Please sign in to post.

Norway in a Nutshell - clockwise or counterclockwise, does it matter?

We are staying in Bergen this July and have a whole day for the Norway in a Nutshell circle. Nice to have no luggage and be able to leave/come back whatever time works.

Option 1: start in Bergen with an early (6:28 am) train to Myrdal and take the first train (8:17 am) to Flam; explore Flam, shuttle bus to Aurland, Otternes; before taking the 3 pm boat from Flam to Gudvangen, then bus to Voss and train back to Bergen.

Option 2: start in Bergen get to Gudvangen in time to take the 9 am boat to Aurland, explore, shuttle bus to Otternes, walk to Flam and then take the 5:10 pm train Flam to Myrdal before taking the train back to Bergen.

Pros/Cons? Seems like Option 1 the train to Flam will not as crowded, but no idea what the fjords will be like in the afternoon -- or is it better to get on the water first thing and have a busier train? Things like lighting/temps matter we suppose, but not sure. We understand Flam gets very crowded especially when the cruise boats dock - when is that and what do those passengers do?

Appreciates insights and advice for independent travelers willing/wanting to book on our own. Thank you!

Posted by
11650 posts

I'm pretty certain that there is no public transport from Voss to Gudvangen (or indeed direct from Bergen) in time for the 0900 boat to Aurland/Flam- 0910 is the earliest arrival I'm aware of- puts you on the 1100 to Flam.

Option 1 sounds like a good idea as the 0817 should be a very quiet train. Unless you've come on the sleeper train it's too soon to have got there from Oslo, and too early for any cruise passengers to have come up the line then straight back down. The point about being out on the water early is a valid one. I wonder about taking the 1015 boat from Flam to Gudvangen, the 1245 shuttle bus back to Flam, Otternes in the afternoon, then the 1924 ordinary service bus back from Flam to Voss (connecting train to Bergen).

Or continue on that early service bus to Flam, the 1015 cruise and 1245 shuttle return, then the last evening train from Flam to Bergen at 1825 (it has no Oslo connection, is after the cruise ships have departed so should be a quiet train).

As regards the cruise ships, if this forum is anything to go by, there seem to be huge differences in nationality as to what passengers do. The ships are docked around 0700 to 0800. Certainly among British cruise ships (or the ones I've been on to Norway, including Flam) you will find a lot of passengers (like me) who do things independently- such as vanish off doing the various walks around Flam (or up valley towards Myrdal), or have done their research and go to the other stave kirk near Flam at Undredal (for the goats and the cheese making as well as the Church), or use the public buses around Flam to other destinations. Even the excursion buses from British ships seem to do different and more interesting tours than the major international cruise brands- a comment not confined to Flam.
One small example of that would be the Aurland Shoe Factory- I don't think I've ever read on this forum about anyone going there.
One of the reasons I like walking the valley (apart from seeing it from a different perspective than the train) is being able to join supposedly sold out trains at will, and using the wayside stations which are there for the locals.
The British ships at least spread the load on the Flamsbana by some quite clever techniques, not just up and down the line on certain departures.

When I'm back in Flam I avoid the times when the Norway in a Nutshell in a day crowd are milling round the town, on their transfer between transport modes.

Posted by
18868 posts

The traditional Norway in a Nutshell starting in Bergen would be:

Train from Bergen to Voss

Bus from Voss to Gudvagen

Boat from Gudvagen to Flam

Train from Flam to Myrdal (Flam Railway.Flambasa)

Train from Myrdal to Oslo but in your case back to Bergen.

Of course you could take the train from Bergen to Myrdal and then do the above in reverse. Look to see what timings work best for you.

The highlights of Norway in a Nutshell are the train between Flam and Myrdal, the cruise between Flam and Gudvangen, and possibly the bus between Gudvagen and Voss although the previous routing was nicer.

