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Trip report of 5 quick days in Norway (many thanks to the forum!)

My son Bjorn and I took a very brief introductory trip to Norway (July 14-19, 2024) at the end of a trip to Finland where Bjorn was playing in the Helsinki Cup soccer/football tournament with his club team from Duluth, Minnesota, USA. I would love for the trip to have been longer, but with a family of six (with four kids at home) and with my wife minding the fort back in Minnesota, this was as long as was feasible.

My mother in law, Mardee, who is part of this forum, helped us hugely in organizing this trip, and she in turn received help from many others on this forum. This report is a small return on that help.

OSLO: We arrived in Oslo on July 14 on a flight from Helsinki and took the Flytoget train from the airport to the center–expensive, but very convenient. Mardee had booked us a hotel, the Thon Hotel Opera, which was reportedly near the railway station. It turns out it was quite literally right next to the railway station–couldn’t have been easier–and very quiet and comfortable to boot. It was also directly across from the harbor and very near to the center of town and the many attractions there. We had planned on jumping on a T-bane out to the famous Holmenkollen ski venue to visit the ski museum there and to ride the zipline from the top of the ski jump there, but it was raining in Oslo, as I believe it often does in summer, and the zipline was closed, so we changed plans.

We bought an Oslo Pass at the tourist office at the railway station which ended up paying for all of our transportation and all of our admissions for the rest of the day. After checking into our hotel, and dropping our luggage, we walked along the harbor and caught the Bygdoy ferry at Radhusbrygga using our Oslo Pass. We got off at the main dock for the museums and spent several hours exploring the incredibly interesting Fram Museum of polar exploration. The museum focuses on Norway’s substantial role in exploration of the poles, and especially the roles of explorers Fridjof Nansen and Roald Amundsen.

The highlights of the museum (if I have to pick) are the two legendary ships Fram and Gjoa, which carried the explorers to the poles. After several hours in the museum, my 14-year-old had had enough, though I could have spent several more hours. We retraced our steps on the ferry back to the center where we took the brief walk to the National Museum (covered again by our Oslo Pass). Once again, a prevailing theme, the museum stamina of a 14-year-old was a limiting factor. I shepherded him through the galleries containing the most famous version of Munch’s The Scream and some of his other works, at which point I released him to walk back to our hotel on his own. Oslo felt very safe, and as he had developed considerable confidence navigating Helsinki and Tallinn, Estonia on his own, I felt good about his ability to do this.

I continued exploring the National Museum for a bit more and then a brief visit to the Nobel Peace Center museum before a circuitous walk back to the hotel via the Royal Palace. The evening was taken up with dinner at a sports bar near our hotel where we conversed with a young Somali-Norwegian couple at an adjoining table about the Spain-England European football/soccer championship game that evening. We watched the match in our hotel room, and cheered Spain on to victory.

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I'm replying with more of the Trip Report here because John is a first-time poster and he cannot post a reply for some reason.

MORGEDAL: The next day, we picked up our rental car at the Oslo Airport and made the three hour drive to Morgedal, a small town in the Telemark region where my great-grandfather Bjorgulv immigrated from in the late 1800s. We made an impromptu stop at the Heddal stave church, the largest in Norway, that we stumbled upon during the drive. We stayed at a lovely little rustic cabin (with a grass roof) in Morgedal right across the road from my distant cousin Halvor and his wife Jorunn. We visited Halvor and Jorunn at their home, enjoying some of the wild strawberries they had picked, then went to dinner with them at the Morgedal Hotel, where we ordered a wonderful Norwegian smorgasbord with countless varieties of fish, crayfish, reindeer meatballs, and several items of what I would call Jello mold. Theirs is much better!

The next day I got up early and hiked to the tiny hilltop farmhouse that was the birthplace of Norwegian ski pioneer Sondre Norheim. The Winter Olympic torch was lit there for the 1952, 56, and 94 Olympics. We had freshly baked apple muffins at the cafe of the Norsk Skieventyr museum of Norwegian skiing. Morgedal claims to be the place where the Telemark ski binding and the Telemark turn were invented.

VOSS: After Morgedal, we drove four hours to Voss through the incredibly (and yet typically) scenic land of southwestern Norway. Mountains, glaciers, lakes, fjords, farms, were all in view throughout the day. Voss is a center of Norwegian adventure sports, reminiscent in some ways of Moab, Utah, or Jackson Hole, Wyoming. We stayed in a private room at the Voss Hostel, on the lovely shore of Vangsvatnet Lake. After checking in, we walked to the town center where we sat at the sheltered outdoor tables of Tro Bror microbrewery in the rain and ate (surprisingly) good burritos from a food truck on the square. We finished the day with a chilly but gorgeous swim in Vangsvatnet lake just behind the hostel. 10 PM, but full daylight!

GUDVANGEN: The next day we drove to Gudvangen, 45 minutes away, through lovely scenic landscapes, but even more so as we entered the Naerofjord region. Narrow, steep, topped with snow. Incredible. We had booked a half day sea kayak paddle tour in the fjord (on MarkK’s recommendation) and were not disappointed. The tour company was called Fjordtours and was really wonderful. Our guide was a Netherlands-born New Zealander named Hiyo (spelling may be incorrect). He was very competent and informative with his paddle, his stories, and his cooking. We had a delicious shore lunch of vegetarian burritos (burritos again in Norway!) while looking up at the impossibly steep walls of the fjord, the snow at the top, and the lovely villages on the shore.

