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10 Nights in Portugal - where to spend our time

Hello. I've skimmed Rick Steves' guidebook and forum posts, but would be grateful for suggestions for our particular trip. I'm interested in ideas on how to allocate our first trip to Portugal - what cities/towns and how much time in each. Thank you!

Basics
We'll be visiting Portugal in September, staying 10 nights, starting and ending in Lisbon (arriving late morning on a Wednesday and departing early afternoon on a Saturday).

More
- Lisbon, Porto, probably Coimbra, and maybe Nazaré are of interest
- We plan to skip the Algarve, as we get a fair amount of beach time already
- We live near wine regions, but would consider a day trip to the Douro Valley (either way, looking forward to Portugal wine/port!)
- We find that we enjoy an extra half to full day beyond those listed in Rick Steves' guides for major destinations like Lisbon
- Our preference is to NOT drive, but open to it
- We are in our 50s, in good health, and love to walk towns and cities
- We enjoy good food and drinks
- Like learning about history, visiting museums, old buildings, Rick's walking audio tours...but we also like sitting at a cafe
- We mostly like to explore on our own, but happy to pay for half or full day guided tours too

Posted by
16 posts

We are in Portugal now, so can only partially answer. However, loved Sintra (spent 2 nights). Lots of walking ( we like to hike). We did go to Porto for two nights, but felt that was too much. Very touristy and the sights were ok. Went Taylor and stock exchange. Did the food an wine tour as well. We did rent a car and drove to the Douro Valley. Stayed at Casa do Visconde de Chanceleiros. This place is fabulous and wished we could have stayed more than two nights. Hiking around and the dinners were excellent. Tried Quinta de la Rosa restaurant, and wish we had just stayed at our place. Hope this little bit helps. Uber has been fantastic in the cities.

Posted by
16 posts

@ptgal Love the on the ground reporting! Seems like we may limit our time in Porto. Casa do Visconde de Chanceleiros looks amazing :-)

Posted by
442 posts

RobC,

I just returned 5 days ago from the RS Portugal tour. I loved Portugal!!! Our outstanding tour guide was Cristina Duarte, who is on the RS Portugal podcasts and I think on his Portugal program.

Comments:
-Each person's preferences are different. I personally do not like big crowds, and for that reason I chose not to see Sintra before the tour began. Instead I saw the Castelo de Sao Jorge in Lisbon then walked down through the Alfama neighborhood, which left the afternoon for doing other things.
-Lisbon Tile museum - if this is of interest to you, it's well worth going. I doubt there's another museum like it anywhere. I went by local bus, but my fellow tour members rode taxis there....then said they returned by taxi (getting a ride when taxis dropped off passengers at the museum).

-Lisbon has become popular with tourists, but I still found it far less touristed than, say, Rome in the summer. The biggest touristy places are:
a. Tram 28 - Having read how long the lines are for Tram 28, I rode Tram 12 instead. I got on Tram 12 at its starting point at Martin Moniz. This stop is also the starting point for Tram 28. I heard a woman say she'd been in line an hour to get on Tram 28. I was able to go to the front of all the people waiting bc no one else was waiting for Tram 12. There was a helpful transit employee at the Martin Moniz stop, and he advised me that Tram 12 is not currently doing its normal circular route bc tram lines are torn up around Comercio; that was OK with me; I rode for about 15 minutes then got off. My RS tour guide's opinion was that the Tram 28 experience is overrated. I didn't hear anyone on our tour talk about riding Tram 28.
b. Elevator Santa Justa - long line to go up. I think it's fun to see and take a photo of it, but I chose not to wait in line and go up it. (In contrast, I really enjoyed riding the Funicular Gloria (with no wait) to see the São Pedro de Alcântara Miradouro (overlook))
c. Jeronimos Monastery in Belem - our tour guide said it's the most popular tourist site in Lisbon, but I do think it's very much worth seeing. Recommend you get there as early as possible.
-It is lovely to stroll Lisbon's Avenida de Liberdade

Douro Valley - I have never made a priority of visiting wine regions. However, the Douro Valley has lovely scenery, which I enjoyed immensely.

Coimbra - the sections of the University which were once a royal palace are stunning. The library is opulent and so worth seeing even for the 10 minutes permitted. Due to rain, didn't see the botanical gardens.

Nazare - our tour group had several hours on our own at Nazare. I (and others) thought it was overrated; we agreed it was the one stop we'd have deducted from the tour. Lots of touristy shops and restaurants along the waterfront. Also...the funicular to Sitio was not running. The tour addressed this problem by the tour bus driving us to Sitio; we had 30 min. of free time, then some of us rode the tour bus down to Nazare whereas others walked down the steps. Maybe there's a local bus connecting Nazare and Sitio. If you want to go to Nazare and Sitio, I recommend you research whether the funicular is not operating all summer/whether there's a local bus.

Porto - My time there was shortened bc I left the tour a day early to return home for a family wedding. Still, I think I can fairly say I enjoyed it but prefer Lisbon. I had 2 pretty hair raising taxi rides there. Also, be prepared for alot of construction. I have friends who visited Portugal on their own with a rental car in 2022; they had told me driving in/out of Porto was a challenge (even though they didn't use their car while in Porto). When I saw them today, the first thing I said was, "I can't believe you drove in Porto!!!" So, if for example you consider renting a car in Porto to drive to the Douro Valley, I'd recommend picking up the car at the airport and avoiding driving in Porto itself at all costs.

Posted by
16 posts

@Elizabeth Thanks for so many great details and tips. Also, it's so nice to have up-to-date info!

Posted by
19 posts

Hello,
My wife and I spent a week in Portugal a few years ago. We didn’t have a car, and took trains everywhere. We liked Porto but found the town of Braga, about an hour north of Porto, more interesting. There was an ancient Roman excavation, a lively, university, ambience, and some of the best food we had. It wasn’t covered in Ricks guidebooks, so we used Lonely Planet. I liked it better than Coimbra, if only because there were no other tourists that I noticed.

Posted by
16 posts

@stephengilbert Thanks for the tip. We are now booked for Coimbra, but will look into Braga!

Posted by
16 posts

Update: we've booked the basics - thanks to those that replied, the many helpful posts on other threads, and of course Rick's guidebook! For those that are curious, here's our basic plan (with all travel in Portugal via train)

  • Lisbon 3 nights
  • Coimbra 1 night
  • Porto 3 nights (one day trip to Douro valley via train)
  • Lisbon 3 nights

Currently working on an itinerary of things to do while there :-)