I was planning on doing the traditional NiN route starting from Oslo and ending in Bergen. That is the one that from Gudvangen has travelers board a bus that takes you back up to rejoin the Oslo-Bergen train. I have heard many people saying the ferry to Bergen is the better experience.
Has anyone done both and has an opinion one way or the other?
I did the express boat from Flam to Bergen and really enjoyed it. I spent the entire ride on the aft deck admiring the view. It is a long boat ride to be fair so I realize it’s not for everyone.
My itinerary was a long day trip from Bergen (so I didn’t have my bags with me):
Bergen-Myrdal-Flam by train, boat to Gudvangen, bus back to Flam, and then express boat back to Bergen.
I'm from the NW, too and can offer my opinion about the boat option. However, my trip was in July (5 years ago) and also Bergen was my destination, so, a 1 way journey.
I mention the season because there was barely any snow along the train part- it was lovely, but underwhelming to me, spoiled by our NW scenery.
I opted for the boat from Flam because I read about the steepness of the bus option and I am easily car sick (and boat sick! but afraid of heights) hopefully you will hear from another Forum contributor about that!
The beginning was beautiful, but if memory serves it was almost 4-5 hours on the boat? Getting into Bergen about 10 pm, but plenty of "day"light still. I remember the last couple of hours going very slowly, once the fjord became wider, and without much to see. But it would be relaxing to read, etc and be protected from the weather in the indoor area if needed.
I am not sure how much this helps, but hopefully at least a little! I hope you will have a fantastic trip regardless of what you decide!
I don't think the express boat (the one linking Flam to Bergen) stops at Gudvangen, so I think you have to choose between the express boat and the Naeroyfjord ferry to Gudvangen + bus to Voss + train on to Bergen.
I have not taken the express boat, but both the Naeroyfjord ferry and the bus trip are very scenic; the train scenery west of Voss is (to me) not as nice as what you see east of Myrdal, so I don't consider that last train leg unmissable. Before my 2022 trip I read everything ever posted on this forum about Norway and at least two guide books. None of those sources said the express boat was more scenic than the classic NiN itinerary. The express boat seems to me a route one would take if staying in Balestrand was more important to a traveler than seeing the Naeroyfjord. It is not a choice I'd make otherwise, and I think the express boat takes longer than the more scenic traditional route.
We just did the express ferry to Bergen from flam last week… it IS long… but the first half hour and last half hour were scenic. I will say it was a very comfortable ferry… we had packed a picnic so we grabbed a table and had a nice meal, and napped a bit. If you go this route make sure you go up to the top aft sundeck to see the narrow part of the fjord as you leave flam
Thanks to you all for your insights.
I think i'll do the traditional route and cross my fingers I won't get car sick. I do better riding in the very front of the bus so hopefully I'll score one of those seats!
It's a pretty short bus ride. I get bus sick. We grabbed the seats right behind the driver so I could see out of the windscreen and I was fine.
Yes! I always try to sit behind/across from the driver so I get the whole view. fingers-crossed!
