipe.html

Posted by
1421 posts

Great article! Can't recall which tram # we were on, but we were warned by our RS guide to be aware and use the usual precautions. She recommended if carrying a backpack to wear it in front. I remember she came up with a code word if she suspected a pickpocket on the tram. She said "Pizza." ;) I wouldn't hesitate using the public transportation. That said, I need to get the ingredients for the Chocolate Cake! Muito Obrigada for sharing. Go and eat cake!

Posted by
291 posts

Ha! If ever I get to Lisbon, I'm ALSO going to take that naughty tram, just to spite that concierge. I looked it up further, and it looks so rattletrap and quaint, and cute. I bet Portugal is nice in October and November. Oh my, that cake!

Posted by
5001 posts

We took that tram. Watched a hand go in someone’s pocket, take wallet, and jump off! We loved Portugal including Lisbon!

Posted by
839 posts

No, don’t avoid the tram, metro, or just walking around in the touristy areas where the professional pickpockets lurk. They also frequent Tram 15 that goes to Belem.

I’ve lived here for four years and, thankfully, have escaped the pickpockets - so far! Use a crossbody handbag that zips and keep your hand on it when you are on the metro, trams and walking in crowds. Lisbon is no worse than most large European cities. This is just the one where Dorie was unlucky. Remember, Rick himself was the victim of a pickpocket this year. I can’t remember where he was, but it wasn’t Lisbon.

And, yes the cake it quite lovely. There are several other places in town where you can find them. Google it before you come, so you can have it more than once!

Posted by
248 posts

The only thing I have to add for the tram is that it is very busy. We got on it at the first stop in Gracia, early in the am, and rode it to the end in Estrela. In Estrela you have to get off, and I noticed most people just got in line to get back on the tram. Instead, take a look at the cemetery there. And there are great views of the bridges and river. Then we walked back and enjoyed the garden in Estrela..

Posted by
30 posts

Wonderful tips. Thanks all. I'm looking forward to the trams and chocolate cake - - to say the least!

Posted by
47 posts

We just got back from Portugal yesterday! We hopped on the tram for a minute, but it was not going where we needed to go, so we got off. I will say that it was extremely crowded, and I can see how people get pick-pocketed. We did the Lisbon walking tours in the RS Guidebook and those got us a really great tour of the city as well. From the limited time we were on the tram, it's a very raggedy so if you are sensitive to rough rides, I would not recommend it. I'm not a huge fan of really crowded spaces, so I was glad to get off the tram.