“Back Roads” Portugal

A couple years ago we stayed at Parador Casa da Ínsua in Penalva do Castelo and used it to visit Lamego and Viseu. The hotel itself is a 18th century house/palace and has an on-site museum. Cheese is also made there. The main site in Viseu is the cathedral. In Lamego we enjoyed walking the 600 steps up to Nossa Sra. dos Remédios, a small church. When we were there there were festivals taking place so it was pretty crowded.

Further east is Monsanto, a village built on boulders. Some streets are steep going from the parking area up to the castle. Parts of the movie House of the Dragon were filmed in the village.

If you had the time, an hour or so east, in Spain, is Coria (nice to walk around) and the walled town of Galisteo. The unique aspect of the city wall you can walk along is it is made from river stone rather than large stone blocks. Heading north from there Plasencia, Béjar, Hervás, and the abandoned town of Granadilla make for nice stops. From Béjar one can head back into Portugal by Ciudad Rodrigo. En route, ensure you stop in Mogarraz and La Alberca. Both villages are on Spain’s list of prettiest villages. Other than Plasencia you will come across very few, in any, other tourists.

A logical order for the places I mentioned would be Monsanto, Spain, then Penalva de Castelo, Viseu and Lamego.

You might take a look at Julie Dawn Fox ‘s article on the 12 Historic Villages of Portugal. They are in the northeastern part of the country. The villages are mostly small but very unique. From Castelo Rodrigo, it’s possible to do a visit to the Coa Valley. I enjoyed the trip using mostly her itinerary a few years ago.

Thank you! These are great suggestions…so excited to start planning!!!