If you had 8 days in late September, early October in Poland to spend between Gdansk, Warsaw and Krakow, how would you spend them?
We have reward flights that I can’t change, so I only have 8 nights for the Poland part of the itinerary.
Option one:
Warsaw-4 nights
Krakow-4 nights
Option two:
Gdansk-2 nights
Warsaw-3 nights
Krakow-3 nights
We are most interested in WW II and Polish history museums and food tours. We will not be doing the camps or the salt mine.
Since you don’t want to visit either Auschwitz or the salt mines, four nights in Krakow is probably too much. And as you are most interested in WWII and Polish history museums, both Warsaw and Gdansk are a must. Gdansk has two wonderful museums where you can spend many hours in each - one focuses on WWII and the other on the Solidarity movement. Warsaw has the terrific museum focusing on 1000 years of Jewish life in Poland as well as a great museum about the Polish uprising against the Nazis. (I think you can find good food tours anywhere!)
So you might want to change your options to either splitting your time between Warsaw and Gdansk, or an itinerary with 3 nights in Gdansk and 2 in Krakow.
We were in Krakow for four nights. We did not go to the salt mine. My husband did go to Auschwitz, I did not. Instead I spent more time in Kazimierz. I visited the cemeteries and the folk (ethnographic) museum (excellent, showed examples of clothing and homes over the years) and had a nice, leisurely lunch on the square at the restaurant we had visited the night before (Hamsa). We spent two nights in Warsaw and felt that was enough. It is a new city with a rebuilt historic quarter. LOVED, LOVED, LOVED Gdansk and Krakow. We did go to a number of other smaller towns that we really enjoyed, but you don't have time for them. We were in Gdansk 3 nights and that was not enough. The WWII museum and the Solidarity museum in the shipyard are absolutely excellent and the WWII museum takes an entire day. There are many historic churches and we did the RS walking tour of Gdansk.
Here is a link to our trip report:
https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/trip-reports/poland-trip-report
Here's a trip report:
https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/trip-reports/four-cities-in-poland-2019
If WWII (sans German death camps) and more general Polish history are your top priorities my recommendations would be:
3 nights Gdańsk - Polish Solidarity Museum, Museum of the Second World War, Westerplatte, and day trip to Malbork Castle (on the way to Warsaw)
2 nights Warsaw - The Warsaw Uprising Museum, POLIN Museum, Eat Polska food tour
3 nights Kraków - Wawel Castle, Czartoryski Museum, Kazimierz Food Tour, and day trip to Pszczyna Palace/Town (if you want culture/history) or day trip to Zakopane (if you want nature)
It's a painful decision you're facing. There are far too many sights related to your interests in those three cities to cover in the time you have. It kind of doesn't matter how you divvy up your time--you'll have a great and illuminating trip and you'll have to skip some things no matter what your choice. However, I'd tend to agree that if you don't want to take a side trip from Krakow, you might want to shift a night from Krakow to Gsansk in Option Two, just because of the sheer size of the two major museums in Gdansk.
I'll also point out that, though the major museums in the three cities have been mentioned, Warsaw in particular has a lot of additional smaller museums related to WWII and the Cold War. On the other hand, there's definitely some overlapping coverage if you try to see everything, as I did.
Your interests suggest Gdansk and Warsaw over Krakow. So I would suggest 3 - 3 - 2.
It would be difficult to do both the WWII and Solidarity museums in the same day, so you need the time in Gdansk. Focus on seafood here.
The thing to keep in mind regarding Warsaw is the fact that it's gone from the ruins after WWII to the vibrant metropolis it is today - that's historical context as opposed to actual sites. Plus you would need time to experience the food scene in Warsaw.
You might consider staying in Kazimierz rather than the old town in Krakow for a more authentic experience and to be closer to the food scene there. The old town is only 10 minutes away via tram. The ethnographic museum in Kazimierz is worthwhile.
Train travel is fast between the cities, and first class is an excellent value.
Well, I thought I’d update and report that I was able to change my rewards flight and am now in Poland for a more reasonable 10 nights. Right now I’m scheduling:
Gdansk - 3 Hilton (I’m worried about noise in Gdańsk, many hotel reviews mention how noisy it is)
Warsaw - 3 Chopin Boutique
Krakow - 4 Metropolitan Boutique Hotel
This should give us more time for food tours and museum visits.
Anyone stayed at these hotels? Feedback?
Of the three stops, which would benefit most from a private guide? Any guide recommendations?
We were in Poland in the fall of 2021. We stayed 2 nights at the Chopin in Warsaw. Breakfast was great. Rooms were large and very tidy. Our room had a coffee maker but no convenient outlet or place to put it. Their office is not convenient to the entrance thus rarely was someone in the lobby for questions.
In Gdansk we stayed at and enjoyed the Celestin Residence. I don't recall that there was a breakfast. We were in the "attic" with AC and lovely views. The location was quiet. If you have any interest in a day trip to Malbork you are short time in Gdansk unless you plan to do Malbork on your way to Warsaw which is a good option.
In Krakow we stayed at Hotel Wielopole. Good price for us. It was convenient to old town and trolley. Excellent breakfast.
We didn't do any guided tours and felt we had enough information to be our own guides. Maybe a guided tour in the old town area of Krakow or the Jewish quarter would add to the experience.
Of the three stops, which would benefit most from a private guide?
Because the city is so large and the food scene so varied, you might consider a food tour in Warsaw.
Re hotels: I just stayed at the Chopin in Warsaw - room was immense, had a separate kitchenette area [no trouble boiling water] and quite clean and comfortable. It is a bit funky - not a business hotel experience. There was always someone downstairs at the desk. And great location. Be sure to attend the musical soiree one evening.
In Gdansk I stayed at Hotel Admiral, which is quite close to the Hilton - you will be right on the water, and away from the touristic center. I found the area extremely quiet, although lively during the day due to foot traffic on the promenade along the water..
Thanks for the feedback!
