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Your favorite town in Dolomites for x-c ski week Feb 2022?

I am looking for a nice town to visit for some cross-country skiing and winter Alpine town time in mid-February 2022. It’s our daughter’s birthday and when we lived in Canada, we always took her skiing that week. However, I busted my ankle this fall and will likely only be doing a 5 km shuffle on preferably flat trails. My husband thinks he might be past skiing with his bum knees. (A side lament: It sucks getting old, we used to ski every weekend for hours.)

So…we need a place in a town where we can enjoy ourselves on foot, but near a Nordic ski area. We don’t want a downhill skier party town, something quieter by choice.

We’ve never been to the Dolomites. All suggestions for such a town are most welcome.

Posted by
1034 posts

Wow the trails look fabulous. Canazei seems to be the closest town. Has anyone been there? Other towns very nearby? Ortisei is not too far I guess.

Posted by
6918 posts

Ortisei is in a different valley, so not an option. Canazei is very nice but quite expensive; you can also stay further down the valley in Campitello di Fassa or even lower - although I am not sure how far down the valley the cross country trail network extends, as I only do downhill.

Posted by
20192 posts

I have stayed in Canazei for downhill skiing, as it was connected to the Sellaronda ski circuit. I would not call it a wild ski party town, although it did have a discotheque. Campitello di Fassa is nearby, and Moena is further down valley. Ortisei is over the Sella Pass. There is a road which is normally open, or lift served by downhill skis.

Posted by
16363 posts

Alpe di Siusi offers wonderful XC skiing on fairly flat terrain, with 80 km of trails and beautiful views. There are nice hotels up there, but no actual town. You could probably get to Ortesei by lift or to Castelrotto by bus for a town visit, but IO don’t know how these work in the winter time.

A friend of mine used to lead group tours for Nordic skiing in the Dolomites for our local alpine club (Seattle Mountaineers) and I know one place they used as a base is Dobbiaco.

Posted by
1034 posts

Thank you Lola, both look like good bases. I’m looking at Dobbiaco more closely now, and the tourist board is sending me a packet of info and offers. Can’t wait!

Posted by
6918 posts

Indeed, the northern part of the range around Toblach/Dobbiaco and nearby San Candido (which is quite charming!) has the largest network of interconnected XC trails in the region - and quite possibly the Alps. You can ski all the way to Cortina, Braies lake, etc.!

Posted by
6434 posts

Toblach (since most of the inhabitants are German speaking, using the German name feels more appropriate) is a great choice. It is one of those really famous cross country skiing towns that often sees world cup races, including Tour de Ski.

Posted by
1034 posts

Yes, thank you all, Toblach/Dobbiaco is the winner for sure. We've found some very nice-looking apartments and the stadium and extensive trail system should certainly keep us from missing the Canmore, Alberta trail system we came from.

I only wish I could ski all the way to Cortina - unfortunately, after decades of x-c ski experience, I'm going to be shuffling along without lifting my feet this year like a rank newbie due to the recently busted ankle. But it will be an amazing trip. Thanks for your ideas.

Posted by
1034 posts

Hello all you Dolomiti fans. We’re currently in Toblach/Dobbiaco for our first trip up here and it is as gorgeous as you all have reported. We’re staying in a large, comfortable apartment of a villa from the 1870s in which Gustav Mahler once spent a summer composing. I am thrilled to be eating German/Austrian foods again (hands down the best bakers, they are). The only disappointment is the snow - last snowfall was January 6 and there isn’t much in the forecast for our time here. We’re cross-country skiers, not downhill, so it’s sad that the trails are a little thin and the tracks are filled with pine needles. But there are lots of ways to have fun here. Also there is a World Cup Nordic race next weekend, for which we saw the snow stockpiles, so hopefully when that’s done they can refill some of the trails with man made snow.

I found the drive harder than expected. We started in Lugano and came through Milan and then up the A4, which is a well-maintained but very busy toll road that goes through to Austria. The lanes were fine but no shoulders, the right lane full of cargo trucks and the left lane full of impatient drivers. We made it halfway before sunset, so the last few hours’ drive was in the dark. I recommend making the trip in daylight. There is a train station and lots of bus service, but we’re traveling with a very full car of stuff for our upcoming 5 months in Monza, definitely not Rick Steves style.

I’ll write a trip report afterwards, but I just wanted to thank those who answered my earlier question about good locations. This area will definitely be on our list to revisit.

Posted by
6918 posts

Glad that you're having a good time! It is indeed a long way from Lugano on some busy roads, but it looks like it is worth it.
As for the snow, the Dolomites are not known for dependable snowfall. I hope that you get plenty of sunny days to make up for that!

By the way, since you are spending 5 months in Monza, you will be 2.5 hours away from the Engadine, which offers more world-class cross country skiing with more reliable snow than the Dolomites and very different scenery.
Plenty of small skiing areas near Bergamo and Tirano for day trips, too.