Just returned yesterday from a week in Krakow. It was fabulous, the best city in Europe. I didn't have a bad meal there either. In fact, all the food was very, very good and we enjoyed almost every traditional Polish meal that had been recommended. Be sure to eat at a milk bar. We ate at one on Sunday and both had goulash over dumplings with three kinds of coleslaw and bottled water and the entire meal was about $10 for two. We had just come from Scandinavia where we had a similar meal for $100 for two.
The Schindler Museum is so much more than Schindler. It is extremely well done and gives you a very moving and comprehensive multimedia tour (in English) about the Nazi occupation from 1939-46. A comprehensive ticket will also get you into the Eagle Pharmacy nearby.
Krakow is easy for tourists with street names where they should be. Good maps all around the city.
We went for a day trip with a driver to the salt mines (fabulous) and a trip to the Vistula Ethnographic Park. This museum has many old wooden structures (homes, tavern, church, etc) and objects to see how Poles lived in the 1800's. This entire adventure, including admission for two was about 560 zl. (less than $200). You get to see the lovely Polish countryside this way. We also saw a few more wooden churches on this tour.
The main square and old town was so festive with easy to manage crowds of friendly people enjoying the lovely weather. Lots of churches and sites and great places to eat and shop.
We stayed in Kazimierz and it was a 10-15 min walk to the main square. We enjoyed visiting the Jewish sites and some of the restaurants. One of the best was just about 5-10 mins. from our hotel and it was crowded. No need to have someone standing at the entrance to entice you to enter.
I can highly recommend two drivers: the "Rick Steve's famous Andrew Durman" or a very nice young fellow who we found at the last minute, Bart Novak. His email is Noowakbartlomiej@gmail.com. He is the one who did the salt mine and museum day.
Andrew was booked months in advance and did some contacting of possible relatives in the Zawoja area. What a fabulous day we had with him. Locals with our same name invited us into their homes, went to find possible relatives with us in Andrew's car and made the day so warm and hospitable. It is a stunningly gorgeous region. Andrew worked so hard for us and was kind and charming. I felt like he was our cousin when we left. Rick's Steve's praise is so very well deserved.
One thing that I would NOT recommend is a free walking tour. We did not do one, but I believe you just see the outsides of many of the places if there is any entrance fee. Your time is too valuable to just do that, although they seem to offer a good service. This was just my observation. If we had gone on one, we would have wanted to retrace many of our footsteps to go inside where the wonder experiences really are! Krakow is easy enough to do on your own. Take Rick's book along and do your homework first.
I can't say enough good things about Krakow!