Posted by
30604 posts

When I was planning my 2022 trip to that area, I spent some time looking at the Flamsbana, Naeroyfjord ferry and Gudvangen-Voss bus schedules. The individual links do not run terribly frequently. It seemed to me then--it obviously could have changed--the transportation links were more efficient if you traveled Myrdal-Flam-Gudvangen-Voss rather than in the opposite direction. Since you're doing the comparatively short loop from Bergen rather than traveling all the way to or from Oslo, some slack time will not mess up your day. However, you may have a preference as to where you are during that slack time. I think there are more organized-excursion opportunities (including RIB trips on the fjord and the bus excursion to the Stegastein viewpoint) from Flam than from Gudvangen. On the other hand, there's quite a good chance you'll be looking a humongous cruise ship docked at Flam if you spend your extra time there.

My first weather thought concerned rain--a very frequent situation in western Norway). Is it likelier to be rainy or foggy early or late in the day? I do not have the answer to that question, but perhaps reliable information exists somewhere on the internet.

Posted by
11650 posts

It turns out that in summer you can reach Gudvangen by 0900 for Option 2- the 0604 train Bergen to Voss, arrive 0718, then bus 450 bound for Aurland at 0725, arrive Gudvangen E16 at 0810, then a 436 metre walk, or 5 minutes.
This from the Skyss journey planner, to check your planned date.

I still think I would prefer the later train back to Bergen, given that the 1710 is the last connection for Oslo.

But that is quite useful to know about such an early connection, which should give a much quieter boat to Flam.

That also does the journey in the more "conventional" manner.

Posted by
11650 posts

Oh rats, the Skyss journey planner (which I never use- I use printed timetable books- but was looking for something else on Skyss, one of their well hidden web pages when I was in bed) turns out to be one of those sites which doesn't allow for the time difference. So a train or bus at 0704 Norwegian time shows to me as 0604 because I'm looking in the UK, so would show as 2204 if on Pacific Time).
That's really worth knowing.

There was the overnight bus from Aurland (starts in Oslo) to Bergen showing at 0332, I'd certainly want to know that is at 0432!!

Looking at Vy and Entur (my usual Norwegian go to) gives the correct times. so we are back to the first possible arrival in Gudvangen from Bergen being at 0910.

Posted by
3 posts

isn31c, thank you for this additional detail and confirmation about scheduled times. All very helpful.

Posted by
272 posts

I was in Bergen in the fall of 2024 and really wanted to do the cruise around Gudvangen/Flam. I am not a huge fan of trains, and all the changing didn't appeal to me. I understand that is the heart of the NIN, but I was looking for an alternative as I was also traveling alone.

So I found this amazing tour group (Fjordrive) that had the perfect full day package for me, roundtrip from Bergen. We left early in the morning on a small mini-bus. Stopped at the Tvindefossen waterfall. Made few stops on the way for restroom/coffee/pictures. Then to Gudvangen for the cruise (ticket included). We had some short free time in Flam to get some food. He picked us up in Flam and drove to the Stegastein Viewpoint which was an incredible view! Then drive back to Bergen. I was happy to enjoy the landscape from the mini-bus. You have the option to take the train back to Bergen, or to continue by train somewhere so he made a stop at the train station before heading back to Bergen.

I remember there was an add-on or different package if you wanted the Flam Railway as part of the package. Just sharing so you can get a sense for the itinerary, packages and cost. https://www.fjordrivetours.com/

I was so concerned about the rain. It was POURING in Bergen when we left. It was just misty at the waterfall and I could walk around a bit and remain dry. And then the sun came out during the cruise - beautiful blue skies. I couldn't believe my luck. This was mid-September. On the drive back to Bergen, rain again but with rainbows and I was happy to just be quiet on the drive (it was a long drive back but with stops for restroom). Most people napped on the drive back and driver/guided remained mostly silent. I was awake admiring the view and experiencing the long Norway tunnels!. We arrived early evening in Bergen.