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15 Day Norway "loop" in late August & early September - plan for alt routes?

Knowing how expensive Norway can be, I've been trying to research carefully and book tickets and lodging early for a 15 day trip in late August and early September, using local transit options wherever possible (trains, bus, boat, etc.).

We're planning to cover a lot of ground. I know that can make it more difficult if any issues arise, so I thought I'd post our overall itinerary below and see if there are alternatives I should keep in mind if there are weather issues or anything that might affect any leg of our "loop" across western & southern Norway.

Questions:

  • Has anyone flying from the US to Norway through Copenhagen had delays with passport control / EES?
  • Should I look into back-up transit options in case weather/other issues interrupt any step of our plans?
  • How much notice is common if trains or boats are not running / will have big delays?
  • Has anyone had local day trips with NorwaysBest or FjordTours cancelled due to low participation?

Example Posts:

I've booked all tickets (trains, boats, tours, etc.) directly with local providers because I saw issues others had with getting replacement tickets if they bought through bundling third party sites.

We used a 3 day Eurrail pass for days 4, 11, and 14 (which meant waiting a bit to get the last tickets booked on Entur).

Context:

I'm taking my mother on this trip before her 75th birthday to fulfill her lifelong wish to see the fjords - it will be a first time trip for both of us. She enjoys visiting historic locations and wants to see museums and living history areas in the cities. She grew up on a farm in in Colorado, so she also wants to see some of the rural farming areas. That's part of what drew her to the Setesdal valley in the south instead of going further north (which doesn't seem very common for US tourists to visit).

Mom picked the overall route and destinations and I've been handing the research, bookings, and other logistics.

As a librarian, I am always happy to do research and have found a lot of helpful resources through this forum!

Trip Itinerary: 15 days

Times noted where we have transit & tours booked

  • Day 0 - ORD to CPH (overnight flight from Chicago to Copenhagen)
  • Day 1 - CPH to OSL (with an 8+ hour layover, we hope to be able to visit Copehnhagen for several hours before returning to airport to arrive in Oslo by early evening)
    • Day 2 - Oslo
    • Day 3 - Oslo
  • Day 4 - 8:30am Oslo S train to Myrdal, 1:24pm Flåmsbana train
  • Day 5 - Sognefjord tours
    • 9:55am NorwaysBest cruise through Nærøyfjord
    • 1:30pm FjordTours bus to Borgund & Stegastein
  • Day 6 - More Sognefjord
    • 11:15am NorwaysBest bus tour to Undredal
    • 3:30pm Norled Flåm boat to Leikanger
  • Day 7 - 7:30am Norled Leikanger boat to Bergen
    • Day 8 - Bergen
  • Day 9 - 2:00pm Fjorldine Bergen boat to Stavanger
    • Day 10 - Stavanger - 12:00pm tour to Flor & Fjaere
  • Day 11 - 8:47am Oslo S Stavanger train to Kristiansand, pick up rental car by 1:30 at airport
    • Day 12 - Setesdal Valley
    • Day 13 - return car by 1:30 at Kristiansand airport
    • Day 14 - 7:51am Kristiansand F5 bus to Gjerstadt Oslo S train to Oslo by 12:25 pm
  • Day 15 11:55am OSL to CPH flight, 1:55 CPH to ORD flight

I've booked lodgings near docks or stations (especially for days with early morning tickets) to make sure we are early for our transit departures, both to get good seats (if not reserved) and so we don't miss any legs of our journey through local transit delays.

Posted by
12345 posts

There is no harm in having back up options in mind using entur.

For instance Day 4 the Oslo to Flam train- there is also a scheduled long distance bus from Oslo to Flam. So if the rail line is washed out/has a rock fall etc etc that may be an option.

Day 1- CPH to Oslo flight. If it's cancelled check on the train options- CPH to Gothenburg, change Gothenburg to Oslo.

