We are renting a car for a 15 day Sicily trip. However after spending days/hours reading about and trying to deal with not ringing up numerous ZTL violations, I'm sorry we booked the trip. Unlike mainland Italy (when we took a RS tour) , we want to drive in Sicily. We were not able to book a RS tour in Sicily this time.
I am really amazed that the majority of CREDIBLE websites do not even discuss, or even seem interested or knowledgeable of all the ZTL tourist issues. E.G. Neither the Italian tourist board people I spoke with in Italy and NY, and the rental car companies knew what I was talking about. Maybe there is someone at these places that is interested and cares. but, I never found them. And, on Hotel and AirBnb, -nada ! This whole ZTL nonsense just looks like a cynical way to soak tourists.The only thing not making this a deal breaker is all the money I would lose now.