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Walbrzych / Ksiaz Castle

I’m flying into Wroclaw in a few weeks for a solo trip indulging myself to a “serendipity “ trip. That’s what I call it when I only have where I fly into (Wroclaw) and out of (Budapest) and my first night hotel booked, letting serendipity take care of everything else. (That kind of travel makes my husband insane but I thrive on it so we adjust. Don’t worry, he will happily be cruising Alaska while I’m away.) I love researching my options, travel connections and having a rough draft before I leave then looking back at it when I get home. It’s lead to some of my favorite destinations not given a lot write up like Aviero, Portugal, Islay, Scotland or Saverne, France.

With that said, I’m considering a day trip or an overnight from Wroclaw to Walbrzych. I’m interested in Ksiaz Castle, touring the coal mine in Walbrzych and see the Ksiaz Stud Farm. If I’m lucky I’ll stumble on the lost Nazi gold train in the tunnels under Ksiaz Castle too! Has anyone in the forum been to Walbrzych or Ksiaz?

Do I want to drag my backpack with me so I can spend the night at the Castle? I mean where else can I stay at a castle for $50/night with breakfast? Or do I just want to day trip it from Wroclaw? My ongoing travel plans are either Berlin or Lodz, Poland. Either destination would require the one hour back track by train to Wroclaw.

(I’m secretly hoping Carlos has been to this area and can give me the down low. Fingers crossed)

Posted by
4180 posts

Hello, sound like a fun trip! Yes indeed I have been in the area, spent 8 days there on a roadtrip back in 2017.

Regarding Walbrzych, I just visited the city, but found it ok, its fairly spread out and its old town is still quite a distance from Książ Castle, around 12 km south of it.

I would either make Książ Castle a day trip from Wroclaw or better yet I'd spend the night in next door Świdnica, which I liked better than Walbrzych, and visit Książ from there. Świdnica also has the 17th century Protestant Church of Peace, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and the biggest timber religious building in Europe. So one could also visit the Church of Peace if staying the night in Świdnica.

Regarding Książ Castle it's an excellent castle in the German Neo-Renaissance tradition with many architectural eye-candy from its various periods of constructions. Just as interesting is the real-life story of the German-Polish Von Pless family who inhabited it and their fight against the Nazis. Książ Castle has 2-3 hotels on site that are located in the castle's next-door annex buildings, as far as I could tell the hotels are not located in the castle itself.

Here's the link to my photo album of the area: https://photos.app.goo.gl/U1z9SUz3E9HsACw47

My home base in the area was Polanica, an old German spa town located in the Sudeten mountain range. Really relaxing place with restorative mineral waters, I had the best pierogi I've ever had in Poland at Villa Polanica, which was the bnb that I stayed in.

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4180 posts

PS if you are looking for a lost Nazi gold train in the tunnels, there is actually a part of the tunnel system, known as Project Riese, that is open for guided tours called the Underground City of Osówka. I went on a tour (they have in English) and it was really interesting but very creepy, definitely a unique site to visit.

Here's the link about it https://www.poland.travel/en/underground-tourist-routes/underground-city-of-osowka-tourist-route

Posted by
4803 posts

Oh, goodness - I want a report when you get back. I should be in the same area in September and had bookmarked the Castle but hadn’t yet seen the Ksiaz Stud Farm. And I almost always look for places like this! Sounds like there is a combined ticket. And one Google review mentioned being able to ride there (if it opens back up after Covid). How cool would that be!

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297 posts

Carlos, you are a peach! I dreamed you’d come through with the information I needed. I’ve followed your Poland advise for some time now. It came in handy planning my first trip to Poland last October. I fell hard for the country then and found myself needing to return. I had heard of Swindica but it wasn’t really on my radar until your reply. I’m traveling via public transit so Polonica may be a bit off easy access for me but spa town is my middle name so I’ll do my research. Ksiaz Castle looks intriguing. They have tours of the underground tunnels there built to hide the gold train so I’ll probably tick that box there. Yeah, the rooms are at the castle but not IN the castle. I guess the caveat is you have access to the castle grounds when the public has gone home. Worth schlepping a backpack and hotel change from Wroclaw, probably not. I’m getting rickety in my golden years.

TravelMom what’s your itinerary? I’ll be sure to post! I love Poland! I’m dying to visit the Polish Arabian Stud farm but unfortunately it is near the eastern boarder and closed to tourism currently. There will be better days and another trip to fulfill that dream. The Ksiaz Stud Farm focuses on the Silesian breed of warmbloods know for there driving, carriage and harness work. Yes, I too seek out anything equine related whilst traveling. (Ha! I finally got to use “whilst” in a sentence! In the states we NEVER use that. Then I hear some Brit fling it about likes it’s perfectly normal and I think, “how brilliant is that? I’ve got to use that word in sentence” Well pin a star on me. I finally did it. Whilst, whilst, whilst….
Some days I try to celebrate the little wins.

Posted by
4180 posts

Happy to help, looks like its shaping up to be a fine trip!

This region, Silesia, is definitely off the radar for American tourists in a country that is off the radar on its own. The landscape of Silesia is dotted with forgotten medieval villages, baroque spa towns, and grand old castles.

This region has been at the center of a constant tug-of-war since the middle ages, between the Germans, the Poles, the Czechs, and the Austrians, each leaving traces of their culture. Silesia was mostly spared from the destruction of WWII, as most of the fighting went north, so most of the historical buildings remain intact.

I've been in the area twice before and plan to spend my upcoming trip to Poland mainly in the Silesian Beskid Mountains this time, where Czechia, Poland, Slovakia meet. Many local Poles prefer this area to Zakopane, which has since become quite touristy.

Posted by
4803 posts

I am am starting in Gdansk and moving south - also with help from Carlos (and others)! 5 nights Gdansk, 3 nights Torun, 4 nights Warsaw, 3 nights Wrocław, 6 nights Silesia/Klodzko Valley, 7 nights Krakow - before following you down into Hungary. Lol!

My 6 nights in this area are the only ones I don’t have booked yet - still deciding where I want to base, but I WILL rent a car for this part. I stole a night from Warsaw (original plan) to add here. And all things are changeable. But at this moment, this area and Krakow are the 2 places calling my name the most. I had wanted to spend some time in Slovakia (and it’s still possible) but it got a little more complicated - so it will probably be another trip.

P.S. I love whilst!

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4180 posts

6 nights Silesia/Klodzko Valley

Hurray! The Kłodzko Valley is one of Poland's best kept secrets, one feels like in a Brothers Grimm fairy tale (this is where one can find the real town of Frankenstein). This is also where they filmed some of the recent Chronicles of Narnia movies.

This is a good Polish documentary of the Kłodzko Valley for the visuals alone - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2ZmysDvgCiE&ab_channel=W%C4%99drowneMotyle

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4803 posts

Ah, Carlos, you are so good at making it sound just like where I want to spend a week (or more). Next step: find my car rental. :)