Day 5- One of the Norways best boats docks overnight in Flam and one in Gudvangen. So if the Flam boat breaks down they normally put you on the competition- Lustrabbatane. If you have to get to Gudvangen early to do it in reverse I seem to remember a very early school bus (which takes the public) from Flam to Gudvangen. Research that just in case of need.
Flam to Borgund- there are two different public bus routes. One gives minimal time there, the other too much, but is a back up- see entur

The norled boats- the timetable tells you which 4 boats run the service, with ship's phone numbers. You can track the boats on various websites such as vessel finder. So tonight I can see that the 0730 tomorrow from Leikanger (the MS Tyrving) is safely alongside at Sogndal. If she breaks down tomorrow you can then call the ship and see if they can put you on the 1218 to Aurland (for bus to Bergen) or the afternoon 1630 to Bergen. You will also be able to see her leave Sogndal at 0650.
If the Flam to Leikanger breaks down then take the 1830 bus from Flam, change at Sogndal. Through vessel finder you will know hours beforehand if there is an issue, so can book the bus soonest. If need be call the ship for advice.

Likewise Day 9- Fjord line are good at updating any delays on their website, but you can also use vessel finder to track the ship on the way from Denmark.
If need be there are several direct double deck buses a day from Bergen to Stavanger, but Fjord line would more than likely provide land transport to Stavanger, Egersund or Kristiansand.

If push came to shove train via Bergen (overnight if needs be Oslo to Stavanger) or Norwegian Air Shuttle, SAS and Wideroe all run puddle hopper flights between Bergen and Stavanger.
Wideroe also fly from Stavanger to Sandefjord (Oslo Torp) for trains back to Kristiansand- in that type of emergency maybe/hopefully rent the car at Sandefjord instead.

That's what I would do, have a suite of back up plans in my back pocket which I am hugely unlikely to need, but can pull straight out if the worst happens. The alternatives may be sub-optimal but if they get you there, that is all that matters.

Posted by
172 posts

I recently returned from a solo trip doing Norway in a Nutshell as the core middle section of the itinerary.
Great you are spending time in Flam. Where are you staying?
I did EES in and out of Copenhagen. Line getting in (doing photo, fingerprints and passport scan) took about 20 minutes BUT I got off of my flight early on, and large line behind me as I was going through.
Leaving, very confusing as mass of people not sure where to be, which line, etc. Staff came by and gave some direction. Then, as it was taken a very long time, staff came through and pulled people to front based on boarding time of their flights. So all worked out, but use restrooms BEFORE getting into the lines! As others have states, this is fluid depending on what airport, if equipment working, time of day, etc.

And I have to mention, as you are a librarian - IF you have time the Royal Library tour was fantastic!

Posted by
14 posts

Thank you!!

We are staying at Lunde camping in Aurland, so I got some helpful tips on bus options between Aurland and Flåm in this post earlier:
https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/norway/sognefjord-in-late-august-public-transit-options-between-flam-aurland-etc

I definitely have libraries bookmarked all over and since I have a supervisor who was recently in Oslo for an international librarians conference, I have gotten some recommendations from her as well.

It's very helpful to have those tips about the airport passport lines & processing, I know it can vary a lot by day and time (Chicago airports are definitely the same way) but I was hoping it wasn't something I should worry about upsetting our layover plans, as long as we plan for extra time in case lines are longer.

Posted by
172 posts

Emily - next trip include Helsinki and get to the Oodi Library - absolutely incredible! You can borrow guitars, etc and they have a sound recording studio.

And I stayed one night in Aurland, two nights in Flam. Loved both! There is Fjord Farm in Flam when you are there, and the Flamsbana Museum for your mom! It is really interesting.

Posted by
14 posts

Thanks for the extra tips! One of my friends says it's always essential to leave something for the next trip, so you don't feel too disappointed if you can't fit everything in.

I didn't book anything specific that first afternoon in Sognefjord. Since we will arrive in Flåm on a day without any cruises in town, I have a couple different options in mind depending on weather, including the Flåm Farm and local hikes. Or we can just take the bus to Aurland to check into our lodgings and poke around there, pick up groceries at the local market, etc.

We figured the train museum would be an easy option the first day or we could go with crowds present on other days between trips.