BERGEN: After the paddle, we drove two hours to Bergen, passing many strawberry fields and sweet cherry orchards along the way (and stopping to sample both fruits, which were delicious!). Bergen is as lovely as advertised, especially the bustling medieval harborfront of Bryggen where we stayed at the lovely Thon Hotel Orion. We ate seafood at a harborfront cafe, mere feet from the salt water and then took the Floibanen funicular railway up to the hilltop for the spectacular views of the city and the sea.

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Back to OSLO: The next day we did the lovely but long (over seven hours) drive back to the Radisson Blu Airport Hotel in Oslo, as we had an early flight the next day. Bjorn and I agreed that the trip was a wonderful whirlwind introduction to southwestern Norway, but in retrospect, we both wished we could have stayed more than one night in places and covered less ground. Bergen was lovely (and worthy of another visit), but we got there too late and had to leave too early to really explore it. Highlights, if I am pressed, would have to be Morgedal for its personal and familial connection, meeting the wonderful Halvor and Jorunn, and the kayak paddle tour of the Naerofjord out of Gudvangen.

Many thanks to Mardee, MarkK, mnannie, Kenko and all others on the Rick Steves’ forum for their invaluable help in organizing this trip.

Posted by
3141 posts

Hi John. Thanks for taking the time to report back on your trip. It sounds like you and your son had a great time. I’m just starting to think about adding Norway to one of my 2026 trips so this report is very helpful.

Posted by
2059 posts

Hi John, Thank you for your great trip report. The more of Norway one gets to see — the more you want to see- it’s that beautiful!

Posted by
2655 posts

Thank you so much for sharing! I actually leave tomorrow morning for 10 days in Norway. I have been once before, back in 2015, but that was a very short trip. We too are doing a kayaking half day trip this time. Hope the weather holds, but if not, we won't melt;). We plan to use the Flytoget train to get to our Thon hotel in Oslo. Any tips for that?

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887 posts

John, thanks for your report! Love reading about what worked and what you thought didn’t work on your itinerary. Very helpful

Posted by
5 posts

The Flytoget is easy. You can buy it out of the machine and just follow the signs to the correct platform. Very slick.

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I will add, though, about the flytoget that we arrived early before the tourist kiosk was open and we did some fumbling around before we found the ticket machines. I'm sure we could have asked anyone--all Norwegians (at least in the cities)--seem to speak excellent English. If you're at Thon Opera, it's right at the Central Railway Station where you get off. If not that one, you may have to find transport or walk to your Thon hotel.

Posted by
2655 posts

Thank you! We are at a different Thon, but it is only a few blocks away. We are staying at the same one we stayed at back in 2015.

Posted by
6998 posts

Apart from Flytoget there are also regular trains from the airport to central Oslo, they are a few minutes slower but a lot cheaper.

Posted by
1598 posts

Thank you John for that great report. What a lovely trip and what a memorable visit for your son!

Posted by
3020 posts

What a great report which will help other travelers. Thank you both!

Posted by
10236 posts

Thank you John for your trip report. I love Norway and can't wait to get back. Love that you had a good experience with your son. And getting to go meet family is so cool !

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5 posts

Thanks to all for your responses. I hope the report can help someone. If you're going to Norway, Morgedal, in Telemark, is really worth a visit. It's lovely and does not have very many tourists compared with other places we visited. There is a great restaurant there run by an Australian-Norwegian couple called Bjaaland Bygderestaurant. She is from Tasmania and he is from Morgedal. The same couple also run a microbrewery. There is also a great ski museum, Norsk Skieventyr, and you can hike to the tiny farmhouse above town, called Overbo, which is the birthplace of Norwegian ski pioneer Sondre Norheim, where the Olympic torch was lit for the 1952 (Oslo), 1960 (Olympic Valley), and 1994 (Lillehammer) Winter Olympics. There is lodging available at the Morgedal Hotel, or there is also a nice little grass roofed rustic cabin that you can rent at Morgedal Camping.

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780 posts

Apart from Flytoget there are also regular trains from the airport to central Oslo, they are a few minutes slower but a lot cheaper.

Flytoget might have more trains an hour, but for us that wasn't enough of a concern to take it instead of the regular train. When we checked the prices, Flytoget was double the cost for us.

John and Mardee, thanks for the report! I'm glad you made it to Morgedal! The ski museum was #1 on our list of things to see there, but it closed for the season the weekend before we got there.

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@ mnannie
Re: "John and Mardee, thanks for the report! I'm glad you made it to Morgedal! The ski museum was #1 on our list of things to see there, but it closed for the season the weekend before we got there."

Morgedal was wonderful. I'm really glad we went. We had contemplated crossing it off our itinerary in favor of more spectacular sites, but am really glad we didn't. The family connection was one part of that, but the off the beaten path aspect also enhanced it for us. The ski museum was really cool. I could have spent hours there, but we had miles to go before we slept. Sorry that didn't work out for you. I didn't realize that they closed for the autumn/Winter/early spring season until you mentioned it.