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Is Voss too far to use as two-day launching point beyond the Nutshell Tour of the fjords?

I'm working a bit backwards from the fact that we (fit, active 50's couple) kinda want to stay at the Elva Hotel in Voss, where we're holding a two-night reservation at the end of June. The issue is that I'd like to get a little off the beaten path to check out some combination of staves, quiet towns, hikes and added scenery beyond the nutshell itinerary. We're not wedded to the hotel but wouldn't mind a little extra effort to both stay there and get to the north side of Sognefjord. Am I crazy?

We have flexibility as to whether we return to Bergen or continue on to Oslo directly. We could, say, do one of the two nutshell boat portions on our way north and then return via the other on one very long day?

But please tell me if it's just way too complicated/long/expensive to do two separate day-adventures on the north side of Sognefjord. And also feel free to question the value of the excursion, since it's supplemental to the nutshell experience.

I'm assuming it would be far easier to establish a base in Flam or skip a base altogether and just overnight, say in Solvorn and Balestrand one night each.

I'll use a separate query to dig in on maximizing those two days. Right now please feel free to focus on the Voss question. Thanks!

Posted by
27120 posts

So you're planning to rent a car?

I don't consider the express boat back to Bergen part of the Norway-in-a-Nutshell route. From the reports I've read, most of its time is spent traversing a wide part of the fjord where you get views like you're on a river. It doesn't seem worth it to me, but of course I haven't taken the trip myself. Simply taking the train back to Bergen from Voss would be both faster and cheaper. The trip to Bergen is much faster than the trip to Oslo, but there's some good scenery from the Myrdal-Oslo train (much better than what you see between Voss and Bergen).

In addition to the Naeroyfjord ferry between Flam and Gudvangen, there are RIB trips on the fjord--I think from Flam--that some folks have really liked. I haven't taken one of those either; I'm not a speed junkie, and I think they're pricey.

I was very glad I managed to see the Borgund stave church, which would have been much easier if I'd had a car. As it was, the bus was very late departing from Flam so I really only had time to walk through the small stave-church museum; there was no time to read any of the explanatory material. There's a small cafe in the same building. I believe Rick vouches for its soups.

In an earlier thread about rural Norway, someone made what I think was a perceptive comment: Views are different from roads than from boats down on the fjords. I didn't see any of the elevated views except from the Flamsbana and the Gudvangen-Voss bus. It would have been nice to do some driving in the area, but I'd have been a basket case if I'd had to back up to let a bus get around me.

As for the practicality of staying in Voss, I have no experience with that (or with driving anywhere in Europe), so I can only suggest that you use ViaMichelin.com to get driving-time estimates and research the cross-fjord ferry(ies) to be sure they run frequently enough not to impede your plans. I know the express boat (which connects Flam and Balestrand as well as going all the way to Bergen) runs only once or twice a day. That's probably the major reason why Rick's guidebook recommends staying in Balestrand only if you have at least two nights in the area.

At least two other posters have written about renting a car and doing some driving north of the Sognefjord. I think both were staying (at least part of the time) in Balestrand. I'm not sure how practical it is to stay south of the fjord (in Voss or elsewhere) and plan to explore north of the fjord. I have the feeling the process of getting across the fjord could chew up a lot of time. However, that is something I've never researched, and my supposition could be totally wrong.

I can't help feeling lodging availability may be drying up as I write this response. I'd go ahead and book something on the north side of the fjord if you think you might want to spend a night or two there. Just cancel whichever lodgings you decide you do not want as soon as you can so others have access to them.

Posted by
597 posts

If you do stay in Voss, I'd recommend the waterfall, Skjervsfossen.

We stayed at Vangsgaarden Gjestgiveri in Aurland, and I thought it was amazing! IMO, it's a better base than Voss.

We rode on a lot of ferries on our trip in September. They were easy to use, run continuously, and sell food.