I wasn't sure about trying to fit in a visit to Otternes, (between Flåm and Aurland) since it's a bit longer hike and would have to factor in luggage the days we arrive and leave. Plus I wasn't sure about bus options on weekends.

Posted by
16 posts

A layover is Copenhagen is very nice. The local metro is just next to the airport. You would probable have time to take a quick harbor/canal boat tour. We did this last year and loved it. Very easy to get to/from the airport to Nyhavn.

Posted by
47 posts

Emily, I'm planning a trip to Norway for next summer. You posted that there won't be a cruise ship in port when you're in Flam. What resource did you use to find out this information? I'd love to know in advance when ships will be in various ports, so I can plan to get ahead of the crowds or go somewhere else when it will be very crowded. Thanks!

Posted by
14 posts

Here's the website where you can check which boats are docking at the Flam port each day:
- https://www.flamport.no/arrival-list

I'm glad to hear other people enjoyed a layover in Copenhagen - trying to adjust my sleep schedule now so that I won't be totally jet lagged that day next week!

Posted by
14 posts

I'm glad I asked about this earlier, now that I'm seeing information on Reddit and travel blogs about flights canceled and the Oslo airport being shut down Sunday due to an air traffic controller strike.

My SAS app just says 'Flights may be delayed or canceled due to an ongoing strike' without any details for our flight yet, but I was reading through their cancellation policies pretty carefully and looking up possible train routes from Copenhagen to Oslo (which might get us to Oslo Central station around the same time, given a longer layover). Not sure what would happen with our checked bag, though.

Past forum posts here note a possible overnight ferry, but I couldn't find a schedule or costs online - it looks like the company might have sold that route, when I searched on the website others linked to in the past.

Posted by
14 posts

I'm glad I asked about this early now that I'm seeing information about the Oslo airport being closed on Sunday and flights being canceled due to the air traffic controller strike!

So far my SAS app says 'possible delays or cancellations due to an ongoing strike' without any info for my specific tickets. I'm reading their cancellation policies carefully and wondering if I would have the option with our long layover of switching to a train route to Oslo and continuing the trip on time. Not sure what would happen with my checked bag, in that case.

Here's where I was looking up possible train routes:
- https://www.seat61.com/trains-and-routes/copenhagen-to-oslo-by-train.htm

That site and other past posts in this forum have mentioned an overnight ferry option too, but I couldn't find a link that listed any current schedule or ticket prices. Searching the websites that were linked previously gave me a post that mentions routes being sold off.

Posted by
12345 posts

This is the link for the current Copenhagen to Oslo ferry route- https://www.gonordiccruiseline.com/

It will not be cheap booking at short notice, in summer, and as a one way (as opposed to mini cruise) passenger.

Note that Vy and Snalltaget are also now running direct Malmo to Oslo trains, so you don't always have to change at Gothenburg (use local trains CPH- Malmo)-- they don't seem to be mentioned by the Man in Seat 61.
Vy at 1532 daily, arrive Oslo 2144,
Snalltaget at 0638, arrive Oslo 1316 (the connection from Copenhagen is at 0529).

Book either train as a through ticket CPH to Oslo with Vy - https://www.vy.no/en

Posted by
14 posts

Wonderful, thank you for these! Not sure if I will need it or if there are options that SAS would cover if they cancel just one leg of our flight, but I would rather have options then be stuck changing up our whole itinerary at the last minute!

Posted by
4146 posts

I just wanted to comment that we stayed 3 nights in Stavanger and loved it! The Flor & Fjaere was a real highlight for us. I stumbled upon that in my planning and was surprised that I had not seen it mentioned more often. Enjoy!

Posted by
14 posts

I discovered it through posts in this forum, perhaps yours? Its one of the surprise things my mom is looking forward to the most, I think - she keeps bringing it up with everyone who asks about our trip.

Posted by
4146 posts

Emily--It probably was me:) As I said, it was a highlight for my daughter and I. The history of it is fascinating. I hope you come back and let us know how the trip goes.