With the exception of the rather humdrum Bergen-Voss rail segment, the components of the Norway-in-a-Nutshell route are very scenic and are therefore worth completing. The include (approaching from Bergen):
- Voss-Gudvangen bus (pay driver)
- Gudvangen-Flam ferry on Naeroyfjord (tickets from NorwaysBest.com)
- Flamsbana train Flam-Myrdal (buy as part of through-ticket to Oslo
- Myrdal-Oslo train (tickets from vy.no, same as for the Bergen-Voss train)
The Myrdal-Oslo train tickets can be considerably cheaper purchased well in advance, and individual trains do sell out (I'd guess not terribly far in advance but cannot guarantee that). As far as I know, the Flamsbana and ferry tickets are rather expensive but don't creep upward in price as the travel date approaches, but perhaps someone else has different information.
All those scenic transportation links are on the south side of the Sognefjord, as are Flam and Voss. Balestrand is said to be quite attractive but is on the north side of the fjord, so you'd need to explore ferry schedules across the fjord before committing to staying there. The express boat to/from Bergen stops at Balestrand and Flam but runs only once or twice a day. I think getting across the fjord via other ferries would be difficult if not impossible if you didn't have a car, because I don't think those ferries depart from Flam or (nearby) Aurland.
Flam is a rather plain town in a magnificent, fjord-side setting that on many days is spoiled by the presence of a hulking cruise ship. I never saw many people at all in Flam; clearly the cruisers piled onto smaller boats or tour buses and left town quickly.
Voss isn't located on a fjord, but it's in an area that I've read has a variety of options for outdoor activities (not my thing, so I haven't researched that). If money is a concern, check prices for everything before building your trip around any particular activity. Just about everything in Norway is expensive, even buses running from town to town.
The folks who've stayed in Balestrand have really enjoyed it, but it's easier to take full advantage of that less-touristy area if you have a rental car. Most of the buses in the fjord area run extremely infrequently, sometimes just once a day. Rick's guidebook specifically says staying in Balestrand isn't recommended unless you have at least 2 or 3 nights.
Lodging in that (fjord) area is limited, pricey and in high demand. I think June isn't quite as bad as July-August, but pickings are probably already slim in Flam (the most convenient place to stay without a car). I think Voss might be easier, and for variety of outdoor activities it might well be better for you. I'd recommend booking something cancellable immediately and then continuing your research if you want to. Otherwise, you may find yourself with few choices, all of them poorly located or expensive. If you decide to rent a car, there will be more-rural options available at lower prices, and those of us who depend on public transportation will thank you very much for not taking one of the few rooms available in Flam!
There's not a great deal of traffic on the Norway forum here. It wouldn't be an impossible task to scroll back through the postings, looking for thread titles about visiting the fjord area. You'll find a few trip reports from people who rented cars and drove around the area north of the Sognefjord.
