It looks like, by lucky happenstance, we will be in Porto on 23-24 June which I understand is a big celebration day. We are staying in the Ribeira. I would love some local advice about what to expect and look for, where to find the sardines, where to be, and where not to be. It sounds like an exciting time! Thanks in advance.
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Washington, DC USA
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I was in Porto for Sao Joao in 2019, also by chance. It was great fun! and a highlight of my trip. The celebration is the evening into past midnight hours on the 23rd. On a walking tour a couple days before, the guide had given his strong opinion of where to go and not go for Sao Joao, suggesting traditional neighborhoods such as Vitoria (where my B&B was) and Miragaia (where we were having coffee when we got this information) as "authentic." Either of these would be a 10-15 minute walk from Ribeira. I don't remember which ones he claimed were "inauthentice" and touristy to avoid. I mostly walked around Vitoria where I was staying and down to Ribera and back. I think Ribeira is where the fireworks are and crowds to watch them. I remember seeing very long lines for portapotties.
The grilled sardines and other food and drink were everywhere. On the more commerical streets, many restaurants set up stands on the street. In the residential older neighborhood where I was, families had tables and chairs outside up and down the street, grilling their own but with numbers of people selling sardines and beer at very low prices. At the Virtudes lookout area in Vitoria one of the bars was roasting a whole pig outdoors and slicing off meat for sandwiches. There was live music and dancing on some streets. Lots of families with children were out celebrating so the crowds in the neighborhood felt very friendly and safe to me.
Note that many restaurants, shops, most museums were closed the next day. However, the port lodges in Gaia were open so that was something to do the next day, the 24th.