Lee,
I had a great museum guide, though she was included as part of a tour. Our guide was related to a Polish inmate. The inmate, who was our guide's uncle, had been imprisoned in Auschwitz because he had committed a "crime". Germans saw the man, who was a baker, give bread to starving Jews. After the camp was liberated, the man, who was in his 20s, was free. His hair was steel gray, the guide told us, because of exhaustion and the brutality of the camp. The man died in his 30s. It was incredible to get a tour from someone who had a connection to the camp.
However, you mention that you like to read plaques and use audio-visual aids. I am the same way. Auschwitz 1 has a lot of these -- plaques, AV machinery, displays, artifacts -- and they are well done. We were rushed through this portion of our visit. I wish I could have spent more time in that part of the site. You'll notice I'm from Chicago. I saw the registration card in a display case for a prisoner from Chicago and photographed it. I was so overwhelmed to learn that a Chicagoan had been an Auschwitz prisoner that I emailed researchers with the museum to ask a couple questions. Among other things, they told me that 27 natives of Chicago were prisoners of Auschwitz. The tentacles of Auschwitz reached very far indeed.
The tour, which started in Krakow, was organized by Krakville Tours (www.krakville.com). They drove us the 80 or so miles west to Auschwitz, and the guide at the museum was included. You'll see storefronts with the Krakville name in Krakow if you go there.
Two elements of the visit stick out in my mind. In Auschwitz 1, there is a building, which most tours stop at, with a wall of inmate photographs. These have information about the person in the photo, including who he or she was, town of origin and how long the person lived. Most survived a couple days. It was difficult to see because there it wasn't just names. I saw the faces, too.
The other part I'll never forget is the dividing platform at Auschwitz-Birkenau. There a Nazi doctor stood to evaluate each prisoner. If he pointed to the right, the prisoner was sentenced to death and trudged unknowingly to a gas chamber. If the doctor pointed left, the person would live a bit longer but be worked to death.
It was on that spot that families from all over Europe were torn apart forever, never to see each other again. It was impossible for me not to be moved as I stood on the dividing platform.
I have my own connection to Auschwitz. My dad served in World War II, but he was on a U.S. Navy destroyer in the Pacific Ocean. Nevertheless, I thought about my dad as I walked through Auschwitz.